Hi guys. I have a 94L 2.0i 8v Xantia with a more than likely blown head gasket. Symptoms are creamy gunge all down the dipstick and in the last week it has drunk all the water - I've also noticed a lot of steam coming from the exhaust for the first ten minutes in the mornings over the last month or so which I mistakenly put down to the cold weather!
It hasn't overheated, in fact it has always run at 70-80ish, and it still appears to run perfectly well - no noticeable loss of power though it has been low mpg for quite a while, but that could be a non related problem?
So... with no money to spend the question is, just how practical is a gasket change for an amateur to attempt? I've got Haynes BOL but would rather hear from someone who has done it as to what 'challenges'I can expect. The biggest problem that I can see is getting underneath to get the exhaust manifold nuts off. The rest is obviously plain sailing...
You do have the symptoms of a failed HG. Was/is the radiator expansion tank full of white gunge as well?
Yep, the manifold nuts won't be easy but not as bad as you may think. Plus Gas is your friend. You may find the exhaust manifold itself harder to remove from the head. If you're lucky you can leave the exhaust manifold in place and lift the head off complete.
Replace the "brillo pad" exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket on reassembly.
Actually, an 8V head gasket job is not too bad at all. Timing belt off, right-hand engine mount off, inlet manifold off, undo the 10 head studs and it should be plain sailing. Watch the head studs though. They've been there a long time and my object slightly to being moved. Use a long breaker bar and apply steady torque to them. They may well feel springy as they're stretch bolts. If they feel springy, hold the torque on them and let the bolts sort of follow themselves round and unscrew themselves against the torque you're applying. Attack them too hard and not giving them time to do this can make them shear off in disgust and then you've got fun.
When removing the head studs, thake very careful note of which spacers are on which bolt and make sure they go back in the right places. Several blocks have been ruined in the past because the wrong spacers were used in the wrong place. You risk a break-through into a waterway.
You'll most likely find the old HG has died from old age and is blowing between cylinders 2 and 3
You must have the head lightly skimmed once it is off and is £25 well spent. Also take the opportunity to lap in the valves (only 8!) and check/resent the valve clearances. Also renew the valve stem oil seals.
Take especial care to follow exactly the head stud tightening sequence and method when refitting the head and also take great care to clean out the stud threads in the block with a tap or an old head bolt with flutes cut in it. If you neglect to do this, your stage one and two tightening torques will not be correct and you risk over or under tightening down the head when doing the final angle-tighten.
Renew the timing belt and water pump whilst it is all in bits and the thermostat too. Take an opportunity to check your timing belt tensioners.
There are no particular traps to watch for and is not a bad job. Take your time though.
The Haynes BoL covers the job reasonably well, a BX or Pug 205 or 405 BoL even better!
Hi citrojim thanks for that. There is no expansion tank on mine but what was left of the water seemed clear enough.
I hadn't considered that a head skim would be needed, and given the other jobs you mention, water pump etc. plus I've now got yet another LHM leak, I might retire it. I'll probably flush it out, refill with oil and run it until I can get something newer.
I only paid £300 for it 2 years ago, so I've probably had my money's worth.
Oh dear, another early MK1 off to Xantia heaven soon then
I see your point though, even just for bits, you will be forking out nearly as much as you paid for the car. To repair depends on general condition, how much residual MOT and so on.
