).It doesnt matter what language its in as long as there are some good pics in there as i know Jim described the job but i dont fancy going gung ho without a guide of some sort and i dont quite trust the book of fibs i have.
Trailing arm replacement guide
Moderator: RichardW
Trailing arm replacement guide
Has anyone ever come across a guide for this job as i have two to do in the coming weeks(thanks to jgra for donating them to me as they are in super condition ).
It doesnt matter what language its in as long as there are some good pics in there as i know Jim described the job but i dont fancy going gung ho without a guide of some sort and i dont quite trust the book of fibs i have.
).It doesnt matter what language its in as long as there are some good pics in there as i know Jim described the job but i dont fancy going gung ho without a guide of some sort and i dont quite trust the book of fibs i have.
Hi KP.
Sorry no photo's but it realy is an easy job, with the only real snag being the ABS sensor (if fitted)
Normal jack up nice and high use axle stands blurb.
Put the height lever into low.
Remove the wheel on the offending side.
Remove the back plate from the disc area.
Remove the long bolt holding the pads in the brake caliper and remove the pads.
Push the caliper pistons back and replace the long bolt without the pads.
Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on and move the caliper out of the way.
(no fluid will be lost as the long bolt holds the caliper together, no need to bleed the brakes when finished either)
Remove the disc.
ABS SENSOR, if fitted, either remove at the arm, behind the disc, (easier if it will move) or undo the wiring at the joint and remove it complete with the arm.
If the old arm is scrap, then you can get a hacksaw and cut a slot in the top of the holding bracket, this will enable you to open up the bracket and release the sensor. (Please dont use this method if sending the arm to us for recon as it causes a lot more work fixing the thing)
Undo the anti roll bar clamp (2 torx screws) and release the anti roll bar. (the brake pipe is held secure on a plate in here)
Remove the R clip that holds the suspension cylinder rod to the arm.
Undo and remobe the main arm pivot bolt (24mm socket and spanner)
Grunt the arm out onto the floor.
If you are keeping the original wheel bearing, this can be changed in the comfort of a nice warm shed, but it is better to undo the hub nut on the car before the arm is removed as the car will be your vice for holding the arm still.
Re-fit, as they allways say..... Reverse all of the above, but dont forget that a little grease on threads saves a lot of swearing if it ever has to come off again.
Regards
Martin.
To anyone else.
If I have forgotten anything, as usual please add.
Sorry no photo's but it realy is an easy job, with the only real snag being the ABS sensor (if fitted)
Normal jack up nice and high use axle stands blurb.
Put the height lever into low.
Remove the wheel on the offending side.
Remove the back plate from the disc area.
Remove the long bolt holding the pads in the brake caliper and remove the pads.
Push the caliper pistons back and replace the long bolt without the pads.
Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on and move the caliper out of the way.
(no fluid will be lost as the long bolt holds the caliper together, no need to bleed the brakes when finished either)
Remove the disc.
ABS SENSOR, if fitted, either remove at the arm, behind the disc, (easier if it will move) or undo the wiring at the joint and remove it complete with the arm.
If the old arm is scrap, then you can get a hacksaw and cut a slot in the top of the holding bracket, this will enable you to open up the bracket and release the sensor. (Please dont use this method if sending the arm to us for recon as it causes a lot more work fixing the thing)
Undo the anti roll bar clamp (2 torx screws) and release the anti roll bar. (the brake pipe is held secure on a plate in here)
Remove the R clip that holds the suspension cylinder rod to the arm.
Undo and remobe the main arm pivot bolt (24mm socket and spanner)
Grunt the arm out onto the floor.
If you are keeping the original wheel bearing, this can be changed in the comfort of a nice warm shed, but it is better to undo the hub nut on the car before the arm is removed as the car will be your vice for holding the arm still.
Re-fit, as they allways say..... Reverse all of the above, but dont forget that a little grease on threads saves a lot of swearing if it ever has to come off again.
Regards
Martin.
To anyone else.
If I have forgotten anything, as usual please add.
Cheers Martin,
The old ones have bearing issues as i think Jim said it might be the stubs that are causing them to be eaten up??
The ABS sensor on the pass side is duff as jims help with the lexia showed and the other one looks good.
If the arms can be of any use to anyone after i've removed them they are quite welcome to them as i got these ones for free.
Thanks to RICHARDW(not jgra1 sorry)
I keep losing my marbles at my old age
Can i do one side at a time and have the other side on the floor or does it cause issues trying to get the rear arb back on right as i only have one axle stand at the minute?
Thanks for the info again Martin
The brake pipes were the things i was worried about most as i didnt want to lose any fluid and have to mess about bleeding the system again.
The old ones have bearing issues as i think Jim said it might be the stubs that are causing them to be eaten up??
The ABS sensor on the pass side is duff as jims help with the lexia showed and the other one looks good.
If the arms can be of any use to anyone after i've removed them they are quite welcome to them as i got these ones for free.
Thanks to RICHARDW(not jgra1 sorry)
I keep losing my marbles at my old age
Can i do one side at a time and have the other side on the floor or does it cause issues trying to get the rear arb back on right as i only have one axle stand at the minute?
Thanks for the info again Martin
The brake pipes were the things i was worried about most as i didnt want to lose any fluid and have to mess about bleeding the system again.
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CitroJim
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They were from Richard, he offered them in your earlier wheel bearing thread KP..
The parts relay system worksDickieG wrote:If you want to collect, I have two complete rear suspension arms (free) with good wheel bearings if you want to go that route.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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DickieG
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Great to see they'll be put to good use, the job looks/sounds far more difficult than it really is, you should get both done in a day just be careful you don't split a cylinder boot or allow an ABS sensor wire to get trapped.KP wrote:Thank you again DickieG(aka Richard)
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14 BMW 535D Tourer
19 BMW i3s
06 C3 Desire 1.4
72 DS 21 EFi Pallas BVH