405 Radiator Compatibility

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 21 May 2008, 22:17

I've noticed the radiator on my 405 is looking corroded and is losing some water. It's a '96 1.9TD and I was thinking of just replacing it. My question is, do I need a radiator specifically for the 405, or would a radiator for any car with an XUD9 be suitable? E.g. could I pick up a radiator for a 1.9TD 306 for example? From my searching, it seems the clip type is the biggest problem?

Post by **myglaren** » 21 May 2008, 22:21

Chances are slim.
My son just got a 306 1.9 D Turbo with Aircon.
They tried 5 different (new) radiators before finding one to fit.

r.welfare · Post by **r.welfare** » 23 May 2008, 10:45

I paid £182 inc. VAT for a new rad for my '94 405 GLDT saloon (PAS but no a/c) a couple of months back, from a motor factor. Unfortunately I needed it quickly (the core had completely gone at the bottom, leading to lots of drips and steam in traffic!), otherwise I would have got one from eBay for £100 delivered.

Do you have the Peugeot Electronic Parts Catalogue? If not, I can dig out the Peugeot code - I think it's 1331.RF from memory, but might be wrong. Mine was the funny plastic clip type - the only thing stopping me from changing it myself, I couldn't shift the clips at all. Jubilee clips are much more sensible

Total bill including fitting was £400 from memory, my local garage charge £55/hr labour including VAT.

Don't forget to change the O-rings inside the connections too.

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 23 May 2008, 11:05

blo**y hell..

£400 to change a rad that steamed a bit...

For something like a 405, I would have thought a second hand rad for 15£ from ebay would have been ok?

I did fit a jubille type once to my bayonet pipework, by cutting the bayonet off and stretching the pipe over the older style union.. did this on Xantia too..

John

matt · Post by **matt** » 23 May 2008, 11:15

You will need one from a 405,i searched the scrap yards for similar rads on xantias etc but they all had small differences so wouldnt fit.Ended up buying a recon one for about £90

Make sure its for a td as its a lot thicker than non turbo or petrol ones.

ps,i have a spare if you are interested?

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 23 May 2008, 12:32

Thanks guys, that's a shame. There are a lot on ebay for various XUD engined cars and I was hoping I could get one cheap there. Matt I'll drop you a PM. I have the part number from the pug service website, it was 1301.JL as I recall.

citroen7 · Post by **citroen7** » 23 May 2008, 15:50

i changed the rad on my 1.9td with ac it cost £110 inc vat yes the bottom hose was a bit fiddly but took no time at all .I was of the same mind as i had a xantia td with ac but the connections are all different

speaking from experience get it changed asap i was hunting ebay for one just to save a few bob and the bloody thing let go and took the head gasket with it so dont delay do it today!!

r.welfare · Post by **r.welfare** » 27 May 2008, 20:41

jgra1 wrote:blo**y hell..

£400 to change a rad that steamed a bit...

No no, it was badly on the way out - losing about a litre every 20 miles! I just didn't have the time to fix it myself, as my estate was off the road following an altercation with a brick wall...anyway, it was the "twist clip" thing on the top hose that stumped me, the Haynes BoL seems to make it sound easy to remove; a tentative twist told me mine wasn't having any of it!

Found the invoice anyway, the Partco part number is PMA72717 if you struggle to match the Peugeot reference. I got charged 2.5hrs labour which is the Autodata book time, plus antifreeze and "environmental disposal" (cheeky b*ggers, I'm sure rads have a decent scrap value

) it came to £340.

greg123 · Post by **greg123** » 27 May 2008, 22:43

I have a brand new one, from a 1996 405 1.9TD with air-con running on veg.... fitted once but car wasn't put on the road after my friend who owned it decided it needed too much work doing to it. So it was removed.

£50 sounds right - I'll PM you.
Greg.

evilally wrote:I've noticed the radiator on my 405 is looking corroded and is losing some water. It's a '96 1.9TD and I was thinking of just replacing it. My question is, do I need a radiator specifically for the 405, or would a radiator for any car with an XUD9 be suitable? E.g. could I pick up a radiator for a 1.9TD 306 for example? From my searching, it seems the clip type is the biggest problem?

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 27 May 2008, 23:17

Thanks guys, Matt's spare was a suitable replacement so it's on it's way to me 8) Hopefully I'll be able to have a go at fitting it this weekend.

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 01 Jun 2008, 15:05

Got it fitted, what a bitch! I took the advised way of removing the bottom hose at the other end and removing it attached to the rad, but it wasn't easy. The hose clip was very awkward to get at and I had to buy another pair of locking pliers small enough to get at it. I would have taken the front to the car off a la Haynes, but all the nuts were badly corroded and I knew I'd be there all week.

I lubed the bottom hose up with some glycerol which made it much easier to feed back through the bottom bracket. I also snapped the bleed screw on the coolant hose, it really is fragile. I've used a bolt from one of the air intake hose brackets temporarily, it fits perfectly.

I've given it a short test run and it seems fine, I'm going to flush the system a couple of times as it seems to have some radweld or some other compound in it, I can see lots of tiny metal flakes.

Anyway thanks to Matt for the rad and everyone else for the advice

greg123 · Post by **greg123** » 01 Jun 2008, 17:19

Not easy cars to work on, but as you say can be done without taking the front end off.

If it's contaminated use a can of wynns pro coolant flush, it will search everything out and make sure no oil/rust deposits are left. Ignore instructions, put it in, drive a week, then flush out at least 2 or three times. If you can't drain/flush through the block (takes a bit of working out unless you remove the thermostat or there is a drain plug) then you'll need to drop the fluid you can get out of the rad and refill, then run it till the stat opens (top of rad suddenly gets hot), at which point the engine pumps all the engine water into the rad so drop the fluid again, refill, repeat about 5 times. Don't want crud or the caustic flushing agent in there long term.

You can use the 5 year 'pink' antifreeze if it's WELL flushed, so long as you never mix with any blue/green. Better protection for the alloy/head, but then at 50% mix (put in neat first half the system volume, top up with filtered or similar water) the blue stuff is just fine.

As a final touch I always add a can of Bars Leaks, it's an anti corrosion and anti leak additive and prevents those little rad or hose fitting 'weeps' from minor leaks, as well as protecting the system more. Gret stuff and it's NOT a cheap 'fix your leak' additive that blocks up hoses!

Greg.

evilally wrote:Got it fitted, what a bitch! I took the advised way of removing the bottom hose at the other end and removing it attached to the rad, but it wasn't easy. The hose clip was very awkward to get at and I had to buy another pair of locking pliers small enough to get at it. I would have taken the front to the car off a la Haynes, but all the nuts were badly corroded and I knew I'd be there all week.

I lubed the bottom hose up with some glycerol which made it much easier to feed back through the bottom bracket. I also snapped the bleed screw on the coolant hose, it really is fragile. I've used a bolt from one of the air intake hose brackets temporarily, it fits perfectly.

I've given it a short test run and it seems fine, I'm going to flush the system a couple of times as it seems to have some radweld or some other compound in it, I can see lots of tiny metal flakes.

Anyway thanks to Matt for the rad and everyone else for the advice

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405 Radiator Compatibility

405 Radiator Compatibility

Re: 405 Radiator Compatibility