Bushes, and other items....

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 06 Jul 2008, 17:33

After having a good read at threads on here and having a rather nice drive in the Xantia the other day (despite the dodgy suspension) as well as the fact that it is returning 45mpg AROUND TOWN!!! (HDi 110), I have decided to spend the money and get it all up to scratch.

Now I am trying to make a list of bits so I can get a guide price to see how much it'll all cost. I've thought of the obvious things but have come to a blank

If possible could someone tell me all the bushes that usually need doing every so often. Drop links? Anything like this.

I want to go over it with a fine tooth comb as I bought it 7/8 months back with no service history. Feel I want to do my bit in keeping another (economical) Xantia on the road

Think I'll start a list here and if you can add to it then feel free, as well as adding any advice.

Spheres
Hydraflush
Timing Belt Kit
Auxilary Belt/Pulleys etc (if the HDi has one, something tells me Serpentine? Not sure why)
Brakes (Pads, discs, handbrake cables, bleeding - anything else?)
Clutch (at some point

)
Glow Plugs

Mind has hit a wall so anything else to add please do, however small. Like I say, it would be nice to get it as close to perfect condition as possible (within reason)

Another thing, is there a test for the pressure regulator? Mine's been running with flat spheres for a while and have heard this can damage them?

I know of GSF and they seem to be pretty good on prices. Is there anywhere else people would recommend?

Thanks
Toby

reblack68 · Post by **reblack68** » 06 Jul 2008, 22:10

Buypartsby are very cheap for timing belts and brake discs and they seem to supply quality brands.

If you're buying handbrake cables remember that the HDi 110 has a longer cable on the passenger side than most Xantia versions. Not all motor factors have them listed correctly, just make sure you get the longer of the two types available regardless of what the catalogue says. If you get the wrong cable it'll fit but the handbrake will pull itself on at full lock.

Driver's side cables are the same for all models.

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 07 Jul 2008, 09:30

Dont forget your filters and coolant.....

J

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 07 Jul 2008, 13:36

thanks jgra, silly of me to forget those. Also, one of my mudflaps fell off today, think the clip is broken and one is missing. Do Citroen sell the clips seperately for a reasonable price?

Spheres
Hydraflush
Timing Belt Kit
Auxilary Belt/Pulleys etc (if the HDi has one, something tells me Serpentine? Not sure why)
Brakes (Pads, discs, handbrake cables, bleeding - anything else?)
Clutch (at some point )
Glow Plugs
Filters, fluids
Mudflap Clips

Post by **CitroJim** » 08 Jul 2008, 12:59

Pleased you're sticking with the Xantia Toby, it'll really appreciate the TLC you're about to lavish on it

I'd not worry about replacing the handbrake cables unless they are showing signs of deterioration (e.g. cracks in the outer sheath) and do bear in mind that the LH cable is a special on the HDi and not available from GSF

Running a flat accumulator can cause the PR to leak. The stress can crack it so is long as you see no leaks, you may well have got away with it.

What sort of a job is a cambelt on an HDi compared to an XUD? Does the pump need timing and what sort of tensioner is used? Automatic or manually adjusted eccentric? If the latter, how does one determine correct tension in the absence of the pukka tool?

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 08 Jul 2008, 18:50

Thanks Jim, thanks to all.

Another question, will running on flat spheres damage the shocks in any way?

Think I am gonna need to get me a BoL at some point.

Anything else not on that list? As you seem the man Jim, which bushes anywhere on the car should i be looking at replacing?

Post by **CitroJim** » 08 Jul 2008, 19:46

Hi Toby,

No, a flat acumulator will not damage anything apart from the pressure regulator but it will compromise the entire hydraulic system. Brakes may "pulse" during operation and the car might sink when stopped and so on.

Flat suspension spheres have been implicated in the failure of strut tops and because they make the ride bad, handling is compromised and everything on the car will be under more stress from shocks being tramsmitted through the structure.

Generally, suspension bushes are pretty reliable. The shoud be checked regularly, especially the front ones and again especially the "P" bushes on the front wishbones. They can be replaced with some degree of difficulty. It's a good idea to check the drop links but they usually let you know by clunking over bumps long before they fail. If your suspension is generelly free of clonks and clunks, you can be relatively happy that the bushes and droplinks are OK.

Yes, do get a BoL. The pictures are useful and it does give you a bit of knowledge and is a good adjunct to this forum. Ebay is often a good source for one at a good price.

reblack68 · Post by **reblack68** » 09 Jul 2008, 07:08

citrojim wrote:
What sort of a job is a cambelt on an HDi compared to an XUD? Does the pump need timing and what sort of tensioner is used? Automatic or manually adjusted eccentric? If the latter, how does one determine correct tension in the absence of the pukka tool?

The guy who did mine reckoned it was marginally easier to do than the XUD. The pump doesn't need timed and it's a manual tensioner. I've read before that these cambelt tension gauges are virtually impossible to use on an installed engine in any car and most people just judge the tension the old fashioned way.

GSF offer drop links at two prices. Buy the expensive ones when the time comes.

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 14 Jul 2008, 00:02

citrojim wrote:Hi Toby,

No, a flat acumulator will not damage anything apart from the pressure regulator but it will compromise the entire hydraulic system. Brakes may "pulse" during operation and the car might sink when stopped and so on.

Hi Jim,

I wouldn't be so sure of that - dead flat (punctured) accumulator spheres will put tremendous strain on the pump and the piping between the pump and the pressure regulator as the pressure pulses will be extremely high without the accumulator to absorb them, and it has been known to crack the pump housing, or burst the pipe between them on rare occasions on some models. It's definitely a "high risk" scenario even if you might get away with it sometimes.

An accumulator sphere should never be allowed to reach a punctured state for that and many other reasons..

In fact I believe this is the reason why the BX / Xantia added a short length of flexible high pressure line from the regulator even though it isn't strictly necessary from routing point of view (the ends of the flexible section are mounted in places that don't move relative to each other) - the flexible section is there to absorb the pressure spikes and provide a little bit of "give" so that a punctured accumulator sphere doesn't cause instant failure of the steel pipe from the pump to the regulator...

Regards,
Simon