corsehf wrote:cachaciero,
is it possible to post or PM me any instructions or pics so that i can check my diaphragm personally. In the mean time, i will do that other check that you mentioned.
Hi corsehf
Hope that this helps
INTRO
The proper way of checking this system really requires a vac gauge and ideally a vac pump. Gunson do a vac gauge for about £20.00 guess this would probably do ideally you need a calibration in Milli Bars saves having to do conversions.
Getting the swirl valve diaphragm out just to look at it is a pig of a job and dismantling the swirl valve actuator to look at the diaphragm risks breaking the actuator as it is not designed to be dismantled.
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
The turbo turbine is modulated by a diaphragm type actuator mounted on the Turbo,
this diaphragm connects to a piece of hard plastic pipe using a silicon rubber coupler. The plastic pipe runs upstairs to the turbo electrovalve (RH side looking in from front under the scuttle panel adjacent to suspension sphere ) where another rubber coupler connects it to the valve. Other side of this EV runs to the vacuum reservoir which is under the brake servo.
This vacuum reservoir is common to the swirl valve system and is fed from the engine driven vac pump through a small restrictor. There is a plastic pipe which runs forward from the reservoir to the swirl valve electrovalve (EV) to which it is connected on the top by a piece of curved silicon tubing. The supply from the side of the EV runs back to the swirl valve actuator hidden underneath the air ducting and the EGR pipe.
TEST PROCEDURE
To test the system a vac gauge needs to be connected into the system, I used some small plastic hose couplers purchased from B&Q and piece of suitable sized plastic pipe.
Removing the coupler on the TOP of the swirl valve EV connect a T piece into the silicon elbow a short length of pipe from the T piece to the top of the EV the other arm of the T piece is connected to the vac gauge.
Run the engine with a good system the gauge should fall to about 200 mBars absolute at idle anything more than this and there is a leak.
Lets assume a vacuum of 800mBars i.e a leaking system, disconnect the plastic pipe from the top of the EV and place your finger over the open end of the pipe if the vacuum now increases to 200 mBars then this would indicate a leak between the EV and the swirl diaphragm and /or the diaphragm itself.
To eliminate a problem with the EV connect the pipe that comes out of the side of the EV directly to the piece of plastic piping attached to the T piece and check the vac levels again if values still high then the only thing left is the swirl diaphragm AND the rubber connector that connects the plastic pipe to it.
I have assumed that the plastic pipe is relatively bulet proof and that it is unlikely that this will leak.
If this does not change the vacuum then the leak is likely on the turbo side, again the same procedure can be used breaking the system down at the T urbo EV and inserting the T piece and vac gauge.
With good vacuum the operation of the Turbo diaphragm may be checked by linking the vac input to the EV directly to the output to the turbo doing this you can observe the operation of the actuator from underneath the car.
If it is shown that the system is leaking then the first thing to check are the associated rubber pipe couplers. There is quite a bit of documented evidence that splitting of these rubber joiners is quite common so it pays to check them carefully. In my case not only did I have five holes in the swirl diaphragm but the rubber connector to the assembly was also split.
I would suggest that a couple or three of these rubber couplers are on hand before starting the exercise.
Changing the swirl valve diaphragm.
This requires removal of thefollowing:-
1 air filter box (top). (To gain access )
2 EGR pipe approx 1 inch dia stainles pipe that runs from back of engine to inlet manifold.
3 Breather pipe1 inch approx that goes into the head.
4 metal bracket that support pipe work (EGR pipe) (will lose a little water when removing this)
This will give access to the three TorqX screws that hold the swirl actuator in, they can be reached with a T20 bit on a long extension bar. Diaphragm re-moved and re-fitted from underneath. Car needs to be on ramps or axle stands.
Materials
1 Jubilee clip to replace clip on breather system.
2 Manacle clamp for coupling EGR pipe to water jacket at back of engine this is a service part as the old clamp will not be re-usable.
3 Diaphragm.
4 Suggest a couple of spare screws as they are quite easy to lose.
Cachaciero
) and skinning my hands trying to reach it from the top I am a little stumped. I suspect that I am going to have to strip a lot of stuff of the engine to get at it but before I start this it would be nice to know what exactly from someone who has the T shirt 