I recently tried and failed to replace the leaking top on my lucas pump.After replacement the car would start and run then stop,same thing happened when I put the old top back on,resulting in me having to go and source a non turbo lucas pump which cured it and is now running fine.
I just wondered if anyone knows where I went wrong in the pump top swap and if there are any guides available for the procedure as there seems to be many guides for leaking bosch pumps but not for the lucas.After reading the forums I should have swapped over to bosch but at the time it seemed too daunting a project.Lucas non turbo pumps are hard to find as I found out after 2 hours on the phone and countless hours on the internet.My other 405 is Lucas as well so a guide for future reference would certainly be useful.
lucas pump top replacement
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CitroJim
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I've done several of these in the past. I've never replaced the top itself, just all the seals to stop them weeping diesel.
They're a damm sight easier to overhaul than a Bosch pump!
I've never had a problem although you have to be careful to keep the fast idle/anti-stall mechanism in the right orientation. It can go back two ways and it is not immediately obvious which way is which. The same applies to the throttle shaft. It too can go back opposite to how it should be and can foul the fast idle/anti-stall mechanism.
Basically, the throttle, via the governor spring, pulls on the centrifugal governor operating plate whilst the fast idle/anti-stall works on the back of it.
Could you keep the engine running with this pump or did it just repeatedly start and then stop?
Whenever opening up these pumps, you have to be clinically clean. The first thing you see when lifting the lid is a big, open pool of fuel and it's so easy to drop a bit of rubbish in there that can so easily go on to clog a passage. You have to work and think like a surgeon with these pumps
They do have some incredibly fine passages in them which is why clean filters and a strictly non-vegetarian diet is so important to these pumps.
Every time the top comes off, it is pretty critical to replace the lid seal and the O rings on the throttle and fast idle shafts.
They're a damm sight easier to overhaul than a Bosch pump!
I've never had a problem although you have to be careful to keep the fast idle/anti-stall mechanism in the right orientation. It can go back two ways and it is not immediately obvious which way is which. The same applies to the throttle shaft. It too can go back opposite to how it should be and can foul the fast idle/anti-stall mechanism.
Basically, the throttle, via the governor spring, pulls on the centrifugal governor operating plate whilst the fast idle/anti-stall works on the back of it.
Could you keep the engine running with this pump or did it just repeatedly start and then stop?
Whenever opening up these pumps, you have to be clinically clean. The first thing you see when lifting the lid is a big, open pool of fuel and it's so easy to drop a bit of rubbish in there that can so easily go on to clog a passage. You have to work and think like a surgeon with these pumps
They do have some incredibly fine passages in them which is why clean filters and a strictly non-vegetarian diet is so important to these pumps.Every time the top comes off, it is pretty critical to replace the lid seal and the O rings on the throttle and fast idle shafts.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...