Xantia MOT Fail (Steering)

PicassoPigeon · Post by **PicassoPigeon** » 11 Aug 2007, 20:53

My Xantia just failed the MOT today with a problem about: Nearside steering system has excessive free play detected at tyhe steering wheel.

Any ideas what this would be?
I bet its not cheap

Thanks for any help.
gav425

deian · Post by **deian** » 11 Aug 2007, 21:07

Trackrod end nut would be my first port of call.

rory_perrett · Post by **rory_perrett** » 11 Aug 2007, 21:08

If it is only one side then it is less likely to be the rack (the expensive bit). Possibly the inner track rod ball joint, or track rod end. Neither are particularly expensive to fix, inner ball joint is a bit of a pig to do, about the only job I have given up on and taken it to the garage in nearly 30 years of DIY motoring. From what they charged it can't have been more than an hours work including re-tracking. First sign of wear on mine was clicks and clucks during slow speed parking.

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 11 Aug 2007, 21:38

These MOT descriptions get really obscure sometimes. The local guy for
mine is straight talking as says 'that rear driver's tyre's a bit squiffy and
the bottom balljoint is totally hanging..."

The inner trackrod bush can wear - problem is it sits in a damned awkward
spot to get at inside the steering boot that's as thin as rice paper. The
knuckle itself needs a good firm grip with moleys and enough purchase to
swing it - once the grip is undone it will unthread by hand. That's how it's
supposed to be done - access is another matter.

Obviously the rack needs winding out on full lock as much as possible and
the steering alignment need care unless you're really ceratin about your
measurements!!

Andrew

Sturdybloke · Post by **Sturdybloke** » 11 Aug 2007, 21:42

Most likley a balljoint @ 149k. Get the front end up in the air and well supported on axle stands so you can safely venture underneath. Have an assistant to gently wobble the N/S wheel at the 3 & 9 o'clock position and observe the movement, then do the same at the 12 & 6 o'clock position. You are looking for slack balljoints, worn CV joints, shot bushes etc etc

Hope this is of some help - Craig.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 12 Aug 2007, 00:01

What is the precise wording on the failure cert? It means something and in fact refers to a paragraph in the testers manual - so this will help us tell you what the problem is.

Testers manual:

http://www.motuk.co.uk/welcome.htm

PicassoPigeon · Post by **PicassoPigeon** » 12 Aug 2007, 08:16

The wording on the fail not is

Nearside srteering system has excessive free play detected at the steering wheel ( steering rack fitted) [2.2.A.1b]

Thank you for everybody super speedy replies. I am on dial up at the moment as my Broadband from sky has a problem with a tie pair, its been off from the 8th and could take up to 10 days for BT to sort out.

gav425

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 12 Aug 2007, 08:56

The test is:

A. Free Play
1. With the road wheels on the ground pointing straight ahead, lightly turn the steering wheel left and right as far as possible without moving the road wheels.

and the standard for a car with rack and pinion steering is:

b.)13mm for rack and pinion steering.

Note: Where there are several joints between the steering wheel and the rack, movement up to 48mm on a 380mm diameter wheel may be accepted.

Its worth reading the page:

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_220.htm

It looks like 2.2B deals with play when under load - which may help you find the problem.

Can you repeat the test and find excessive the play? Do you hear any noises when rocking the steering wheel?

As its lightly loaded play I'd start looking at the steering column itself and in particular at the universal joints especially at the connection to the rack. It is also possible that some of the column support bushes/bearings have slipped from their positions.

It may be a ball joint but I think this is unlikely as this is the light load test and unless both were worn one would do the job for this test. Driveshafts wouldn't influence this test. Lower ball joints and wishbone bushes wouldn't show up either, nor would hub bearings. Inner track rod bearings are a possibility (where track rod joins the rack) but I'd have thought that what I'd said about track rod ends would apply (ie one good one would prevent play being detected on this test.)

It is possible that the rack itself is worn - but a search of this board will show this is uncommon

PicassoPigeon · Post by **PicassoPigeon** » 18 Aug 2007, 09:22

With car on the ground and not running, if i turn to the left i get quite loud clicking noises I also get them when turning right but not as loud.

Would this be the tie rod ends and/or tie rods?

Looking at GSF I see these:

N43606 TIE ROD END-LH XANTIA LH 9.50
N43519 TIE ROD (AXIAL JOINT) XANTIA ALL EXCEPT 2.0 TUR 12.50

Would I also need the following:

N43090 STRG RACK BOOT SET XANTIA PAS 9.50
N42414 BALL JOINT XANTIA 9.50

Should I do both sides as I get clicking from both?

Thanks for your help.
gav425

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 18 Aug 2007, 09:36

If its track rod ends - you'll be able to feel the play if you jack it up so the wheel is off the ground then raise the wheel to approximately the running position with another jack - then grasp the wheel at 3 and 9 'O' clock and push and pull.

There are numerous variations on this procedure - you may even be able to feel the slack with the wheel on the ground if you are strong. Its probably necessary to get the wheel at the running height to ensure that the tie rod isn't under load (ie stretched) and also to ensure that the thing isn't using an unworn part which would seem tight.

Take the wheel off - you may be able to feel play if you wobble the hub with your hand around the ball joint - you may even be able to see that something is amiss as the boot is displaced or looks distorted. You may even be able to hear something.