xantia mark 1 1.9turbo diesel fuel injection pump

[kevino]

Hi everybody,
i have had a bit of a problem with my fuel pump (Bosch) it has been leaking like a seive so i took it to a garage and had it replaced with a pump that i supplied, but, when i got the car back from the garage the car won't go over 1800 rpm and it keeps stalling ? the man at the garage says that it must be the pump that i have supplied ? I also had the cam belt changed at the same time, has anybody had a similar problem and what would you suggest to put it right? With the way that the car is at the momment it feels like it may be sucking in air into the fuel system due to the unevenness of the engine but that is just a guess.

many thanks kev

[evildiesels]

Can they verify that the Timing is bang on??

A couple of quick things to check - try disconecting the throttle cable from the pump and then manually reving to see if it reaches max revs, maybe the cable is badly adjusted/fitted wrong etc, Also if it's fitted with an external stop lever make sure it is in the full run position.

If all that seems ok, have a look at and make sure no one has slackened off the full load adjustment screw, (backed it out) or that no one has fiddled with the throttle arm adjustments, (each end of the throttle arm) if you aren't sure where these adjustments are located on the IP get your local diesel shop or garage that done the job to check for ya.

Good luck mate, let us kow how ya get on

[kevino]

Hi Evildiesels,
the guy at the garage, showed me that he had adjusted the fuel load to give the car maximum fuel and i tried the throttle at the pump and there is no difference, i pushed the throttle lever all the way to maximum and theres no difference.
A quick observation that i made today, as you look at the engine the last injector on the right is seaping fuel and when i took the small nipple cover off the injector it looked like there was air coming out of the nipple as well as fuel, I'm thinking of trying to put a piece of see through pipe between the fuel filter and the pump (temporarily) to see if i am sucking in air somewhere in the fuel line.

cheers kev

[Peter.N.]

You'r thinking along the right lines Kev.

[evildiesels]

Bummer, not a nice easy fix aye! The air in the return fuel doesn't sound too good, your idea of the clear line is good thinking, before you get into that another and quick thing to check is - with the engine off, squeeze the primer bulb and keep squeezing till it starts getting harder to squeeze, and keep going (that will pressurise the fuel system from the bulb to the I.P.) if there is any obvious leaks it should start weeping from the leak source, i.e. filter housing etc, that way you have eliminated from the primer bulb forward, if you find a leak that will be the air intake point as the I.P. has an internal vane pump that does its sucking and any leak while squeezing the primer bulb will be an air intake point with the engine running and the pump sucking.
Strange how it's just happend from a pump change, let us know how ya get on mate and good luck

[kevino]

hi Evildiesels,
I certainly will keep you informed it may be a few days, due to the weather and i haven't got garage facities.

Cheers kev

[evildiesels]

Hey Kev, just a quick thing too dude, when you are pumping the primer it should get firm to squeeze in around 5 - 10 pumps, if not make sure they haven't used the wrong banjo bolt in the fuel return fitting (may have taken the fuel in banjo bolt from the old pump or something like that or swapped them round i.e. resricted banjo bolt in the inlet position), it should have a restricted fitting in it so the internal pump can raise the internal pressure to required psi - worth a look to satisfy your self, easy too do as well, 17mm socket and pop it off and have a look at the end of it, will have an orrifice etc, good luck mate

P.S. Autum here and glorious sun for the last 2 weeks with another month of sun predicted hahaha

Cheers

[CitroJim]

Air is certainly the most likely cause of all of this. One thing to bear in mind is that early MK1s had a fully mechanical pump and later Mk1s from about '96 on used a very similar looking pump with electronic timing control.

Now, it is possible to replace the later pump with the earlier one and do away with the electronics but it is not possible to use the later semi-electronic pump in place of a fully mechanical one. What will happen is the timing will default to a fully retarded setting, which is the fail-safe ECU failure mode of the pump for a "limp-home" function. You may be able to statically time the pump to apparantly the correct position but you'll not have have automatic advance with increasing engine speed.

If the timing is out, the engine will sound very quiet if it is retarded and will knock badly if over advanced. If retarded, the engine will also smoke a bit.

Worth a check to ensure it is the right pump that has been used.

[kevino]

Hi Guy's thanks for all of your help it's Sunday evening and the weather is looking good for tomorow, i am just printing off everybodies advice and i will run through it tomorow at the car and see if i can make any difference to the car, i will also be taking the timing belt cover off to see if i can get all of the bolts into the correct timing belt locking positions, just one question is there an 8mm hole to lock the fly wheel into place at TDC? and if so do i have to remove the starter motor to get to it?

Cheers Kev

[CitroJim]

just one question is there an 8mm hole to lock the fly wheel into place at TDC? and if so do i have to remove the starter motor to get to it?

Hi Kev,

Yes there is and it's vital you use it. You may be lucky and be able to spot it behind the starter if you know roughly where to look toward the top of the starter. However, it is normally an easy job to pop the starter off so I'd recommend you do that. The hole is often full of crud.

I use a piece of old copper brake pipe as a timing pin. The advantage is that it can be bent all shapes to slip behind the starter and find the hole.

In any and every case, disconnect the battery first as you're very near the starter power feed.

[kevino]

Hi Jim,
thanks for the advice about the starter motor and the timing hole. I have today found a supplier of the seals for the leaking fuel pump and this evening I am feeling very pleased with myself after stripping down the fuel pump that i had taken off my Xantia due to it leaking. I followed the instructions as described in the how to strip a bosch pump article on this site and all has gone well so far, I have the seals out, and am going to pick up a new set tomorow to rebuild the pump.
I tried everything that was suggested in the replies and nothing seems to be working so this is why I am now going to swap pumps for the old one with refurbished seals. I'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers kev

[CitroJim]

Well done Kev, Good effort

Keep us all updated on how it goes

[kevino]

Hi Everybody,
I located a source for the seals on an industrial estate just south of Chester, I couldn't believe the price I bought the main seal which goes between the lid and the main body also the throttle shaft seal and the timing seal and all for a princly sum of £3.51 and they are genuine Bosch parts.

Kev

[myglaren]

Might be handy to post the name and address of that company here kevino.

Could save people a lot of hassle trying to track them down and a company that charges reasonable prices deservs all the business it can get.

[kevino]

Mi everybody,
sorry to have not posted the name of the company that i bought the seals from, how thoughtless of me, anyway here it is below.

Direct diesel injection services ltd, broughton mills road, bretton, chester, ch4 0by. telephone 01244 660787 or fax 01244 661297.

cheers kevino