Xantia brake renewal advice please

[timbo101]

Hello all,

Sorry to ask for yet more advice but here goes.
We are off to france in two weeks and my brakes could do with renewing before we go.
I have to replace the following :
Front discs and pads and rear pads.

I have bought all the parts already and just need to fit them. I got a quoate for the labour from a local garage and to be honest it seems a lot of money for what seems to me to be not to big a job.
I have done pad replacement before on a vauxhall and it was pretty easy but have never done the discs as well.
Can someone please give me any helpful advice or tips etc so i dont encounter any major problems.
I have never done any work on the xantia myself before so is there any specific notes I need to know about jacking up the car and do i have to do anything with the suspension etc.
Also I dont have a trolley jack at the moment and was wondering if I could just set the suspension to max and then place axle stands underneath and lower it to min or is this bad practice.
Any information would be greatly received and I am hoping its not too difficult as would love to have a go myself if possible but want to be safe.

Many thanks in advance........Tim

[citroenxm]

Pretty much straight forward... Theres no need to worry about suspension settings, just jack the car from normal height remove the wheel...

A 2.1TD Estate should have the LARGER Bosch setup, Ive NOT done one of these setups yet, just the smaller Bendix units on the hatches..

HOWEVER, what will be the same is the fact that the Caliper PISTONS will NEED WINDING back in - the fronts DO NOT just push in...

BOTH side wind in CLOCK WISE.. its a long job, but possible with a screw driver or flat edge device... just keep wining the piston ALL the way back in, it may look like the piston is going no where, but it will start moving back in slowly!

Of course, release handbrake, unhook the handbrake cable from the caliper, use a screw drive to lever the arm, and feed the brake cable OUT FROM the caliper! (Thanks davetherave for the reminder :-p)

Remove the caliper with the Two Torx bolts, support it to prevent strain on the hydraulic feed hose, remove or drill out the two small torx screws holding the disks on and CLOUT them off!!! THEY MAY BE VERY TIGHT ON OR SIEZED ON, but a good clout should free them!

I dont think the car will go high enough for a stand to go under, so jack her up THEN put the stand under...

Good luck!

Rgds
Paul

[davetherave]

Ok i did this myself about a month or so ago and ill list the bits to watch out for. ( A haynes manual would also be very usefull!)

To remove the caliper you will need a pin punch or similar device and a large hammer.

It is highly likely (as happend on mine) that the disc retaining bolt may shear when you try to remove it, there is a spare hole in which you could retain the disc, however on mine this had sheared too.
(I ended up using a very big hammer drill to get the head of the bolt off (this is not recommended)
If this happens, dont worry about it as the four bolts that reatin the wheel will suffice.

The rest is fairly simple an obvious one- to remove the caliper you will need to release the hand brake to slacken the cable.(chock the car though)!

[MikeT]

Hi Tim, I'm in Christchurch if you want some assistance and a trolley jack or another pair of stands, tools etc. I'd be glad to help but I suspect you'll do a good job on your own. My advice - Pre-soak the brake nipples with plusgas followed by light machine oil like 3in1. Ditto for any other fasteners that look corroded.

[timbo101]

Hi Mike T,

Thank you very much for the kind offer of some help, I did try sending you a PM but I cant see it in my sent folder so dont think it has gone through.
Because I am slightly nervous of undertaking this on my own could I possibly take you up on the offer of some help if that is at all possible please. I would do all the Donkey work but could do with a spare pair of hands and a more experienced eye.
I will happily pay you for your time just let me know.
If you were prepared to help me with this (Big ask I know) would you be interested in helping me this coming weekend but please dont worry if you cant do it as like I said its a lot to ask.

Very many thanks...Tim

[admiral51]

Hi Tim
I have not got round to doing my fronts yet but i bought the tool from GSF to wind the calipers on the front back in (part no 98741)
As for the rears the pistons just push back in but loosen the bleed nipple first and it makes life a lot easier

Any one got any ideas as to the torx size of the front calpier bolts

Colin

[CitroJim]

Any one got any ideas as to the torx size of the front calpier bolts

T55 I think Colin. I may be wrong as it's been a long time since I've changed front pads. I'm very easy on brake pads and they seem to last for ever on my cars.

Must be my driving

[MikeT]

Hi Tim, PM replied.

[RichardW]

As noted, 2.1TD should have the larger Bosch brakes - these do not have a pin at the bottom, but a bolt instead, which makes life easier. Just make sure you engage the tagged bracket properly when putting it back, otherwise it bends and is a git to straighten out again

T55 for the caliper bolts - they are tight usually.

Easy way to get the discs off - jack up and remove the wheels then remove the retaining screws first and see if the disc comes loose. If not, start the engine and engage drive to the wheels the gently apply the brake. One will come free (probably with a bang!). Stop, fit 2 wheel bolts to the side that has come free, then do the same again, other side should come free. Proceed to change the pads. Only do this if the car is securely supported, and do it gently!

Rear calipers are likely to be suffering corrosion and be twisted. Need removing and the corrosion cleaning off - which can result in the bolts snapping, so don't start it late in the day, and think of a rectification plan first (mate with welder!).

[Old-Guy]

Hi Tim

Re winding back pistons on front calipers: I used a really old blunt file the first time I changed my front pads. You have to push the pistons back as you wind clockwise - don't over-do it, the pistons can be slightly proud of the caliper face.

I did my front discs a couple of months ago - didn't have any problems; after a soak with Plus-Gas, the disc retaining screws came out easily with a cheap impact screwdriver.

I use a piece of wire coat-hanger to hang up the front calipers - double over about 3" at one end and bend into a hook to go in the handy square hole in the inner wing without damaging the paint; cut to suitable length and bend a second hook.