Xantia Aircon Valves

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Paxman Power
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Xantia Aircon Valves

Post by Paxman Power »

1996 Xantia 1.9 TD LX.

Can anyone advise where the aircon recharge valve(s) is/are? If there are two, which is the LP one?

Tried the DIY can recharge on my Scenic today and it's made a big difference. Thought I'd try the same on the Xantia, but can't see any valves.

All help gratefully received!

D.
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Post by DickieG »

They are both very close to the pump itself, accessed from below.
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Post by Paxman Power »

Cheers! :D
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Post by Paxman Power »

1996 Xantia 1.9 TD LX.

So I've found the recharge valves. Connected the guage up to the LP one and it read 35 psi with the engine running and aircon on, which according to the instructions is within the "filled" zone. So no leak there it seems. With the aircon on both cooling fans run at full speed, the compressor clutch kicks in after a few seconds and the compressor runs. Looking in the sight glass on top of the condenser I can see what appears to be a flowing liquid - a clear liquid I guess. However the there is no cooling effect. The LP pipe does seem to get slightly cooler right at the back of the compressor, but only negligibly so.

Does it just need more refrigerant?

Also found that the compressor wasn't running at first with the engine on tick-over. When it was revved the clutch kicked in and the compressor ran, but only until the revs dropped again and the clutch dropped out. A minor anti-clockwise adjustment of the thing on top of the fuel pump (potentiometer?) solved this problem. I tinkered with this potentiometer thingy when I first got the car about six years ago trying to get the idle speed down - before I knew about electrovalves and vacuum pipes!
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Post by Clogzz »

The fans aren’t meant to go to high speed when the air conditioning is turned on.
If there’s overpressure, the clutch must release the compressor, and only then should the fans go to high speed.

Your symptoms are more like low pressure, except for the fan speed.
If you disconnect the plug on the pressure sensor, the clutch can’t kick in, but the fans still should spin at low speed with the aircon turned on.
alan s has many very good posts on the subject in the aircon forum, but I can’t find a topical one now.

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Post by DoubleChevron »

What does the high side read ?? You have a guage and manifold set right ?? Don't just screw a disposable can to the high sound unless you like nice exploding noises :shock: :lol:

seeya,
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Post by Paxman Power »

Two things I should perhaps clarify:

Firstly, I suspect the fans aren't at full speed, but half speed. They don't make any great whooshing noise. I will check this tonight by removing the brown sensor connector - I believe this should make the fans run at full speed?

Secondly, I don't have a manifold set - just the can (empty after filling up my Scenic) with guage attachment. Connected that to the LP port and it read approximately 30 psi. I won't connect it to the HP side!

I've had the car for almost 8 years and it's never been regassed in that time.
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Post by Xaccers »

The cans should not be able to fit the HP side anyway as it's a different size.
If it's not been done for 8 years, it might be worth taking it to a proper garage (or Kwik Fit - see what I did there? ;) )
I took mine to Kwik Fit and they had to swap out the oil in their machine, so it might be that the lube included in the DIY cans isn't suitable anyway.
Best £45 I spent as I now have nice cold air.
When they tested the vent temp before the refill, it started at 18C and went up to 22C with the A/C on!
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Post by DoubleChevron »

18 degrees from the vents before it was repaired.... Who needs air-con when it's bloody freezing outside :lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously, is the compressor starting ?? If not the system may nearlly be completelly discharged. (ie: if you hooked up a proper guage/manifold you would find both side say "35" and the compressor will not work).

The pressure switch pictured above will stop the compressor (to prevent damage) if the refrigerant level is low.

If the compressor isn't coming on, try adding some gas until it comes on... If you can't get any gas in there, short the pressure switch.

You will probably find you have a leak somewhere, check all of the fittings, hoses and 'O'rings for traces of oil. My XM's evaporator was leaky, it took a staggering 20hours (easily) to change the sh!t of a thing. What a stupid design :( To put the requirement for air-con out here into perspective a couple of months ago it was 47degrees C in the shade :shock: :shock:

If you find a leak anywhere, you will need to fix it, if you don't have a vacuum pump, you can't do this yourself. if there is no gas in there, or the system needs to be opened, you MUST vacuum it down to remove any trace of moisture in there (and change the Receiver dryer).

seeya,
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'96 Big BX 2.1TD exclusive slugomatic (aka XM)
'85 CX2500 GTi Turbo Series II (whoo hooo)
'96 Xantia VSX slugomatic (sold !!)
and of course, lots of old Citroens, slowly rusting away in pieces ;)
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Post by Paxman Power »

I'm pretty sure it's just lack of refrigerant.

Compressor clicks in a few seconds after the switch is pressed, as it should do. HP pipe in the immediate vicinity of the compressor seems to get slightly cooler after a few seconds. Rad fans run (at what I suspect is normal speed and not high speed as I first stated).

Presumably if the compressor is running then any refrigerant in the system has to circulate and hence it should cool? Is there any way that this can be prevented - there's no by-pass system fitted is there?

Only thing I need to check is the operation of the cabin temp sensor/fan.

Given that Halfrauds want £40 for the can and that Kwik-Poo are only charging £45 for what appears to be a far more thorough recharge I think I might give them a try. Will post my results.
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Post by Xaccers »

The regassing machine Kwik use is automated, and prompts the user to check certain things such as the oil type used (make sure you ask them to confirm they're using the right oil).
It runs through a leak test too.
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Post by DoubleChevron »

The problem you have out here is no-one will touch the old R12 systems without converting it to R134a (due to the fact none of there equipment is setup for the old oil, and they only stock R134a).

The oils are not at all compatible. I have converted my cars to run hydrocarbon refrigerants that closely emulate R12 (so are far more efficient, cool better and leak less readily than R134a). Also i can buy it without a refrigeration license cheaply. We can't buy R134a in Australia without a refrigeration license.

If your car is still running R12 gas/oil. I'd suggest just sticking a hydrocarbon or "green" refrigeration in there, as it'll work with both types of gas, and both types of oil :)

seeya,
Shane L.
'96 Big BX 2.1TD exclusive slugomatic (aka XM)
'85 CX2500 GTi Turbo Series II (whoo hooo)
'96 Xantia VSX slugomatic (sold !!)
and of course, lots of old Citroens, slowly rusting away in pieces ;)
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