Camshaft & Valve positioning

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 17 Oct 2008, 15:37

When I removed the head, the engine was set to align the locking bolts. I've since removed the head and lost the camshaft/valve position. I think the Haynes manual can help me there but I haven't studied it yet, it's in the car. Anyone know a quicker way?

I think there's a photo of how the pistons are but like I said, they're at the position needed to lock the pulleys etc - both outer pistons up, middle two down.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 17 Oct 2008, 16:36

For Cassy, we removed the cam from the head, timed the pump and crank, then re-fitted the cam using the timing hole and bolt.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 17 Oct 2008, 16:47

Xac wrote: re-fitted the cam using the timing hole and bolt.

I'd forgotten the bolt holes are in the head so I just need to refit the cam pulley and line them up!

Cheers for the reminder xac.

TBONE · Unread post by **TBONE** » 17 Oct 2008, 17:13

and the flywheel locking pin

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 17 Oct 2008, 19:17

even if you have the cam set at the right place, it sometimes pays to have the pistons just a tad off TDC untill the head is back on, then just remember which direction you rotated the crack, to make sure you rotate it back the opposite direction till the pin goes into the flywheel

regards malcolm

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 Oct 2008, 19:38

Mike,

I would also check the crank is in the right position. As said, with the cam and pump, you cannot go wrong. Line up the timing holes and job done.

I may be talking rubbish here but when I last did a cambelt on a TU engine I had to retime it from scratch. I found the flywheel had four timing holes in it, 90 degrees apart

I'm not saying the XUD is the same but I have a nagging feeling it does have at least two. I recall needing to find the hole on one occasion and was surprised to find one where I did not expect it to be.

Have a look at the cam and it's relationship to valves when it is timed up and check the pistons are in the right places.

It will be very prudent to spin the engine gently with injectors out after the head goes back on just to check the timing is right. If it comes to a metallic stop at any point in its rotation, it's wrong!

Malcolm, that's a good tip to have the pistons just off TDC when initially fitting the head!

TBONE · Unread post by **TBONE** » 17 Oct 2008, 19:49

its a pity he doesn't have an email address I could have sent images of how to do it from my stupid autodata software as someone said?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 Oct 2008, 19:55

TBONE wrote:its a pity he doesn't have an email address I could have sent images of how to do it from my stupid autodata software as someone said?

PM him. I'm sure he'll be more than happy to reveal his email address so you can send him the data!

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 17 Oct 2008, 20:13

Some good suggestions there, thanks for the prompting and I certainly will lower the top pistons first. I just wanted to get the right angle dangle of the valves first as it'll be a might difficult if I'm in the wrong quarter when it's bolted down.

But I'm a long way of timing the belt yet, I've had a few setbacks today but I'll update the blog once I've gotten my dinner.

TBONE, I'd be most grateful, expect a PM shortly.

TBONE · Unread post by **TBONE** » 18 Oct 2008, 09:17

not sure if this will work but worth a try

http://www.flipdrive.com/flipdrive.php

edit* nop that was a fail

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 18 Oct 2008, 10:08

the cranck is nay a prob even if there is more than one pin hole????,

you can get it almost spot on by whatching the sprocket end woodruff key when it gets to about 12 oclock, just set it so the rear edge of the woodruf key is in line the front edge of the small raised block in the castting just above the crack sprocket, then you will find you might just have to rock the crank very slightly to locate the timming pin in flywheel,

easy peasy

also NEVER NEVER SPIN ENGINE WITH STARTER TO CHECK IF YOU HAVE ANY CONTACT BETWEEN VALVES AND PISTONS,

ALWAYS TURN GENTLY WITH A SOCKET ON CRANCK PULLY BOLT TWO COMPLETE TURNS, AND NEVER FORCE PAST ANY TIGHTNES

regards malcolm

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 18 Oct 2008, 21:21

How would I rotate the crank back if it's gone past the locking point? No doubt I'll find a way but it's not obvious to me right now.

TBONE · Unread post by **TBONE** » 19 Oct 2008, 08:55

if its set up right there is no need to rotate it backward which is what your not supposed to do "listen to citrojim" that's very good advice, from what I gather your having problems lining the teeth up on the cams for the belt to line up? as I said if its set up right this should not be a problem

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 19 Oct 2008, 14:57

In general Mike, If you slip past the timing hole, it's best to carry on rotating another revolution.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 19 Oct 2008, 18:35

I thought Malcolm inferred it could be backed up a bit - sounds safer than spinning the crank 360 degrees, that's all.