On saturday night, I got into my car (ZX), started it up, switched on the lights and after a split second of light, phut NO LIGHTS.[V] Long walk home was narrowly averted by nabbing a lift off some passing friends.
Turns out that I had two blown dipped beam bulbs (expensive blue xenon variety), one blown sidelight and one blow high beam and a dodgy earth on the other high beam. Cleaned up contacts, replaced a couple of dodgy looking sapde connections, replaced blown bulbs. It's all working now, but I am wondering if there are underlying problems.
As the lights came on and then went off, that must have been when the bulbs blew. The coil inside the Xenon bulbs had melted to a satistying blob. I looked at the Hayes manual. Is there a fuse in the lighting circuit , and if so, where is it hidden? or am I right in supposing that the bulbs themselves act as the fuse in the lighting circuit?
When I started up the car, I had my CD player and the fan on (pretty much as usual) and when the engine was running THEN I truned on the lights. Any ideas what would cause a surge to take the lights out?[?]
I am now back to standard dim and nasty headlights, but I don't want to spend out on more bright ones until I am sure that they wont just go Phut again.[xx(]
Any help and suggestions what I can test, gratefully received. ta!
Phut! no bulbs
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Jon
<font color="blue">Well, yes the lights are fused, the extent of the fusing being one 5A fuse for LH side and tail lamps, and another 5A for the RH side. I just checked the fuse table in the handbook, and the words dip beam and main beam are not mentioned. I know that there is a relay though, certainly for main beam. Another winner from Citroen.
If theres not excessive resistance (bad earths) and the lights work ok with standard 448 bulbs, well the answer is quite clear. Those so called Xenon bulbs just don't last too well, indeed I remember reading in a car mag about a bulb test when someone had written in to say that their "Blue look" bulbs kept blowing, and the manufacturer advised that "they were not designed for continual or long term use". OK, so just drive on sidelights if you've got a long night journey then.
As august (did I spell that right) members of this forum will tell you, the only replacement upgrade bulbs that actually last whilst giving improved light levels are the Philips Vision Plus.
I've had mine in for a year and 21,000 miles and use my lights well, constantly, and I'm still on the same set! Believe that other Members have had the same experiences.
PS I work for Andyspares not Philips and we don't sell them anyway so you can see I'm unbiased.</font id="blue">
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PS see http://www.powerbulbs.com/reviews/autoexpress.htm
If theres not excessive resistance (bad earths) and the lights work ok with standard 448 bulbs, well the answer is quite clear. Those so called Xenon bulbs just don't last too well, indeed I remember reading in a car mag about a bulb test when someone had written in to say that their "Blue look" bulbs kept blowing, and the manufacturer advised that "they were not designed for continual or long term use". OK, so just drive on sidelights if you've got a long night journey then.
As august (did I spell that right) members of this forum will tell you, the only replacement upgrade bulbs that actually last whilst giving improved light levels are the Philips Vision Plus.
I've had mine in for a year and 21,000 miles and use my lights well, constantly, and I'm still on the same set! Believe that other Members have had the same experiences.
PS I work for Andyspares not Philips and we don't sell them anyway so you can see I'm unbiased.</font id="blue">
[^]
PS see http://www.powerbulbs.com/reviews/autoexpress.htm
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tomsheppard
- Posts: 1802
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- x 1
That'll learn ye m'dear. CItroens have very thin wire to their lamps in order that French drivers do not frighten glow worms during the hunting season. High wattage bulbs cause it all to get hot and damage the earthing points and spade connectors which in turn kills bulbs. If you don't want problems, cut compatible wiring out of something German that has better quality connectors and wire these in through a pair of relays. Connect the earth wiring to stout (M6)bolts bedded in clean sound metal and secured with star washers. There is no substitute for thick wire and good connections if you want bulbs to last and no substitute for relays if you want to avoid buying switches!
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FFX-DM
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2002, 21:45
after re-reading my typos Jon, I wouldn'y worry unduly about your spelling, 'august' is correct in that context and I can claim in my defence that I can spell, just not type and think at the same time, Doh![:o)]
Pretty much as I suspected on the bulbs then. I noticed a fuse for left front and rear sidelights and a second for right front and rear sides, but as Tom mentions, not a whiff of dipped or main beam in the Haynes.
