1.9Td Engine Change

[elma]

Haven't found a car I want yet so it is engine change time now.

Got a few questions though,

Haynes says engine and box come out together,
is that true? Can I leave the gearbox in the car?

Will there be any differences in fitting the new engine?
It's from a 1994 1.9Td Vsx
Mine is 1994 1.9Td Lx

I know I'll have to use my old Lhm pump and pressure regulator.

Will anything else be different?
The diesel pump has a sensor on top of it that mine doesn't.
I want to keep the oil temp guage and ext temp guage from it though.

Is the heater matrix pipe that needs seperating the one that is difficult and can snap?

What else should I be weary of and are there any must have tools which I probably don't have yet?

[CitroJim]

Hi Elma,

The engine and gearbox is best taken out as one lump. The gearbox cannot remain behind as it will have no mountings. Note that it is necessary to tilt the engine down at the gearbox end quite considerably to lift it out. Use a good crane, remove the bonnet, disconnect everything and out she'll come. I'd recommend you remove completely the the gearbox mount from the end of the gearbox as it'll catch on the chassis member and may damage a couple if hydraulic pipes.

The old and new engine you have are very, very similar. It sounds like the new engine has the later Bosch semi-electronic pump. This needs an ECU and keypad to operate so I'd swap it with your old pump otherwise you're into electrical complications. On the new engine you may find a vacuum pump on the end of the camshaft housing that your old engine does not have. This will be for powering the EGR and fast idle solenoids. You can either just leave it in-situ doing nothing or take the blanking plate from your old engine and doing away with it.

Your old engine will have the waxstat fast idle control. You could transfer thermostat housings over but I'd not worry about fast idle. 99% of the time the waxstat is duff and it's not really required.

Yes, I'm given to understand the heater matrix elbow is a delicate little flower. Heating it helps I believe. Take care with it and use new O rings on it when putting it all back together.

Put a new clutch in and do all the routine jobs like new cambelt and waterpump whilst the engine and gearbox are out. So much easier to do at that time, especially the clutch. Give the new engine and the engine bay a good wash so it is all nice an sparkly clean whilst you have the ideal opportunity.

You will find the pressure Regulator/FDV has a lot of pipes and you don't really want to disconnect all these but it will tie far enough out of the way to allow the engine out. You'll have to disconnect the main feed into the FDV from the HP pump though and use a new seal when you come to reconnect the pipe.

Note that non-aircon engines and those fitted with aircon have different sumps, different alternator and different HP pump mountings. Also, the HP pumps themselves are likely to be different if the newer engine came out of an antisink car.

Hope that helps. I'm sure there is more to say. I'm sure this thread will develop into a very useful engine swap guide!

[myglaren]

What sort of problems are involved in swapping the fuel pumps over - I have been led to believe that they are matched in the factory and are the very devil to match up on a s/h, diy basis?

[elma]

What sort of problems are involved in swapping the fuel pumps over - I have been led to believe that they are matched in the factory and are the very devil to match up on a s/h, diy basis?

If both cars are locked up properly should be no issue with regard to timing, but will be checked and adjusted later with a guage and someone who knows how to use it.

Issues I see are that the Vsx pump is turned up for higher fuel delivery than the Lx one. Also the Lx has smaller bore injectors than the Vsx.

The pump and turbo will need setting up by someone who has the correct equipment, but will run anyway so will do for now.

The old pump isn't electric Jim, definately no keypad, it has the wax thing as well.
I've always thought it was the throttle sensor for the vsx brain.


Do you know how much a clutch cable is from citroen???


£42.50!!!!!!

Whats a good make of clutch cable that isn't citroen?

[CitroJim]

What sort of problems are involved in swapping the fuel pumps over - I have been led to believe that they are matched in the factory and are the very devil to match up on a s/h, diy basis?

Nothing factory matched as far as I know. This may have arisen from a Lucas to Bosch swap where you need pump, pipes and injectors.

Mechanical pumps are OK. I've swapped a semi-electronic for a mechanical with no real issues. Timing is very critical on the mechanical pumps and it is best to mark carefully where the pump was on the old engine and use these same marks on the new engine. I used the imprints of the mounting nut washers last time. It is said to be a good idea to transfer over the pump complete with its cast alloy carrier to get the timing absolutely spot-on. In any case, the timiong can be set reasonably closely by a trained ear but if you carefully mark as you go and take care, no worries.

The important thing to note is to do up the pump mountings really tightly and make sure the washers are in place. They vibrate in service and less than tight nuts will soon loosen off...

[CitroJim]

Do you know how much a clutch cable is from citroen???


£42.50!!!!!!

Whats a good make of clutch cable that isn't citroen?

GSF ones are OK Elma...

[CitroJim]

The old pump isn't electric Jim, definately no keypad, it has the wax thing as well.
I've always thought it was the throttle sensor for the vsx brain.

No wories then. Just leave the sensor disconnected for now, it'll run without it for test purposes.

Has your old pump got a microswitch on top of it? If so, this should be transferred over as it controls the glowplug post heating and cold start advance.

[elma]

Thanks Jim.

It's a nightmare finding these bits.

Best price for a decent clutch kit at the minute is £70 (Delphi)

Gates Belt Kit £40.00
Already got a nice alt belt.

Q/H Water pump £20

The silly plastic clip for the clutch is £10

I need the nylon bushes for the gear box lever as well, £2.60 not bad

Then theres the gear linkage which is really sloppy,
New engine already gave its one away so thats £12 to £40 depending on the number of knackered bits. Don't want it from a scrap yard either, gear shift must feel like a new car.

Looks like this will cost about £200!
Once its serviced as well.
Should be worth it, the new engine is very strong.

Just leaves me worried about the ball joint and the rear arms, guess balljoint will be easy and rear arms can wait for summer holiday.
I should've got that door for it when I had the chance.

[elma]

No wories then. Just leave the sensor disconnected for now, it'll run without it for test purposes.

Has your old pump got a microswitch on top of it? If so, this should be transferred over as it controls the glowplug post heating and cold start advance.

No idea about the micro switch.

I will be swapping the pumps over though as the guy the engine is from wants it for his car. If I do have one it'll be coming with.

[CitroJim]

Elma, one thing. You'll need to remove both driveshafts before you start. It'll be a help if you at least loosen the hub nuts first of all before doing anything else. They can be an absolute swine to do later in the job. Loosen them with the roadwheels still on the ground.

[elma]

Thats a good thing as I also have to do a cv boot on the dificult side.
They are buggers to undo though.

[bigjl2]

Before you get involved in an engine change there is a hdi for sale in the for sale section, for £250, it might be a better bet, as it is newer, the seller is over your side of the world, south wales. It is mixing oil and water, but a head gasket must be easier than an engine swap, and the hassle of swapping diesel pumps etc, worth a look.