Hi guys,
I put a replacement d/shaft on today but the car wouldn't move. As I suspected, the splines weren't engaged so I have taken the replacement off and checked it all again with the old worn one. Everything seems to be the same. My question is, is it possible to push the splined part in the transmission box back into the box so the shaft splines can't reach it?
I have stripped about 2mm of the ends of the shaft splines when I put it together 1st time and stared the engine to move a foot or so up my driveway.
Luckily the splines are not very bad, I guessed what was happening.
The replacemnet IS the same in dimensions as the old one which worked fine.
HELP!!!! please
Xantia 1.9TD front RH driveshaft woes.
Moderator: RichardW
Further to the above. I can't seem to get the bearing race to seat in it's housing ( the bearing in the middle of the shaft) so the shaft isn't going in far enough. I can't compare it to before because the original bearing is completely smashed to pieces.
Any tips, hints or new swear words will be very appreciated at this time.
Any tips, hints or new swear words will be very appreciated at this time.
did you undo the two hocky stick bolts which retain the intermediate bearing into the mountting before you removed the shaft, i usualy remove the two nuts completly, then knock the the shaft out by driftting against the collar at the gear box side of the mountting,
on re/fitting put the two bolts back in with the toe end of the hocky stick pointting outwards and wind the nuts on as fare as they will go by hand, slide the shaft back in as fare as it will go linning it up withthe diff as it goes, if not in fare enough at this point hold ablock of wood on the outer end of the CV joint stub and knock it in with a club hammer GENTLY BUT FIRM, now rotate the hocky stick bolts till they drop into there seats then do the nuts up to pull the bearing right into place
regards malcolm
on re/fitting put the two bolts back in with the toe end of the hocky stick pointting outwards and wind the nuts on as fare as they will go by hand, slide the shaft back in as fare as it will go linning it up withthe diff as it goes, if not in fare enough at this point hold ablock of wood on the outer end of the CV joint stub and knock it in with a club hammer GENTLY BUT FIRM, now rotate the hocky stick bolts till they drop into there seats then do the nuts up to pull the bearing right into place
regards malcolm
I did undo the hockey stick bolts and I also tried to use them to pull everything into place. I had to take it all apart 5 times and I still ended up using a fair bit of mallet force to get everything seated. Happily it is all done now and has had its test drive. It is now a far quieter and more comfortable drive,
If anyone from Haynes manuals is reading this and would like to contact me. I reckon I can write the "Haynes guide to appropriate swearwords", a must for every mechanic.
If anyone from Haynes manuals is reading this and would like to contact me. I reckon I can write the "Haynes guide to appropriate swearwords", a must for every mechanic.
Where you had great difficulty getting the driveshaft off, I've just spent two
evenings intermittently blatting the hell out of the half shaft/intermediate
bearing unsuccessfully attempting to get the damned thing out of an XM
2.1TD. I honestly believed someone in the past had used threadloc or loctite
to hold the thing as sheer bloody mindedness and brute force combined
with cunning, releasing oil and time still wouldn't budge it.
In the end, a 5lb lump hammer and a ball joint taper splitter wedged between
the CV inner knuckle and the bracket casting just managed to budge the
shaft - it still gripped on for all it's worth. On Cx's in the past, the driveshafts
would push out by finger pressure.
Crazy design!! I actually thought the thing was in for the duration!
BTW, everyone around these parts now knows some new swear words too...
Andrew
evenings intermittently blatting the hell out of the half shaft/intermediate
bearing unsuccessfully attempting to get the damned thing out of an XM
2.1TD. I honestly believed someone in the past had used threadloc or loctite
to hold the thing as sheer bloody mindedness and brute force combined
with cunning, releasing oil and time still wouldn't budge it.
In the end, a 5lb lump hammer and a ball joint taper splitter wedged between
the CV inner knuckle and the bracket casting just managed to budge the
shaft - it still gripped on for all it's worth. On Cx's in the past, the driveshafts
would push out by finger pressure.
Crazy design!! I actually thought the thing was in for the duration!
BTW, everyone around these parts now knows some new swear words too...
Andrew
Last edited by andmcit on 14 Jun 2008, 18:24, edited 1 time in total.
andmcit, I had trouble getting the driveshaft out at one point, luckily I had an old webbing belt which I put around the shaft just behind the lump of the inner CV joint and pulled with all my might. A piece of rope, tied like a hangmans noose wil probably do the same thing. You get a lot more grip.
Give that a go, but don't pull the car off of the axle stands/jack.
Obvious I know, but the little offset bolts are clear of the bearing I assume?
Give that a go, but don't pull the car off of the axle stands/jack.
Obvious I know, but the little offset bolts are clear of the bearing I assume?
Hi Keith - did get the damned thing off in the end - there's not a lot to grip
hold of so a noose may work though you're relying on a good purchase to
pull it whereas a mallet bashing it outwards from under the car as Malcolm
suggests seems the only 'firm' way of applying force!!
I don't understand why it has to be so tight as the lower wishbone/strut/
hub hold the driveshaft in.
Andrew
hold of so a noose may work though you're relying on a good purchase to
pull it whereas a mallet bashing it outwards from under the car as Malcolm
suggests seems the only 'firm' way of applying force!!
I don't understand why it has to be so tight as the lower wishbone/strut/
hub hold the driveshaft in.
Andrew