When redoing the earths, it was more a case of chop off and throw away cr*ppy old spade, clinging on by its' last strand of wire, and replace with mega super duper spade, applied by my blokey, who does that electrickery (not cars but air conditioning) for a living.
I know that whist I swear at my bulbs, Jon and others swear by these Phillips thingies, so it's off to purchase some, I just didn't want them to go Phut straight away.
Oh, by the way, I used to own a Polo, so don't give me that 'something reliable from a german car' nonsense![;)] I fully accept that quirky strangeness is all part of the charm of owning a Citroën though.
Thanks (now off on Phillips hunt)
Pretty much as I suspected on the bulbs then. I noticed a fuse for left front and rear sidelights and a second for right front and rear sides, but as Tom mentions, not a whiff of dipped or main beam in the Haynes.
When redoing the earths, it was more a case of chop off and throw away cr*ppy old spade, clinging on by its' last strand of wire, and replace with mega super duper spade, applied by my blokey, who does that electrickery (not cars but air conditioning) for a living.
I know that whist I swear at my bulbs, Jon and others swear by these Phillips thingies, so it's off to purchase some, I just didn't want them to go Phut straight away.
Oh, by the way, I used to own a Polo, so don't give me that 'something reliable from a german car' nonsense![;)] I fully accept that quirky strangeness is all part of the charm of owning a Citroën though.
Thanks (now off on Phillips hunt)
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RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 12447
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- x 1434
Try www.powerbulbs.com I got good service from them.
I wonder if there is not a problem here though. It might be worth running with the old bulbs, with a multi-meter wired in inside the car for a few days just to check the voltage is nice and steady, and doesn't spike when you turn some load on - it may be that the voltage reg on the alternator is going a bit dicky. The glob of melted filament certainly points to a voltage overload.
Richard
I wonder if there is not a problem here though. It might be worth running with the old bulbs, with a multi-meter wired in inside the car for a few days just to check the voltage is nice and steady, and doesn't spike when you turn some load on - it may be that the voltage reg on the alternator is going a bit dicky. The glob of melted filament certainly points to a voltage overload.
Richard
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FFX-DM
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2002, 21:45
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jeremy
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
- x 2
I had the alternator regulator fail on my BX TD and go over voltage. I first knew I had a problem when the lights would improve while driving and I could eventually feel a slight hesitation in the engine when running on a steady throttle as the alternator output varied. I was on holiday at the time and didn't want to disturb a car that was actually running very well but was finally convinced that the regulator had failed when I noticed acid coming out of the vents on the battery.
I mention this as an over-voltage alternator will give other symptoms which include wipers going crazy and rapid indicators as well. I think I'm right in saying that due to the circuit design the voltage is likely to rise considerably rather than a 10th of a volt or so which makes detection easier.
Jeremy
I mention this as an over-voltage alternator will give other symptoms which include wipers going crazy and rapid indicators as well. I think I'm right in saying that due to the circuit design the voltage is likely to rise considerably rather than a 10th of a volt or so which makes detection easier.
Jeremy
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FFX-DM
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2002, 21:45
[:(!] what happened to my formatting? Serves me right for (trying to be) being clever.
I did notice, whilst playing 'hunt the leak' that the alternator belt looks like it may have seen better days. I guess testing the alternator output is sooooo easy, even I could do it (if I ever locate the multimeter again).
I have been a bit paranoid recently, wondering what could have caused a surge on starting it up t'other night, and I have been starting it with the blower, CD player, etc all turned off and then introducing them one by one. I <b>so</b> want to use my shiny new bulbs!!! (this is normal and is not just a girl thing, right? [8D])
I did notice, whilst playing 'hunt the leak' that the alternator belt looks like it may have seen better days. I guess testing the alternator output is sooooo easy, even I could do it (if I ever locate the multimeter again).
I have been a bit paranoid recently, wondering what could have caused a surge on starting it up t'other night, and I have been starting it with the blower, CD player, etc all turned off and then introducing them one by one. I <b>so</b> want to use my shiny new bulbs!!! (this is normal and is not just a girl thing, right? [8D])