BX's pressure regulator replacing

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FrankBo
Posts: 26
Joined: 03 Jan 2005, 02:05
Location: Italy
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BX's pressure regulator replacing

Post by FrankBo »

Hi, my BX 1600 92' have fast ticking HP pump (about 5/6 seconds); yesterday i disconnected return pipes to LHM reservoir and i discovered the pipe from pressure regulator returned a lot of LHM. When i bought my BX a Citroen specialist said me fast ticking was due to pressure regulator. I bought one years ago a pressure regulator which runs well, and i want fit it.

May be there is another reason causing fast ticking? i think i'll go to garage
next week to replace pressure regulator.

thanks
Last edited by FrankBo on 23 Sep 2007, 21:50, edited 2 times in total.
95' ZX 1400 Break Avantage 270000 Km 92' BX 1600 Athena 167000 Km
slim123
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Joined: 20 Jul 2006, 22:49
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Post by slim123 »

Hi Frank.

I very much doubt if the regulator is at fault, just the main accumulator sphere I suspect, change that first before going for the regulator, it will cost a lot less.

The trouble with a lot of garages is that they replace the accumulator and regulator complete and it does cure the problem, the customer is happy as his car no longer ticks away, but they could have cured it by just changing the sphere.

Regards
Slim,
FrankBo
Posts: 26
Joined: 03 Jan 2005, 02:05
Location: Italy
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Post by FrankBo »

Hi Slim,

After i bought my BX i recharged all spheres (4 suspension and 1 accumulator) by Tecnosir valves system but fast ticking was unchanged;
than i replaced main accumulator sphere by a new Citroen original sphere,
but i had not results. Since pressure regulator return pipe returns a lot of LHM, i think replace pressure regulator may solve.

Another thing is that when starting the car, it came up in front and than
rear, but the correct run is rear first ........
95' ZX 1400 Break Avantage 270000 Km 92' BX 1600 Athena 167000 Km
citronut
Posts: 10937
Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
Location: United Kingdom east sussex
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x 92

Post by citronut »

try reseatting the ball bearing which is in the bleed valve on the regulator, i have never done this but there are various posts on here explainning how to do this, i belive you remove the bleed screw with a small tray under the regulator so you dont loos the ball bearing, and with the ball bearing in place use a copper drift to strick it, then refit the the bleed screw
regards malcolm
jeremy
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Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
Location: Hampshire, UK
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x 2

Post by jeremy »

There are 3 ways that LHM can get out of the accumulator chamber - onwards to the safety valve as intended, down a worn centre piston/valve and back the way it came. The inlet is controlled by a non-return valve which is a simple ball bearing - and after a while it wears its seat.

The good news is that it can be re-seated. Remove the accumulator sphere - remove the plate that is now visible (10 mm bolt) and be ready to catch the ball bearing that may fall out. Stick the ball back with a dab of grease and tap it once smartly using a BRASS punch. Re-assemble.

You must not use a steel punch - if you do you may put a flat on the ball and it will not seal. You must only strike it once - more will produce multiple overlapping seats which will not seal.

I have done my BX TD with the regulator still attached to the car. Obviously make sure the car is properly supported.

There should be a ball bearing (different size) under the pressure relief screw on the regulator. It is possible that this has been lost by someone in the past removing the screw - when the ball will almost certainly drop out. Often the pressure relief screw still has some threaded neck visible when its tightened. If the ball is missing it may tighten fully against the regulator body. It is possible to reseat this ball in the same manner but it shouldn't suffer from wear in the same way as it is normally held on its seat by the screw. As above I suppose over tightening could flatten the ball allowing it to leak.

Reaseating the non-return valve on my BX reduced the cycling time from about 9 seconds to something I couldn't be bothered to measure.

You can check the accumulator easily. Start the engine and let the car get to normal height and settle (ie run it for a couple of minutes.) Turn off the engine - and sit in the boot. The back of the car should sink a long way then after about 30 seconds rise to its original height powered by the accumulator. If it doesn't then the accumulator is probably flat.
jeremy
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