Blow by Blow: 1.9TD Clutch Change

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CitroJim
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Blow by Blow: 1.9TD Clutch Change

Post by CitroJim »

The job has started :D and in between helping a friend fix a 53 year old valve radio, good progress has been made.

I'll update this as the job progresses. The job is being done on my very early MK1 sinking Xantia 1.9TD and things may be different for later 1.9TDs.

Start off by jacking up and securing the front very firmly on axle stands. let the suspension come down onto low and depressurise. Chock the rear wheels.

Remove both roadwheels, or at least loosen off the wheelnuts.

Remove the battery, airbox, air trunking, airbox carrier and the plastic cover over the gearbox. This is a bit tricky but can be done after disconnecting the connectors to the TDC sensor, VSS, oil level sensor and reversing light switch.

Disconnect the clutch cable. Disconnect the heavy earth wire on top of the gearbox.

Remove the starter motor. You need to do this to easily get to a couple of the pressure regulator mounting bolts.

Disconnect the speedo cable (if fitted) and pop off the three gearchange linkages.

Remove all but one bolt (5 in total) holding the pressure regulator/accumulator block to the gearbox. Leave one bolt in loosely to keep it supported until you remove the gearbox. On my Xantia, the pressure regulator will just move forward enough to clear the 'box for removal I think but time will tell! I'm working on the belief at the moment that the regulator can be tied up out of the way when the time comes.

Relase the clip that anchors a hydraulic pipe on the end of the gearbox.

After all that has come off, you have good access to the 'box and just sufficent access to get at the gearbox end mount nut without needing to remove the LHM reservior or the ABS block :D :D

I've already found the cause of the problem on my clutch. The top bush on the clutch release shaft has gone AWOL (slipped down the shaft actually) so there is no top support. That's why even at maximum cable adjustment, the cluitch would only just release right on the bottom of the pedal travel..

If the weather holds, part 2 tomorrow :)

MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

Excellent! Does that mean you only need to replace the bush rather than the clutch plates?

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Post by CitroJim »

MikeT wrote:Excellent! Does that mean you only need to replace the bush rather than the clutch plates?
In theory Mike, yes, but to not replace the clutch complete whilst it is all in bits might be false economy in the long-run, being it is our caravan tug. After all, the mileage is 188000 now so it's got to be a bit worn and besides, it judders badly when towing and going up Porlock Hill (Hairpin bends on a 1:4 gradient) in the summer it fairly stank from slipping :D :D

But yes, an otherwise perfect clutch, no problems. In fact I got hold of the bush through the inspection holes in the side of the bellhousing and pushed it part way back up so with a bit more enthusiasm, if one finds this is the problem it might well be possible to do it without removing the gearbox, maybe. I'll know more on that one when the 'box is off.

KP
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Post by KP »

Sounds good there, a good afternoon and early evenings work ;)

I've seen it mentioned before that its not the clutch plate that causes the issue but the springs that give up in the end, wonder if you can confirm this when yours is on the floor??

Have you got a replacement from ebay or gsf??

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Post by MikeT »

I know what you mean Jim, it would have to be pretty much pristine to warrant not changing the parts. Talking of judder, how was the earth strap fasteners when you removed it. Anything noteworthy? 8)

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Post by CitroJim »

KP wrote:I've seen it mentioned before that its not the clutch plate that causes the issue but the springs that give up in the end, wonder if you can confirm this when yours is on the floor??
Will do :) Hopegfully I'll be able to answer that more fully tomorrow :lol:
KP wrote:Have you got a replacement from ebay or gsf??
GSF. A genuine OE Citroen branded Valeo complete with clutch alignment tool :D
MikeT wrote:Talking of judder, how was the earth strap fasteners when you removed it. Anything noteworthy?
The earth termination was tight and shiny Mike, no problem there at all.

elma
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Post by elma »

Good thread Jim, invaluable really.

It's a job I'll be having to do over the next year and I'm really not looking forward to it.

Or the cambelt actually, it's done six months for me and is god knows how old. I think I'm on borrowed time.

Better get some of this stuff done.

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Post by CitroJim »

Day two, good result. I now have a gearbox safely sitting on the garage floor :D

I started by extracting the pin holding the clutch operating arm to the shaft. This arm has to come off the shaft to enable the shaft to rotate sufficiently anti-clockwise to release its forks from the release bearing as you draw the gearbox off the engine. Without removing
the arm, it just cannot be done.

