Hi
I want to run a wire from the battery(with inline fuse)into the car,
where is the easiest place to go through the bulkhead /route the wire
thanks Darragh
Wire from engine to dash
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steelcityuk
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Thermonuclear
- Posts: 14
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Hi Darragh,
I'm guessing your still trying to fix your lights! I've had the same snag on a 1998 S2 Xantia 1.8 16V last December, and I've done quite a bit of work on it.
First, the circuit. Power runs from the battery to the 4 heavy fuses in the engine compartment. Fues 'D' supplies power for all the lighting, as well as for other services such as the rad cooling fan, horn, fuel and water instruments, radio, centeral locking and electric windows. I assume that only your lights are affected, if so you are in the same boat as myself.
Using the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, power leaves fuse 'D' on a single wire marked 'BMF 4'. This wire runs forward from the fuse box, around and under the radiator, and into the offside wing and into the car through a connector.
I have not been able to access this connector from either side of the bulkhead, if anyone knows how, please let me know.
Now this 'BMF 4' wire seems to split into six sepreate wires labeled 'BMF 4A' to 'BMF 4F'. I cannot find any referance to a 'BMF 4A' in the wiring diagrams, but I have traced the rest.
'BMF 4B' runs into the car fuse box where it supplies power to fuses F7, F14, F25 & F27. These fuses have nothing to do with the lights, but they are supplied from the same wire, and so if you hava a working horn, radio, instruments, etc. then you have power into the car.
'BMF 4C' to 'BMF 4F' supply lighting power to the lighting switch on the steering column. From memory at least some, if not all, of these wires are pink, but the numbers are printed on the wires so you can identify each wire.
'BMF 4C' supplies power to flash the main beam.
'BMF 4D' supplies power to the dip beam.
'BMF 4E' supplies power to the side lights, instrument lights, and fog lights if fitted.
'BMF 4F' supplies power to the main beam.
The important thing is that these four wires should all be joined together, and all have a +12V supply for the lights to work.
In my case I found that, taking the connectors off the light switch stalk that the wires 'BMF 4C' to 'BMF 4F' (pins 1A and 2B on connector 9V NR, and pins 1B and 2B on connector 5V BA) did show continuity with a meter, but sadly no +12V supply. I suspect that the brake is where the single 'BMF 4' wire splits into the six 'BMF 4A' to 'BMF 4F' wires. I further suspect that this is in or near the engine to cabin bulkhead connector, which I cannot access!
If anyone can confirm this, I would love to hear from you.
My solution (the bit you have all been waiting for!)
Drop down the car fuse box under the dashboard (pull down the red plastic tag at the top of the fuse box and slide the box up towards the roof of the car). All the wiring in and out of the fuse box goes through connectors at the back of the fuse box. 'BMF 4A' runs into a connector in the center of the box. Check for +12V on this wire. Remove a few connectors from the box to gain access, they are keyed so I do not think you can mix them up. The wire ident 'BMF 4A' is written on the wire, if you pull the wires out of the looms a littlt bit, you will see it. Splice a heavy wire from 'BMF 4A', run it under the dashboard and around to the light switch stalk connectors. Splict this wire into 'BMF 4D' and 'BMF 4F'. As all the power for all the lights is now running through this one wire, and 'BMF 4A' I did the "head light relay mod" as posted in these fourms, which means fitting two relays in the engine compartment, one for the dip beams, and one for the main beams. This reduces the current carried through 'BMF 4A' and the new spliced in wire. It also makes for better, brighter lights at night!
I still would like to find the orignal brake, but now I at least have lights. I think it's not a great design to have all the cars lighting power carried through one wire, if the brake occoured at night on a dark bendy road....
Good Luck.
I'm guessing your still trying to fix your lights! I've had the same snag on a 1998 S2 Xantia 1.8 16V last December, and I've done quite a bit of work on it.
First, the circuit. Power runs from the battery to the 4 heavy fuses in the engine compartment. Fues 'D' supplies power for all the lighting, as well as for other services such as the rad cooling fan, horn, fuel and water instruments, radio, centeral locking and electric windows. I assume that only your lights are affected, if so you are in the same boat as myself.
Using the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, power leaves fuse 'D' on a single wire marked 'BMF 4'. This wire runs forward from the fuse box, around and under the radiator, and into the offside wing and into the car through a connector.
I have not been able to access this connector from either side of the bulkhead, if anyone knows how, please let me know.
Now this 'BMF 4' wire seems to split into six sepreate wires labeled 'BMF 4A' to 'BMF 4F'. I cannot find any referance to a 'BMF 4A' in the wiring diagrams, but I have traced the rest.
