If it ever stops raining here in Yorkshire, I intend to do some routine jobs on my Xantia. Can anyone advise the correct oil to use in the AL4 auto box ?
Had the rear wheels off to check the pads on Sunday and the wrong pads have been fitted. The ones in are about 10mm short of the top of the disc and overhang the bottom by about the same and have formed a lip which explains the squeeling when braking at low speed. Will these have damaged the discs themselves ?
AL4 Gearbox oil / rear brake pads
Moderator: RichardW
AL4 Gearbox oil / rear brake pads
98 Xantia Mk2 2.0 16v Auto Exclusive 160k + Now gone to Citroen Heaven
2004 C5 Mk 1 2.0 8V VTR Estate - current. Now with leather.
2004 C5 Mk 1 2.0 8V VTR Estate - current. Now with leather.
-
DickieG
- Monaco's youngest playboy
- Posts: 4877
- Joined: 25 Nov 2006, 09:15
- Location: Buckinghamshire
- My Cars:
- x 38
The oil (Esso) is only available from Citroën dealers (details in car handbook), don't use any other such oil as Dextron as you'll trash the box.
The problem you have with the rear pads is corrosion between the caliper and suspension arm causing the caliper to sit at an angle. Remove the pads/caliper, scrape away the corrosion and fit new pads, whether the disc's need replacing will depend upon the wear pattern.
If you carry out a search on Xantia rear caliper, corrosion, pads, etc you'll find quite a number of threads on this.
Out of interest MOT stations have been notified to look out for this problem as it is so widespread and in extreme case can cause the caliper retaining bolts to snap
The problem you have with the rear pads is corrosion between the caliper and suspension arm causing the caliper to sit at an angle. Remove the pads/caliper, scrape away the corrosion and fit new pads, whether the disc's need replacing will depend upon the wear pattern.
If you carry out a search on Xantia rear caliper, corrosion, pads, etc you'll find quite a number of threads on this.
Out of interest MOT stations have been notified to look out for this problem as it is so widespread and in extreme case can cause the caliper retaining bolts to snap
13 Ram 1500 Hemi
14 BMW 535D Tourer
19 BMW i3s
06 C3 Desire 1.4
72 DS 21 EFi Pallas BVH
14 BMW 535D Tourer
19 BMW i3s
06 C3 Desire 1.4
72 DS 21 EFi Pallas BVH
-
addo
- Sara Watson's Stalker
- Posts: 7098
- Joined: 19 Aug 2008, 12:38
- Location: NEW South Wales, Australia. I'll show you "Far, far away" ;-)
- My Cars: Peugeot 605
Citroën Berlingo
Alfa 147 - x 93
Hirsty, I imagine you've seen the procedure for AL4 oil changes elsewhere, but in a nutshell:
Drain with the car warm, by removing the large outer drain bolt (it takes out the level tube with it). Note the fluid volume. Refit the drain/level assembly.
Remove the filler plug on top, and add a similar amount of fluid to that removed - plus a little more (maybe a cupful). Watch for losing the copper O-ring not mentioned in many DIY guides. Put the plug back.
Run the car to achieve a transmission temperature of about 60°C (use a pyrometer if you're fussy, or just take a ten-fifteen minute drive). With the motor running and car on level ground, remove the inner plug from the box's drain assembly.
Whatever trickles out, is excess. If nothing comes, you'll have to top up the box with another 500ml and try again. Refit the plug after each attempt. Keep track accurately of the total volume of oil added.
Someone with a diagnostic rig, should then subtract 2750 units from the ECU wear counter for every 500mls of fluid replaced.
Regards, Adam
Drain with the car warm, by removing the large outer drain bolt (it takes out the level tube with it). Note the fluid volume. Refit the drain/level assembly.
Remove the filler plug on top, and add a similar amount of fluid to that removed - plus a little more (maybe a cupful). Watch for losing the copper O-ring not mentioned in many DIY guides. Put the plug back.
Run the car to achieve a transmission temperature of about 60°C (use a pyrometer if you're fussy, or just take a ten-fifteen minute drive). With the motor running and car on level ground, remove the inner plug from the box's drain assembly.
Whatever trickles out, is excess. If nothing comes, you'll have to top up the box with another 500ml and try again. Refit the plug after each attempt. Keep track accurately of the total volume of oil added.
Someone with a diagnostic rig, should then subtract 2750 units from the ECU wear counter for every 500mls of fluid replaced.
Regards, Adam