That pin is in tight :twisted: A very good method I found was to give it a tiny drink of Plus Gas and then clamp a pair of Mole Grips onto the head of the pin and then, using a drift applied to the throat of the Mole Grip jaws, give the drift some sharp taps with a hammer. Do protect the rad from potential damage though. The pin came out easily enough and the arm followed with a bit of coaxing.

The pressure regulator on the early Xantia has the FDV (Flow Distribution Valve) mounted above it and is rather a large lump. An anti-sink Xantia will be rather easier here.

However, I freed a number of "P" clips holding hydraulic lines to the PR/FDV so that those pipes could move around reasonably freely. I then tied up the PR/FDV out of the way of the gearbox. In retrospect I wish I'd taken the trouble to remove it, life would have been easier later. I will remove it before replacing the gearbox as it's generally a bit weepy and never ticks, only hisses, so it could do with some TLC.

Although it looks as if it won't cause a problem, do remove the clutch cable inner anchor frame from the gearbox. It will foul a hydraulic pipe if left on even though it looks like it'll make a good handle for holding the 'box later.

Next, off came the roadwheels. I then draind the gearbox oil. Whilst it was draining I split the two lower balljoints. Clean up the threads with a wire brush and dunk them in Plus Gas before trying to undo them. I also sprayed the bolts holding the LH mudshield ready for its removal.

Take care not to damage the rubber boots when splitting the lower balljoints and use a high quality balljoint splitter (thanks MikeT, your donation to the toolkit does a wonderful job!).

Pull the LH driveshaft partially out of the gearbox. Very easy, it might even come out on its own. If you're doing a Rolls-Royce job, removing the LH driveshaft completely makes life a little easier but it's by no means necessary.

Not so the RH driveshaft. This driveshaft has an imtermediate bearing and the bearing must be released from its housing before the driveshaft will come out of the gearbox. Undo the two 11mm "Hockey-Stick" bolt nuts about three parts of the way along their threads. Then push each in and rotate them through 90 degrees. These bolts retain the bearing in the housing and have an "L" shaped head on them.

The intermediate bearing will be tight in its housing and will need persuasion to come out. Start with some Plus Gas and gently use a pry-bar between the bearing housing and the inner CV joint. If the bearing and driveshaft does not move, apply a soft drift to the collar on
the driveshaft behind the bearing and carefully tap with a heavy hammer whilst rotating the driveshaft. Go back to the pry-bar and repeat until the bearing gives up the fight and the driveshaft slides out of the gearbox. Don't bother to pull the driveshaft fully out, half-way is perfect. It'll come the rest of the way when you remove the gearbox.

Loosen the three Hex bellhousing bolts a little so they won't put up a fight later. Remove the 6mm Allen bellhousing bolt adjacent to the speedo drive housing on the diff. This one faces the opposite way to the others.

Now the fun bit. Take a look to ensure that everything is disconnected from the 'box and that there is noting to stop it dropping down to the ground. Carefully jack up under the engine (on the sump edge) to take the weight of the engine and gearbox.

Loosen the 18mm nut on top of the gearbox mount under the ABS block whilst ensuring the jack is taking the weight. If the nut is tight it's not. Once initially loosened, the nut should be finger tight. Run the nut neary to the top of its thread.

Using an engine crane, attach a length of stout rope via a "D" shackle to the front top) gearbox lifting eye. This lifting eye represents the point of perfect balance for the 'box.

Take the strain on the crane and confirm the strain is taken. Then remove the 18mm gearbox mount nut and recover its washer.

Ensure the LH driveshaft inner CV joint and shaft are out of the way and not likely to get trapped as the gearbox comes down.

Let down the jack supporting the sump about 2 inches. Let the crane down so that the engine and gearbox falls by about a couple of inches so that the gearbox mount threaded shaft is nearly clear of the mount rubber. Now undo the two 18mm bolts (they'll be tight) holding the
mount bracket to the gearbox. Let the crane down a tad more and remove the mount bracket complete from the gearbox. This really gives a lot more clearance to play with and avoids potential damage to two hydraulic pipes (the PAS pipes) that run along the bottom of the chassis rail near the end of the gearbox.

