Hi all,
I'm new to the forum and have had my Xantia 2.0 8v for 6 years, before that a BX19TRS for 7. Still can't decide if the BX was better...
Both have suffered from emulsion in the breathers, the Xantia having now developed a nice oil leak around the timing belt end of the engine. It's not a huge leak, just leaves a few spots everywhere I park!
I've changed the rocker cover gasket (one of the bolts seemed a bit loose to me), and was wondering - what next if that doesn't solve it? Are the camshaft and crank seals 'easy' (I realise that's a relative term!) I managed the clutch cable clip so I'm not afraid of twisty situations...
I've seen the FAQ post about changing the thermostat to cure the emulsion, so I'm planning on trying that as well.
Any advice gratefully received.
Nick
Xantia oil leaks & breathers
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Hi Nick,
Oh how I recall emulsion in XU engines
My old 205GTi used to look like it was part of the Hellmanns production line 
My 2.0L 8V, although not much used, never suffers from it. Maybe because it's a turbo it runs hot and the dreaded mayo never has a chance to form.
Seals, at the cambelt end, are relatively easy. Have you determined which seal is leaking yet?
In any case, it'll be necessary to slip off the cambelt and remove sprockets. then it's a case of pulling the old seal(s) out and gently drifting new ones in. A good tip for withdrawing the seals is to screw small self-tapping screws into the edges of the seals and use these screws to pull the old seal out. A large socket or specially fabricated mandrel will be needed to fit new ones. The Haynes Xantia BoL shows well how to do it on page 2A.22.
As you'll be having the crank pulley and cambelt off, replace the belt, water pump amd tensioner whilst you are there and NEVER rely on the crank pulley timing hole to be accurate. Chances are it will be a mile off as the outer of the pulley moves on the rubber damping band relative to the inner
Go to a scrap yard and grab a solid pulley from an early XU engine (I have one from a 205GTi) and use that as a timing gauge. The timing hole in the solid pulley is in the right place.
Are you sure the sump gasket or the head gasket is not the cause of the weep? The main pressure feed to the cam oil gallery is on the cambelt end of the head.
The thermostat change is a doddle. Two bolts on the thermostat housing, lift off, old 'stat out, new in with a new gasket ring, job done. Note that the 2.0L uses an 88 degree 'stat whereas the turbo uses an 82 degree one. Make sure you fit the 88 degree one as the colder one might make the mayo problem worse. Take great care to bleed the cooling system thoroughly after replacing the 'stat. You should have a brass bleed screw in the head and another on one of the heater matrix pipes by the elbow where they disappear into the bulkhead. To bleed, fill the expansing tank right up whilst squeezing the top hose with your hand to expel as much air as possible. Run up to temperature with the pressure cap off and with the thermostat open, release each bleed screw in turn until the coolnat is free of air, constantly topping up as necessary. With all air out, replace the pressure cap, take it for a spin, re-bleed, allow to cool right down and check the level. Job done.
Oh how I recall emulsion in XU engines
My old 205GTi used to look like it was part of the Hellmanns production line My 2.0L 8V, although not much used, never suffers from it. Maybe because it's a turbo it runs hot and the dreaded mayo never has a chance to form.
Seals, at the cambelt end, are relatively easy. Have you determined which seal is leaking yet?
In any case, it'll be necessary to slip off the cambelt and remove sprockets. then it's a case of pulling the old seal(s) out and gently drifting new ones in. A good tip for withdrawing the seals is to screw small self-tapping screws into the edges of the seals and use these screws to pull the old seal out. A large socket or specially fabricated mandrel will be needed to fit new ones. The Haynes Xantia BoL shows well how to do it on page 2A.22.
As you'll be having the crank pulley and cambelt off, replace the belt, water pump amd tensioner whilst you are there and NEVER rely on the crank pulley timing hole to be accurate. Chances are it will be a mile off as the outer of the pulley moves on the rubber damping band relative to the inner
Go to a scrap yard and grab a solid pulley from an early XU engine (I have one from a 205GTi) and use that as a timing gauge. The timing hole in the solid pulley is in the right place.
Are you sure the sump gasket or the head gasket is not the cause of the weep? The main pressure feed to the cam oil gallery is on the cambelt end of the head.
