HDI 90 cam belt change - for the home mechanic?

[Mad Ax]

I was given a Xsara HDI Estate earlier this year, but was told that it was due for it's 80,000 mile service and had not had the cam belt changed in its lifetime. I've been using it regularly for many short journeys (pizza delivery) and it's now at 86,000 miles, I feel I really ought to get on and change the belt.

I changed my Xantia XUD belt with no problems, just methodically worked thru the Haynes manual and took my time. I've rebuilt engines and performed many engine swaps and transplants in my time, so I'm familiar with getting oily and not frightened about major work.

However, the Haynes manual says that the timing belt requires special tools and therefore should be reserved for a main dealer. I'm not sure my budget will run to that sort of thing.

Who has performed this job on their own HDI, and how complicated was it? Did you have to borrow / buy a special tensioner tool, or did you fabricate something? Was it a mostly straightforward job like the XUD, or did it require much more lateral thinking to get the job done without a 4-post ramp, engine hoist and specialist tools?

If it's not a home mechanic job then is it really necessary to go to a Citroen main dealer, or can most private workshops handle this sort of thing?

Thanks in advance

[RichardW]

AFAIK the 90 engine is not too different to the XUD - except there's no handy spring tensioner, so in theory you have to set the tension with a SEEM gauge - or do as 90% of fitters will do and fit it by the 90° turn method - although I have heard this is slightly on the loose side for an HDi. I don't think the 90 has a vernier pulley on the cam like the 110 does - and the pump doesn't need timing I think the tensioner is just like the 2.1 one, with an eccentric roller.

[CitroJim]

AFAIK the 90 engine is not too different to the XUD - except there's no handy spring tensioner, so in theory you have to set the tension with a SEEM gauge - or do as 90% of fitters will do and fit it by the 90° turn method.

That method has always worked well for me on XU petrol engines with the eccentric tensioner. If it is too tight it'll let you know by whining and if too loose by flapping around rather more than is good for it.

One thing on the petrol engines is that the head and block expand a good bit betwenn hot and cold, affecting the cambelt tension significantly so the advice is to set it a bit on the loose side when cold and when the engine is good and hot, the tension will be perfect. I do not know if this applies to the HDi engine but would guess it does.

[reblack68]

My mate did the belts on my 1.9TD Xantia and my HDi110 Xantia. He claimed that the job was marginally easier on the HDi. You might be a bit tight for space on the Xsara but other than that there's nothing difficult about the job.

If it looks too tight for you an independent garage should be able to manage it.

[Mandrake]

That method has always worked well for me on XU petrol engines with the eccentric tensioner. If it is too tight it'll let you know by whining and if too loose by flapping around rather more than is good for it.

One thing on the petrol engines is that the head and block expand a good bit betwenn hot and cold, affecting the cambelt tension significantly so the advice is to set it a bit on the loose side when cold and when the engine is good and hot, the tension will be perfect. I do not know if this applies to the HDi engine but would guess it does.

Good advice Jim,

The belt tension on the 2.0i (XU10J ?) does indeed get a lot tighter when the engine heats up due to thermal expansion, it is very obvious even when checking the tension by hand when cold and then after 5-10 minutes running.

I made the mistake of setting the belt too tight on mine while cold - and then as soon as the engine heats up it gets even tighter and starts that awful whining noise - I'm not sure exactly where it originates from, but I have a feeling its the camshaft pulley bearing...

So I ended up letting the tension off a little bit and doing the final check of tension on a warmed up engine - possibly the best way of doing it if you don't have a gauge and have to judge it by look/feel as the warmed up tension not the cold tension is the one that really matters...

Too tight and it whines, too loose and it will flap around - exactly as you say. 8)

Regards,
Simon

[Mad Ax]

Thanks a lot for your advice - will get on with the job hopefully in a week's time