front brakes

paco · Post by **paco** » 02 Dec 2008, 14:49

hi

my 1995 2lt td has recently passed its mot , while changing a front offside wheel last week i noticed that the inboard brake pad is not wearing as quickly as the outboard pad, the inboard is roughly twice ad thick as the outboard, has anyone had this problem, does anyone know the cure, the car brakes fine.

regards

barry

Post by **myglaren** » 02 Dec 2008, 17:52

The sliding part of the caliber may be binding, I'd propose a partial strip down, don't separate the caliper halves though! and clean up the whole caliper and apply a little Coppaslip or brake grease to the sliding surfaces.

Post by **CitroJim** » 02 Dec 2008, 19:35

In addition to Steve's advice, check the handbrake cable adjustment. It is very critical. Check too the handbrake cables are goosd and are not partially seized. It's a common problem as the outser sheaths split where they slide in the guide rings and allow water in, thus seizing the cable.

paco · Post by **paco** » 03 Dec 2008, 13:21

thanks for the info. we have manage to shear the securing bolt for the back caliper , leaving some of the male thread inside the hole, the bolt felt very weak , and sheared under minimum pressure, is this a common fault, and what is the best cure.

regards

barry

MJM · Post by **MJM** » 04 Dec 2008, 13:06

I suspect that the bolt had been weakened by the corrosion build up between the caliper and its mount on the hub assembly. My local indy has known the bolts to shear due to this.

The bolts are Loctited in and need winding right out with a socket/spanner. If you can get at the broken bit then I think the best way would be to centre punch the bolt, taking care to get the punch mark in the centre, and use a power drill to drill out the remains. Start with a small (2mm or thereabouts) drill bit and work up in size. You may find that when you get close to the core size of the bolt the remains will "give up" and make it easy to pick the last bits out.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 04 Dec 2008, 13:33

i would try a little heat on the lug of the rear arm first, then you might find you can spin the bolt stub out with the end of a screw driver, as will only be the lock tight or rust holding it now, there will not be any load on it ,

and the front pads im with Steve on that, because i think if it were cable related it will wear both pads more or less the same, is the dics suface dicoloured/blue

regards malcolm

paco · Post by **paco** » 04 Dec 2008, 14:31

the disc is not discoloured.

reblack68 · Post by **reblack68** » 04 Dec 2008, 19:18

Three of my four bolts broke when I changed the rear discs. One had a bit sticking out, one broke flush and one broke sub-flush. They were all removed by welding a nut on, the two difficult ones were extended with weld. The process had to be repeated several times but they all came out. Each time of welding heated the area more, which helped things along.

You should organise replacement bolts from a Citroen dealer. I would buy four because you'll probably find they're all bent. I think it cost me about £17.

You also need to remove the corrosion that caused the problem in the first place. Most of it will be on the calliper but the hub would benefit from a scrape too. Some people like to reassemble with a sheet of polythene between the faces to prevent future corrosion.