Morning all. First post here. I have just finished rebuilding my brother's Kangoo 1.9d after the timing belt snapped. The only damage I found was two slightly bent valves so I replaced those and set the clearances, new stem seals, a full set of new pulleys and water pump. Interestingly, the only pulley not included in the set I got was the only one that sounded worn. Took a while to identify it. Got it from GSF in the end who called it an oil pump pulley despite the fact it is blatantly a toothed idler that bolts directly to the block.
Anyway. Got it all back together, used the timing marks on the new belt to time everything up (they seem to be in the same places as the marks on the broken belt) but now it takes several attempts to start each time, it is much noisier than it used to be when under load and it is underpowered. When idling or on an over-run it is quiet so I am sure there are no broken metal bits flailing round.
It does run and bro is using it (carefully) as he needs to work.
I've asked around a bit and the favourite theory at the moment is the fuel pump is a tooth or two out. Sounds feasible to me. Anyone else experienced this? Any useful advice gratefully received.
Cam belt failiure - now noisy and gutless
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Yoy are dead sure only 2 valves were slightly bent ?
I would initially have the compression figures checked, as this tells all on your repair job.
Only if compression checks good I'd go on with further repair/adjusting.
The first check to do is to plug both cam and crank with dowels in their index holes.
If you can not fit either dowel with the other one first inserted, you have found your problem.
Now reassure yourself, that any coldstart device is working and releases itself once engine is warmed up.
This device works by altering the injection timing and will cause a more distinct diesel clatter when active.
Next you may try time your diesel pump.
If it has been removed or just slackened off in the mountings, it will be out of timing.
It is very IMPORTANT that any adjustments are done with a warm engine, and any coldstart devices released.
The complete pump assembly is first marked up clearly - relative to its mounting - for reference.
Then slacken the pump mounting bolts, and turn the pump body SLIGHTLY (max 1-2mm relative to ref marking) in same direction as engine runs. That would most likely be against yourself, when standing in front of engine.
This will retard the timing and causes a more "soft" diesel clatter.
NOTE : if only a slight improvement is reached, you should instead consider move the belt one tooth on the pump cog AWAY from you relative to the belt, as this may be your real problem.
By trial and error, you will end up right. This will be just barely on the onset of the more distinct diesel clatter.
I would initially have the compression figures checked, as this tells all on your repair job.
Only if compression checks good I'd go on with further repair/adjusting.
The first check to do is to plug both cam and crank with dowels in their index holes.
If you can not fit either dowel with the other one first inserted, you have found your problem.
Now reassure yourself, that any coldstart device is working and releases itself once engine is warmed up.
This device works by altering the injection timing and will cause a more distinct diesel clatter when active.
Next you may try time your diesel pump.
If it has been removed or just slackened off in the mountings, it will be out of timing.
It is very IMPORTANT that any adjustments are done with a warm engine, and any coldstart devices released.
The complete pump assembly is first marked up clearly - relative to its mounting - for reference.
Then slacken the pump mounting bolts, and turn the pump body SLIGHTLY (max 1-2mm relative to ref marking) in same direction as engine runs. That would most likely be against yourself, when standing in front of engine.
This will retard the timing and causes a more "soft" diesel clatter.
NOTE : if only a slight improvement is reached, you should instead consider move the belt one tooth on the pump cog AWAY from you relative to the belt, as this may be your real problem.
By trial and error, you will end up right. This will be just barely on the onset of the more distinct diesel clatter.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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leewurf
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 24 Nov 2008, 08:50
update
Okay. Just got back from having another go at the Kangoo. As suspected the fuel pump was one tooth advanced so the resultant extreme cylinder pressures would explain the noise. Put that right but unfortunately, after running about a bit on Sunday, the car hasn't run since and refused to start tonight after correcting the timing error.
Used the squeezy thing to pump some fuel through then loosened the fuel lines between the pump and the injectors and cranked the engine but no fuel came out so it would seem the pump has stopped working. Possibly damaged by the high pressures the injectors have been exposed to. After each time cranking a slug of air comes out of the pump up the inlet pipe.
Hoping someone will tell me there is a quick fix for this.
Used the squeezy thing to pump some fuel through then loosened the fuel lines between the pump and the injectors and cranked the engine but no fuel came out so it would seem the pump has stopped working. Possibly damaged by the high pressures the injectors have been exposed to. After each time cranking a slug of air comes out of the pump up the inlet pipe.
Hoping someone will tell me there is a quick fix for this.
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
You have lost the pump inlet suction for any reason.
The pressure output for the injectors will never see the combustion pressure, so its defo not that being the problem.
Try again using the hand primer pump. Be absolutely sure there is fuel reaching the diesel pump inlet stud - and absolutely NO air - at all - in the fuel.
Also - any minor leak in the fuel lines and filter, will instantly cause the fuel to run back from the pump - into the tank.
Remember there is no feed pump in the tank or elsewhere, only the diesel pump itself to suction the fuel.
PS : its not that simple you are low on fuel ?
The pressure output for the injectors will never see the combustion pressure, so its defo not that being the problem.
Try again using the hand primer pump. Be absolutely sure there is fuel reaching the diesel pump inlet stud - and absolutely NO air - at all - in the fuel.
Also - any minor leak in the fuel lines and filter, will instantly cause the fuel to run back from the pump - into the tank.
Remember there is no feed pump in the tank or elsewhere, only the diesel pump itself to suction the fuel.
PS : its not that simple you are low on fuel ?
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image