Xantia-2 heater matrix

[simoncanfer]

I have found a wealth of information here regarding the fun and games involved in a heater matrix change.

Does anyone have any tips regarding the mark 2 car - it's a 1999 HDi LX.

So far I know I should not need to remove the steering wheel, should not need to break into the air con as the heater box can be moved back (?).

What special tools should I get beyond spanners and a normal socket set?

What do I need apart from coolant, Deionised water and a new matrix and 2 days?

And most importantly - What type of bulbs does the instrument panel use?

thanks!

[addo]

To preserve my sanity, I'd likely remove the front seats.

You'll likely find the bulb type spec'd in the Service.Citroen pages. Probably a push fit, 1.2W of 5mm head diameter. If so, don't get sold the otherwise identical but 1.5W type from generic suppliers.

It's good to have a set of Torx drivers - or at least the tips for your ratchet screwdriver. Some sort of cat's paw or trim clip puller is handy for releasing the Christmas Tree clips on those bits of under-dash lagging above both footwells.

Some means of applying a vacuum will assist in bleeding the coolant once refilled.

Be prepared for the flex hoses to crack at their firewall elbows.

[simoncanfer]

Thanks.

Any issues with air bags or seat belt tensioners when removing seats?

When you mention flex hoses, are you thinking that it would be a good idea to have spare hoses?

[andmcit]

I personally can't see why you need to remove the seats and all the attendant
hassles that would involve. You'll need to have something to sit on when you
ponder your next move!!

The real git of this job is the front scuttle trim removal as you can very easily
ruin the laminate on the screen - sounds crazy but the mastic is stronger than
the glass and you WILL very easily chip, split or crack the screen rendering it
scrap. A hair dryer and craft knife worked for Paul citroenxm recently.

As Jim always warns, don't break the vulnerable air con run off pipe on the
bulkhead if you have AC!

Take pics and you can offer your own how to rundown here when you're done.

Andrew

[simoncanfer]

I may be in luck with the scuttle trim then, as the screen has been replaced before. So I hope the mastic is weaker than the one Citroen uses!

Thanks, forewarned is forearmed...

[addo]

I like the front seats out for this type of job because it gives better room to lay on your back and look up. Plus with our Antipodean temperatures it allows better airflow! The dash thermometer said 48° today (I have a picture)!

Simon - airbags are neutralised after fifteen-twenty minutes of no battery power. If you have a coded radio, deal with the code before powering everything down...

[citroenxm]

I have done TWO Series Two cars now, been lucky and not had an issue with Air Con pipes..

The Heater box will come forward, when you get the dash out you will see the blower side and heater box will split with just two bolts holding them together.. One at the top one at the bottom.. you'll see the top one after removing all the electronic boxes on top of the heater box... - splitting them enables the heater box to come far enough forward, after removing the retaining bolt from in the engine compartment..

Removing the feed pipes DONT WIGGLE them up and down to remove them, try a side to side motion, and VERY CAREFULL with a screw driver to help ease them. This has worked 3 times for me now...

Cant do a full write up now, im in work, but can do tonight if you like!!!

Rgds
Paul

[simoncanfer]

Paul, yes please a write up would be most appreciated!

[andmcit]

I posted some pictures here:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... c&start=15

that may help visualise the words posted in this thread.

Andrew

[CitroJim]

Removing the feed pipes DONT WIGGLE them up and down to remove them, try a side to side motion, and VERY CAREFULL with a screw driver to help ease them. This has worked 3 times for me now...

Another good trick is to get the engine really hot (cooling fans running) before attempting to disconnect the elbow. Heat and pent-up pressure in the cooliing systems helps enormously.

Just be very careful of scalding water when the elbow comes apart! Wear good gloves... Also watch for escaping coolant ending up in the inlet tract or turbo. Bung any vunerable orifices...

This has worked very well for both DickieG and I

When reassembling the elbow, the O rigs go on the elbow spigots first and push it home until it clicks.

[simoncanfer]

Well I've completed the heater matrix change in my xantia- I would have been lost without all the useful postings here, so thanks!

I would never have located the screws in the engine bay, some of which are inaccessible to say the least.

It seemed to me that 2 things could scupper this job - the scuttle trim removal and the matrix connector in the engine bay. I didn't fancy disconnecting that under pressure.

The car was covered in frost when I started - with the scuttle trim. As the screen was replaced not long ago the sealant took only about 10 minutes to trim away, quite an encouraging start!



5 hours later the inside looked like this, somewhat sad- happily the weather had perked up!



The real fun began on trying to disconnect the matrix. The hose connector would not budge. So I split it at the next flange, which comes with the matrix. (It was almost a sawing job!)

In the end, I removed the T20 screws on the metal plate on the bulkhead. With one person pulling the engine side and another pulling on the inside, we managed to get enough movement to split the joint. You can also see one of the heater box studs as the heater box has been drawn back into the car.



A mere 8 man-hours of work later and the car was back on the road. Very satisfying to have done, but probably the most frustrating car DIY I've ever experienced - that fascia is put together in a very non-obvious way. Certainly not designed for disassembly...