Let the crane down a bit more and sight-check you have clearance under the chassis rail to pull the box about 6 inches outward. Once happy, bring the jack under the sump back up to take the strain. Ensure now the jack and crane are taking the strain equally.

Check again for potential obstructions and undo a little way the three remaining bellhousing bolts. If they are tight then you've not got the strain taken equally on the jack and crane.
Once happy, remove the bolts. Insert a small bar in the clutch release shaft hole. Pull the gearbox off the engine about 1/2" or until it stops. Rotate the bar anti-clockwise whilst pulling the 'box back to disengage the release shaft forks from the release bearing. Now carry on pulling the box back as far as possible and at the same time very gently letting the crane down. Always checking for any obstructions or impediments, carefully manoeuvre the box to the ground. You'll need to rotate it backwards so the diff clears the subframe and ensure the LH driveshaft is clear.

Remove the crane rope and recover the gearbox from under the car and move to safe storage. Tie up the LH driveshaft and put something (I used oil-proof latex gloves) over the ends of the driveshafts to protect them.

Ensure the engine is safely supported for the duration. I recommend not using a jack for this but to use the engine crane to lift the engine slightly and place an axle stand uner the sump.

Part three to follow.That'll be the clutch itself. All this work so far has been to simply gain access to the clutch!!!

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CitroJim
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Post by CitroJim »

I pulled the clutch apart today and found it was in pretty good nick overall and would perhaps have lasted another 20 or 30K without much bother :)

There is nothing to taking off the clutch pressure plate, evenly unscrew 6 5mm hex head bolts and prise a bit and the cover and plate are in your hand.

I also got new top and bottom release shaft bushes today from our local Citroen dealer (Evans Halshaw in Stony Stratford) who, incidentially is well recommended. I called the parts man at 9 'ish this morning with part numbers and they were in by 4PM. Total cost £2.52 :D

The problem with my old top bush was the trapizoid shaped top locating spigot had broken, allowing the bush to fall down the shaft. I now realise I could have replaced it without having the 'box off :twisted: But having said that I needed to check the clutch condition anyway and the bottom bush is pretty well worn as well and this one can't be so easily replaced.

Reassembly will commence soon...

RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

Jim,

Replace the input shaft seal while you're there - you don't want it to leak, and you can buy it for <£10 complete with the shaft bush the release bearing slides along - prevents any binding up of the release bearing on the new clutch. Clutch I replaced on our ZX TD and made sure I greased the (replaced!) pivots and input shaft bearing is still pretty light 2 years and 20k later.

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Post by XantiaMan »

God you love to type :lol:

uncle buck
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Post by uncle buck »

Would it not be wise at this stage to whip the flywheel off & replace the crankshaft oil seal behind it....I think I would if it were my car & I planned on keeping it for a while longer! :wink:

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Post by CitroJim »

XantiaMan583 wrote:God you love to type :lol:
And talk like that too Gareth :lol: :lol: :lol:
RichardW wrote:Replace the input shaft seal while you're there
Good thinking Richard, It is a bit weepy on inspection..
uncle buck wrote:Would it not be wise at this stage to whip the flywheel off & replace the crankshaft oil seal behind it....
The seal is 100% oil tight on inspection, in fact the flywheel is quite rusty because it's so dry so that one I shall leave this time but it would be very wise to eplace it if any doubt at all existed over its condition. It's dead easy whilst the 'box is off but dead difficult thereafter. It's vital to replace the flywheel studs if you do. They come pre-coated with Loctite..

I made one error in my second post. I forgot to mention removing the lower bellhousing cover :oops: Two 10mm studs. Best to do that whilst you're underneath taking the Allen headed bellhousing bolt out.

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Post by CitroJim »

There has been no progress for a few days due to a shoulder and neck injury :( Not sure what happened but woke up with it on Wednesday after going to bed on Tuesday absolutely perfect. It has only just got more or less good and the weather has broken just when I could recommence :evil:

As soon as the weather gets better I'll be back to it. Wednesday loks promising...

jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

rain later in week Jim...
Tue/Weds may be best

good luck.. :lol:

Yesterday I 'craned' a spare TD engine and gearbox into the Xant boot ;) .. twin engined 3.8 litre TD.. in my dreams...

Sometime after my right hand was useless.. strained the forearm muscle but didn;t even notice at the time... :(

John

ps pleased the forum is up to speed !