Nearside front brake pipe

steviewonder7 · Unread post by **steviewonder7** » 20 Mar 2008, 17:46

Hi Folks,
Would appreciate a little help on this one ,if you would be so kind,as per usual

I've discovered that the m.o.t examiner has missed the fact that I have a cracking (for want of a better description) nearside front rubber brake hose.
You may notice that these brake hoses over a period of years seem to keep a basic shape and when I went to look at mine and ,lets say, inverted the hose,to my horror,

the hose revealed serveral deep serations.
The brake hose was not leaking though and obviously I need to replace this a.s.a.p. I had a go at this ,but could I release the rubber hose, and seperate it from the steel brake line at the union

could I heck.
The 7mm/8mm pipe nut began to round so I stopped there before it go worse.I fear I'm going to have to destroy the pipe to enable me to renew the brake hose.

>the only thing is,I cannot see where the other end of the steel brake line goes to.I assume it goes to some kind of junction block on the bulkhead.
Would some kind soul do me a favour and tell me what I'm doing wrong or let me know where this brake line is destined to go so I can remove it.

Are there any serviable diags about for my beady eyes to peruse??

As usual I look forward to your reply's with interest.Thanks in advance Steve

steviewonder7 · Unread post by **steviewonder7** » 20 Mar 2008, 17:56

DOH the title heading meant to read Nearside front brake Pipe

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 20 Mar 2008, 19:10

Hi Steve,

Ahh, I know your problem so well. The steel to rubber union is actually totally standard and does not use a rubber hydraulic seal but yes, getting that union nut undone

You must use a good hex split-ring brake pipe spanner (The sort with a single hex head with a slot cut so it can slip over the steel pipe). Nothing else will do.

The problem you're up against is that corrosion will have set in between the pipe and union nut, holding them tightly together. Clean it up as much as you can and then soak the pipe and nut in Plus-Gas (not WD-40, you need the pukka stuff for this) and leave it to work it's magic.

A good spanner and time will do the trick but do leave a few hours for the Plus-Gas to do its job.

You may also find the other end of the flexi tight. Chop of the rubber part near the caliper end union and use a ring spanner on it; an open-ender will just slip round the hex.

Clean up the bleed nipple and douse it in Plus-Gas before cracking it open with a good, slim 8mm ring spanner. Bleed nipples rarely shear due to the protective effects of LHM but it still pays to take care with them.

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 20 Mar 2008, 19:57

Free forum service : header title spelling corrected

You can btw use the EDIT button appearing in the upper right corner of your posting. That will bring you back to the raw text you initially typed in, and from there you can do the usual things.

steviewonder7 · Unread post by **steviewonder7** » 20 Mar 2008, 21:53

Thanks for correcting the title Anders, I learn something every day.

Citrojim.....Thanks for your input,I'll give the plusgas a go.I think this time Ill
have to use mulgrips on the pipe union though.dont think I'll get any form of spanner on the union

Regards Steve