Changing rear brake pads

[Cpt_Spalding]

OK. It's a job I ought to be able to do myself fairly easily & quickly. However....

There's always a bloody however, isn't there. First off the dust covers have deteriorated to a what amounts to layer of rust over the pads. I removed these by basically ripping them off as there really wasn't much else I could do with them.

The pins that go through the lug on the top off the pads though are thoroughly stuck in position by the rust that was that part of the dust cover the pin went through. I managed to get the nut off the other side but can't get this pin out. Any suggestions?

& how come my calipers aren't squeaky clean like those in the Haynes manual???

[MikeT]

I had the same trouble with my pins but found a steel rod with slightly smaller diameter and used that to hammer out the pin. Once you break the rust, it comes out easy.

[CitroJim]

Rear brakes in that state can end up a real dockyard job

Rusted dust shields and seized pins do not bode well although the pins should come out with a bit of help from a large pair of pliers and plus-gas. Wreck the pins if need be and get some new replacements, along with new shields from your local dealer.

Given the state, the calipers should come right off for a really thorough clean up. I'll bet you'll find the old pads are well "wedged" due to a build-up of corrosion on the rear of the caliper where it mates with the trailing arm.

The job, actually, is not difficult, just time-consuming. The calipers are held on with 17mm bolts and be careful with these as they are high-tensile and can snap. Douse the rear of the bolts (where the threads emerge from the trailing arm) in Plus Gas, wire-brush and go carefully. Put a pin in the caliper so the two halves don't separate. Also, you'll need to take the discs off. They're secured with one hex stud of a funny size (5.5mm?) This sometimes seizes and is very easy to round off. Hammer on a slightly smaller socket and all will be well.

Also, you need to disconnect the hydraulic pipes to the calipers (a good quality 8mm spanner is needed for this) and when you reconnect the hydraulic pipes you'll need to replace the rubber seals (3.5mm). You may find the old seals stay in the caliper and need teasing out with a bit of wire. GSF do the seals very, very cheaply.

Haynes (the BoL) work on nice, clean new cars and as a result very much oversimplify the task of removing items that have lain undisturbed and quietly corroding for years. The BoL always glibly says, loosen this and remove that, never alluding to the fact corrosion may make it difficult or impossible. There is a certain knack to removing rusted nuts and studs and it's a shame the BoL does not devote a chaper to this very important aspect

[RichardW]

I had really bad rear brakes on my first Xantia - forced to do something when one of the pipes finally rusted through

Mine were so bad that after removing the calipers the only way to get the pins out was to saw them off then drift them out with a (big 8) ) hammer. The inner pads were so badly rusted in I had to saw them in half to get them out! Somewhat surprisingly, the calipers worked fine once cleaned up, and careful use of PlusGas and heat allowed me get both pipe stubs bleed nipples out. Took me all weekend though, including the pipes, so for just the calipers I'd allow a full day

[Cpt_Spalding]

Job done.

ordered new pins & dust covers from Citroen main dealer.

Thanks for the tip on Plusgas. A few applications of this. plenty of heat & the odd (ok, frequent & enjoyable) whack with the copperhead mallet to break the rust & the pins through the pads came out fine.

Surprisingly the calipers are working jus' fine, thank you, so no horror stories to tell.

If I were to add a further tip it would be to buy new anti-rattle clips & new shims in advance. One clip in poor condition, the other one just broke with no effort. Shims v rusty on n/side & just not there on o/side.

Still to do shims & clips but that's now a lower priority job.

Tx for the tips guys.