How do I open a Xantia rear door PLEASE

bxman · Post by **bxman** » 18 Dec 2008, 21:12

It would appear that one of the rods must have dropped off.
I do not think the trim will come off with the door shut.
Any and all suggestions welcomed.
Yet another senior moment can I move this to the Citroen Area?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 19 Dec 2008, 08:45

im afrayed you might have to risk destroying the door trim, as that will be the only route to the mechanisum

regards malcolm

addo · Post by **addo** » 19 Dec 2008, 10:53

BXM, I suspect the set screw holding the rod to your internal handle, has loosened off or backed out.

Perhaps the recess (an integrated unit) can be removed? I know it's possible with the door shut; you need a tiny Torx to get the screw up underneath but the rest is plastic clips.

bonnyman750 · Post by **bonnyman750** » 19 Dec 2008, 11:49

Hi bxman,
If it is only the small screw mentioned above it is a T20 and is accessable from behind the surrounding trim of the inner door release handle...
If not, you can get the door card off with the door shut as I had to when I had door latch problems. Just as a tip, I found it easier to remove the relevant side seat cushion as this gave more room to work and more clearance when removing the door card. It's only two nuts

Once you have taken the small T15 screw out as mentioned above and removed the door release handle trim, you take out the two T30 screws out of the door opener handle housing and the two T30 self tappers out of the main inner grab handle. Prise the speaker trim off and undo the 4 x T20 screws holding the speaker in (I just find it better to take the speaker out than risk damaging it!) and the 3 x T20 screws holding the lower part of the door card in. (This is assuming, of course, that you have speakers in the back doors

If not then it is just panel clips in the lower area) Unfortunately even if you use a proper 'Trim Hook' tool you will almost certainly break the trim pin in the upper rear corner as they are a crap design. Lastly, using a small flat bladed screwdriver, push the small peg inwards on the press down door lock button at the upper front end and lift the button up and out. The door card should now come off reasonably easy.
To get to all the gubbins inside the door you will next have to peel back and /or remove the inner foam splash panel. I have found the best way is to use a new sharp craft knife, pull back a portion of the panel and insert the knife through the white foam sticky bit and while gently pulling the panel outwards, sliding the knife through on an angle, flat to the door skin. Usually you only need to detach a portion to get to what you need and this way allows you to stick it back on when finished. (The white sticky stuff retains some of its stickiness even when cut!)

Just for you info, my latch problem would not allow me to open the RHR door from both the outside and the inside. I found the problem to be that due to wear and tear, the door had dropped a bit and when shutting the door the striker on the bodyshell had contacted the black plastic shroud around the latch area and a small piece had come away and had lodged between the moving parts of the latch mechanism rendering it inoperative.
I had to do the above to the door to get the latch unit out so that I could repair it (read: get the bit of plastic out and put the latch back in:)) It has been OK since.

HTH

Glyn

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 19 Dec 2008, 13:00

I had a broken locking button on my MK1 and the control rod just sat inside but accessible by long-nosed pliers. If you can reach this (A telescopic magnet may be useful) would it unlock your door?

SLYTZD · Post by **SLYTZD** » 29 Dec 2008, 11:05

I have a simular problem, rear left door wont open. I've taken the door card off & everything looks to be working as it should. It locks - unlocks & deadlocks fine by hand & remote... just wont open from the inside or out!

Bonnyman750, how did you get to your latch as I beleive you can only remove it with the door open?

I know this is a common fault, can anyone point to any other threads covering the subject? I searched with little luck.

Thanks.

bonnyman750 · Post by **bonnyman750** » 29 Dec 2008, 12:21

Hi Simon,
When my latch failed I was maybe lucky in that I could sometimes open the door, the close it again and I would again find myself in your position. But, the same as yourself, the door latch operated as normal on both the door inner button and the remote. IIRC, I took the door card off and the outside door handle and kept operating the latch anyway I could until I could open the door, then removed the latch for a more in depth look which is where I found the broken piece of plastic from the shroud.
I must admit, I was concerned that if I could not get the latch to operate and open the door that my only course of action was to break the casing open so that I could operate the innards. The only other course of action I did consider was to go to my local Citroen specialist and ask them as they must have come cross this fault as well.
If it is any consolation my drivers door latch is starting to fail, where I can unlock it with the key and the door will open from the outside, but if I use the remote the outer door handle operates as if the door is still locked. I believe there was a thread which explained how to drill the main rivet out to separate the casing somewhere in the forum, allowing you to re lubricate the moving parts and reuse the unit, so I will have to investigate this when it gets a bit warmer...
HTH

Glyn

SLYTZD · Post by **SLYTZD** » 30 Dec 2008, 23:43

Ok thanks, no joy so far. Think I might have to resort to carefully braking the latch off through the outer door handle.

addo · Post by **addo** » 31 Dec 2008, 02:57

Make sure you have exhausted all other options first - trim panel off, rods tried, all that stuff. The door handle fixing nut can be accessed with care and slender hands; think it's an 11mm open ender that works for me.

When reattaching the door handle nut I use a tiny square of body trim strip foam tape, to "glue" it on my fingertip.

bonnyman750 · Post by **bonnyman750** » 31 Dec 2008, 11:40

Just a thought!! I don't know if it is possible but can you get to the back of the striker screws from inside the wheelarch? It might involve removing a small piece of wheelarch in that area which isn't ideal, but this might allow access to the rear of the striker screws and let you drill them out from the wheelarch. Once out the door could be opened with the striker still in the latch, thus allowing you to undo the three latch screws etc..

HTH

Glyn

bxman · Post by **bxman** » 01 Jan 2009, 18:32

Thanks one and all.
It seams there can be a variety of problems and suggestions so as it was a little warmer this afternoon I had a look at mine.
Sad to relate no success to report. For the record .
I can move both inner and outer door handle without feeling any noticeable resistance.
I fortunately have access to an old Xantia. I discovered that by drilling a 3mm hole in the outer handle surround [ 22mm forward 15mm down ]. I can push a rod through and move the vertical arm on the front side of the mechanism worked perfectly on the old one no problems so what is a little hole to worry about ?
Unfortunately it does not do the job on the one I want to repair.
But I have been able to confirm that both handles are actually moving that vertical arm correctly. On mine the problem is within that rectangular box containing the catch itself.
It is a comfort to know that I am not the only one with the problem and that greater minds than mine are seeking a solution.