'BMF 4B' runs into the car fuse box where it supplies power to fuses F7, F14, F25 & F27. These fuses have nothing to do with the lights, but they are supplied from the same wire, and so if you hava a working horn, radio, instruments, etc. then you have power into the car.
'BMF 4C' to 'BMF 4F' supply lighting power to the lighting switch on the steering column. From memory at least some, if not all, of these wires are pink, but the numbers are printed on the wires so you can identify each wire.
'BMF 4C' supplies power to flash the main beam.
'BMF 4D' supplies power to the dip beam.
'BMF 4E' supplies power to the side lights, instrument lights, and fog lights if fitted.
'BMF 4F' supplies power to the main beam.
The important thing is that these four wires should all be joined together, and all have a +12V supply for the lights to work.
In my case I found that, taking the connectors off the light switch stalk that the wires 'BMF 4C' to 'BMF 4F' (pins 1A and 2B on connector 9V NR, and pins 1B and 2B on connector 5V BA) did show continuity with a meter, but sadly no +12V supply. I suspect that the brake is where the single 'BMF 4' wire splits into the six 'BMF 4A' to 'BMF 4F' wires. I further suspect that this is in or near the engine to cabin bulkhead connector, which I cannot access!
If anyone can confirm this, I would love to hear from you.
My solution (the bit you have all been waiting for!)
Drop down the car fuse box under the dashboard (pull down the red plastic tag at the top of the fuse box and slide the box up towards the roof of the car). All the wiring in and out of the fuse box goes through connectors at the back of the fuse box. 'BMF 4A' runs into a connector in the center of the box. Check for +12V on this wire. Remove a few connectors from the box to gain access, they are keyed so I do not think you can mix them up. The wire ident 'BMF 4A' is written on the wire, if you pull the wires out of the looms a littlt bit, you will see it. Splice a heavy wire from 'BMF 4A', run it under the dashboard and around to the light switch stalk connectors. Splict this wire into 'BMF 4D' and 'BMF 4F'. As all the power for all the lights is now running through this one wire, and 'BMF 4A' I did the "head light relay mod" as posted in these fourms, which means fitting two relays in the engine compartment, one for the dip beams, and one for the main beams. This reduces the current carried through 'BMF 4A' and the new spliced in wire. It also makes for better, brighter lights at night!
I still would like to find the orignal brake, but now I at least have lights. I think it's not a great design to have all the cars lighting power carried through one wire, if the brake occoured at night on a dark bendy road....
Good Luck.
1996 Xantia 1.9 TD
1998 Xantia 1.8 16V
1998 Xantia 1.8 16V
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Thermonuclear
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 13 Nov 2008, 13:59
- Location: Dublin, Ireland
- My Cars:
Try this http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... =relay+mod
There is a link to a website with a generic wiring diagram at the end of the third page.
There is a link to a website with a generic wiring diagram at the end of the third page.
1996 Xantia 1.9 TD
1998 Xantia 1.8 16V
1998 Xantia 1.8 16V
So in the end i have
spliced a 12 volt power feed into the 4 lighting wires at the stalks,well i say spliced i cut the orginal factory wires near the stalks and gave them a new 12 volt feed.
then i went to the headlamps and i have used the old power feeds to the bulbs to control two relays(dip/dim).
which are wired direct to the battery(via inline fuses).
looks like it works and should take the load off the faulty bmf4 wire
finger crossed this is a long term solution
spliced a 12 volt power feed into the 4 lighting wires at the stalks,well i say spliced i cut the orginal factory wires near the stalks and gave them a new 12 volt feed.
then i went to the headlamps and i have used the old power feeds to the bulbs to control two relays(dip/dim).
which are wired direct to the battery(via inline fuses).
looks like it works and should take the load off the faulty bmf4 wire
finger crossed this is a long term solution
-
Thermonuclear
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 13 Nov 2008, 13:59
- Location: Dublin, Ireland
- My Cars:
This repair has worked for me for the last three months so should be OK
I would like to find a way to access the connector at the bulkhead where the wiring comes through to the cabin and to find the orignal brake, and to see if any other connections are likely to fail for the same reason.
One of these days...
I would like to find a way to access the connector at the bulkhead where the wiring comes through to the cabin and to find the orignal brake, and to see if any other connections are likely to fail for the same reason.
One of these days...
1996 Xantia 1.9 TD
1998 Xantia 1.8 16V
1998 Xantia 1.8 16V