Hi all
Ive a 94 xantia non turbo diesel, have owned it 4 weeks and am slowly (with the help of here) fixing the numerous problems it has.
The brakes were shot and pulsing like a good un so last weekend I put new disks and pads in and it felt much better. I have only driven 10 or so miles since then.
The other problem was a constant ticking from under the bonnet, so, armed with a printout of a thread off here, I replaced the accumulator sphere last night. This morning, the driveway had turned a nice shade of green (anyone know if it stains or if it will wash off?). Further inspection found the offending fairy liquid comming out of the sphere, it hadnt sealed properly, so off it came again, mating surfaces cleaned again and back on it went. It doesnt seem to be leaking now but Im keeping a close eye on it.
Tonight, Ive noticed the back brakes sticking a little. If I pull away from stop the back sinks and the rear brakes hold for a milli second before releasing, same on hills, the handbrake isnt needed, the rear brakes will hold the car till I pull away.
I havent noticed this before, it only seems to have occured since the sphere was fitted (or maybe last weekend when the front disks were changed).
Is it just that my back brakes are beginning to seize or is there a valve on the hydraulics which may have got upset with my tinkering? Is a hydraflush advisable? Oh, and anyone able to tell me where the LHM filters are?
All help greatly appeciated
Rob
Changing spheres and leaks (oh, and brakes)
-
AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Well Rob -
It's quite a project you have invested in [:D]
The greenblood leakage from the acc sphere is most likely cured now, but notice that when replacing spheres, the (new) O-ring seal must be greased, either with LHM or (better) with universal mineral based grease.
Spheres are allways ONLY tightened by hand like an oil filter.
There are no valves in the rear brakes circuit except the brake doseur (pedal) valve.
If ABS is fitted, this will BLOCK the hydraulic pressure to the brakes, NEVER cause them to bind.
If the rear brakes tend to bind, first give the calipers a good service overhaul. The pistons are prone to seize, since the rear brakes rarely are called out for real hard work.
Since you allready removed the calipers (at least ½ of them [;)]), you're aware of the metallic valence corrosion problem.
It's quite possible to file down (squarely) the mating surface of the inner half caliper, and then make yourself a spacer of alu sheet, to compensate. On reassembly, all mating surfaces should then have a cover of antirust.
The problems you allready have seen on this car, indicates general service left overs. A hydraflush cure with Hydraquinage, together with a thorough cleaning of the LHM reservoir, will evidently clear up most hydraulic problems you have. The filters are found inside the reservoir, attached to the plastic cover "manifold". Clean with petrol & soft brush.
The filters MUST be in perfect condition. Any holes/cracks in filters will give you lots of problems. New filters are available at reasonable cost.
Let the hydraflush do it's job for at least 2500 miles, and have patience. It does do magic wonders, but NOT within 100 miles.
On completion, clean reservoir & filter once more, before replacing to fresh LHM.
Best way to replace the LHM/hydraflush, is to set car in lowest height, then manually empty the reservoir & replace with the new liquid. Have the car in highest height (which gives constant pressure to brake valves rear circuit feed), then bleed out the oil from all brake calipers, untill the colour of new liquid is clearly seen.
[^] Good luck with the Xantip... Xantia [^]
It's quite a project you have invested in [:D]
The greenblood leakage from the acc sphere is most likely cured now, but notice that when replacing spheres, the (new) O-ring seal must be greased, either with LHM or (better) with universal mineral based grease.
Spheres are allways ONLY tightened by hand like an oil filter.
There are no valves in the rear brakes circuit except the brake doseur (pedal) valve.
If ABS is fitted, this will BLOCK the hydraulic pressure to the brakes, NEVER cause them to bind.
If the rear brakes tend to bind, first give the calipers a good service overhaul. The pistons are prone to seize, since the rear brakes rarely are called out for real hard work.
Since you allready removed the calipers (at least ½ of them [;)]), you're aware of the metallic valence corrosion problem.
It's quite possible to file down (squarely) the mating surface of the inner half caliper, and then make yourself a spacer of alu sheet, to compensate. On reassembly, all mating surfaces should then have a cover of antirust.
The problems you allready have seen on this car, indicates general service left overs. A hydraflush cure with Hydraquinage, together with a thorough cleaning of the LHM reservoir, will evidently clear up most hydraulic problems you have. The filters are found inside the reservoir, attached to the plastic cover "manifold". Clean with petrol & soft brush.
The filters MUST be in perfect condition. Any holes/cracks in filters will give you lots of problems. New filters are available at reasonable cost.
Let the hydraflush do it's job for at least 2500 miles, and have patience. It does do magic wonders, but NOT within 100 miles.
On completion, clean reservoir & filter once more, before replacing to fresh LHM.
Best way to replace the LHM/hydraflush, is to set car in lowest height, then manually empty the reservoir & replace with the new liquid. Have the car in highest height (which gives constant pressure to brake valves rear circuit feed), then bleed out the oil from all brake calipers, untill the colour of new liquid is clearly seen.
[^] Good luck with the Xantip... Xantia [^]