The thermostat change is a doddle. Two bolts on the thermostat housing, lift off, old 'stat out, new in with a new gasket ring, job done. Note that the 2.0L uses an 88 degree 'stat whereas the turbo uses an 82 degree one. Make sure you fit the 88 degree one as the colder one might make the mayo problem worse. Take great care to bleed the cooling system thoroughly after replacing the 'stat. You should have a brass bleed screw in the head and another on one of the heater matrix pipes by the elbow where they disappear into the bulkhead. To bleed, fill the expansing tank right up whilst squeezing the top hose with your hand to expel as much air as possible. Run up to temperature with the pressure cap off and with the thermostat open, release each bleed screw in turn until the coolnat is free of air, constantly topping up as necessary. With all air out, replace the pressure cap, take it for a spin, re-bleed, allow to cool right down and check the level. Job done.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Thanks for your reply Jim - you make it all sound very straightforward which is encouraging.
I've not worked out which seal is leaking yet. I went for the rocker cover first as it looked easiest and gave me little room for catastrophic mistakes.. There was oil around all four sides of the engine, running into the plug holes and down the block. I'm hoping the head gasket is OK as the leak looks to be from higher up than that, and the rocker gasket was in a sorry state when I took it off. I'm planning on giving it until later in the week to see if it settles down, then changing the 'stat at the weekend along with oil and coolant.
There is oil on the outside of the cambelt cover but not fresh - it looks like the usual grubby mess on engines that don't get cleaned.
Is it possible to see if the cam seal is leaking by taking the cambelt cover off?
If I decide that the best thing is to get the cam/crank seals changed along with a cambelt and water pump, what's a reasonable price? Sounds like a good day's work for me and I don't have a shed to keep it in until it's done.
Thanks again
Nick
I've not worked out which seal is leaking yet. I went for the rocker cover first as it looked easiest and gave me little room for catastrophic mistakes.. There was oil around all four sides of the engine, running into the plug holes and down the block. I'm hoping the head gasket is OK as the leak looks to be from higher up than that, and the rocker gasket was in a sorry state when I took it off. I'm planning on giving it until later in the week to see if it settles down, then changing the 'stat at the weekend along with oil and coolant.
There is oil on the outside of the cambelt cover but not fresh - it looks like the usual grubby mess on engines that don't get cleaned.
Is it possible to see if the cam seal is leaking by taking the cambelt cover off?
If I decide that the best thing is to get the cam/crank seals changed along with a cambelt and water pump, what's a reasonable price? Sounds like a good day's work for me and I don't have a shed to keep it in until it's done.
Thanks again
Nick
'94 Xantia 2.0 8v, 118k and not bad, ta
Got a bit further with this now so thought I'd post an update.
Cam cover seal changed last weekend but no discernable effect on the oil leak, the breather is still getting a bit of mayo in it but not so much now the weather is warming up.
So this weekend, change oil & filter, new 89 degree thermostat and new coolant. GSF seems to list a 83 deg stat for the 2.0 8v, so I had to go back and change it - serves me right for not checking at the counter. I tried to open the brass screw on the head to bleed the system, but it seems to turn the stubby connector which has a small thin hose attached to it, and as I don't know what that's for I didn't want to break it off. I did get coolant out of the heater hose bleed screw and (eventually) the one in the top hose after the thermostat, topped up and all seems fine.
Now for my next daft question - if the breathers have blocked and pressurised the oil, so that it leaks past some seals, are the seals likely to be permanently damaged or can I expect them to seal up again once the pressure is gone?
Cam cover seal changed last weekend but no discernable effect on the oil leak, the breather is still getting a bit of mayo in it but not so much now the weather is warming up.
So this weekend, change oil & filter, new 89 degree thermostat and new coolant. GSF seems to list a 83 deg stat for the 2.0 8v, so I had to go back and change it - serves me right for not checking at the counter. I tried to open the brass screw on the head to bleed the system, but it seems to turn the stubby connector which has a small thin hose attached to it, and as I don't know what that's for I didn't want to break it off. I did get coolant out of the heater hose bleed screw and (eventually) the one in the top hose after the thermostat, topped up and all seems fine.
Now for my next daft question - if the breathers have blocked and pressurised the oil, so that it leaks past some seals, are the seals likely to be permanently damaged or can I expect them to seal up again once the pressure is gone?
'94 Xantia 2.0 8v, 118k and not bad, ta