C5 HDI 136 oil change

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GB
Posts: 165
Joined: 27 Jul 2006, 08:11

C5 HDI 136 oil change

Unread post by GB »

Do I need any special tools to change the oil on my 2l HDI 136hp (the bottom engine cover obscures the view)? Does it take a normal spanner of some unusual hex/torx/whatever tool?

Any special tools required for the oil fileter (paper cartridge type)?

Anyone know what size replacement washer to use?


Cheers,
GB
05 C5 VTR 2.0 HDI
115k
citroenxm
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Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
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Unread post by citroenxm »

Its all standard stuff NOTHING special what so ever!!!

21mm socket on the sump nut!

IF not then a 10 or 8 mm aLLEN key will do it!

But thats all. Oil filters are still round and spin on too :lol:

Have fun!!

Rgds
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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myglaren
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Unread post by myglaren »

Anecdotal only, can't even remember where I read it but supposedly it has to be done hot, which is clearly a safety hazard. The oil IIRC has to be at 80°C.
YMMV
bencowell
Posts: 507
Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 13:47
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Unread post by bencowell »

citroenxm wrote:Oil filters are still round and spin on too :lol:
I don't think they are on the 2.0 16v 138bhp diesel. My Haynes suggests it is a paper element underneath the air filter housing.
Currently driving a 2004 C5 VTR (old shape) and an Electric Kia Soul. Sorry but the electric one is my favourite!
Formerly Hyundai Genesis 3.8 V6, 2 x Kia Optima, 2 x C5, Xsara and Saxo.
citroenxm
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Unread post by citroenxm »

Well they are on the 2.2 136bhp units... I guess they must have changed them again for the "Newer" 2.o


Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
E H Shaw
Posts: 6
Joined: 11 Jul 2007, 21:15

Unread post by E H Shaw »

This is how I do the job.
Oil filter is round canister - usually quite stuck on so need tool to remove it.
Electric screwdriver speeds up removing engine guard bolts (10mm socket)
Wheel ramps (or in my case 2 concrete blocks) to raise front of car - drain hole is at back of engine). Raise car to max height using suspension to give adequate clearance under car. (Use axle stands or other means as safety device in case of suspension failure - very rare)
Job best done if engine warm - oil is runny and parts not cold to the touch when done in winter. Wear latex gloves to protect (and keep clean) your hands and get the waste-oil container as close as possible to the drain hole otherwise it splashes everywhere.