Ball joint separator

DaveW · Post by **DaveW** » 18 Jul 2007, 21:15

Does anyone know of a screw type ball joint separator that fits the Xantia lower swivels - make and model.
I did modify one that I had by grinding it out and used this for several years on BX's but this evening, trying to break a taper on my son's Xantia, the thing broke.

I don't want to use a fork type as these invariably destroy the BJ boot. I need to replace a CV boot and, as there is nothing wrong with the ball joint, it seems a shame to damage it.

Dave

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 18 Jul 2007, 21:32

There is a clamp type around where you torque the clamp to press on the end of the balljoint bolt, while holding on the arm.
Its about the best type of tool you can get for this job, as you may leave the joint nut on, wounded out to protect the end of the bolt.

My guess is that was basically the type you alredy had, but now has snapped.
Its available almost all over where they have a small selection of automotive tools. You can instantly see on the tool if its up to the job. Some of the worst Taiwan types doesnt even have a hardened steel bolt as the pivot bolt. But a simple mild steel bolt as found on bicycles.

If you dont really need to remove the hub lower pivot joint, have you then considered instead to unclamp the suspension strut from hub - and lift up the strut from the hub instead ?
That should allow you to remove the driveaxles, if thats your real problem.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 18 Jul 2007, 21:47

I have a very old (although it wasn't when I bought it) Sykes Pickavant seperator which seems to work on anything. The part that slides under the balljoint is shaped, very thin in the middle. You sometimes have to hammer it in, but once engaged, you can screw the bolt up and give it a tap with the hammer when tight. I have never had one refuse!

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 18 Jul 2007, 21:56

David W · Post by **David W** » 18 Jul 2007, 22:09

I have a Sykes type too, has quite an open jaw and I've taken a bit more out with the grinder and made sure it is really smooth. I put a bit of grease on the jaw too so it slides over the joint rubber nicely.

David

Post by **CitroJim** » 18 Jul 2007, 22:14

The old "two hammer" method works for me every time. I have a set of matching 4 Lb club hammers for the job

I have not used a conventional balljoint splitter for years

DaveW · Post by **DaveW** » 18 Jul 2007, 22:18

Thanks for the replies.

Anders, the one you describe and illustrate is is the type I'm looking for (and the one just broken)
There are many available but on the majority that I have seen the slot is too narrow to allow them to slide (or be 'persuaded') around the BJ rubber boot. That is why I had ground out the one I had.
I just wondered if anyone had one by a specific maker that fitted 'off the shelf'.

I had thought about unclamping the hub carrier from the strut but I was doubtful if there would be enough play in the cables and pipes (brake cable etc.) to allow the hub carrier to be pulled off the drive shaft end.

This is a possibility then ??

Dave.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 18 Jul 2007, 22:48

DaveW wrote:I had thought about unclamping the hub carrier from the strut but I was doubtful if there would be enough play in the cables and pipes (brake cable etc.) to allow the hub carrier to be pulled off the drive shaft end.

This is a possibility then ??

Dave.

Should certainly be a possibility an hydraulic Citroens, as the strut can compress with no system pressure present. Not possible on steel sprung struts.

You will need to undo the the track rod and the droplink to twist the hub away from the CV joint.
I find it much easier this way, than swearing and fighting with the lower balljoint, which always is a pain working on.
Then you have the added terrorism of a possible joint damage, pushing you over the edge where things really makes you curse ...
I dont want that terrorism

Post by **Peter.N.** » 18 Jul 2007, 23:39

Anders - Thats the one, only its much cleaner than mine.

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 19 Jul 2007, 16:02

My Dad bought me a ball joint splitter that looks just like that, by Laser tools. It was tight on the rubber boot on a Xantia ball joint, but a very small amount of grinding has it fitting nicely and it makes splitting ball joints on a Xantia absolutely childs play. The small amount of grinding that it took means it's not lost any significant amount of strength.

Below is another picture of the type I have (by Laser tools, sold by Halfords)

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langId=-1

The picture below is another type of splitter made by Laser that Halfords stock. Possibly this will go in where a scissor type won't.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langId=-1#[/img]

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 21 Jul 2007, 00:55

AndersDK wrote:

I think I need one of them

It's the lower arm to wheel hub ball joint, is that what it's for? The joint at the lowest part of the inside wheel/hub that swivels with steering and presumably up and down motions? I checked my front wheels for loose bearings and found that joint with excessive (clunk) play (clunk). What's the most likely part(s) required to fix that? Thanks

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 21 Jul 2007, 00:57

citrojim wrote:The old "two hammer" method works for me every time. I have a set of matching 4 Lb club hammers for the job

Please tell me, how does that work? I've a got a 4 and a 16lb, will they do?

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 21 Jul 2007, 19:27

MikeT wrote:
citrojim wrote:The old "two hammer" method works for me every time. I have a set of matching 4 Lb club hammers for the job
Please tell me, how does that work? I've a got a 4 and a 16lb, will they do?

Holding one club (the heaviest) under the bolt while hammering down on the arm with the other club hammer.

Its important to have a rigid non-moving counterhold with this method. This is the heavy club hammer, which is very hard to move instantly. It then works as a very rigid counterhold on impacts.

I use the same method, but with different tools :
One club hammer as counterhold on the arm, then my air impact point chisel on the bolt tip - and another clubhammer as counterhold for the air impact tool (supported on a wooden block on the ground).

Its all about as high as possible masses impacting each other, with the bolt joint in the arm as a medium to receive the impact energy. That makes the bolt comes loose in the process.

Post by **CitroJim** » 21 Jul 2007, 21:18

AndersDK wrote:
MikeT wrote:
citrojim wrote:The old "two hammer" method works for me every time. I have a set of matching 4 Lb club hammers for the job
Please tell me, how does that work? I've a got a 4 and a 16lb, will they do?
Holding one club (the heaviest) under the bolt while hammering down on the arm with the other club hammer.

I use a very different method, hence the two matching hammers...

Each hammer is aimed to land a synchronised blow on opposite sides of the joint and this jars the taper out. I never hammer directly on the bolt or the top of the arm, just on the sides.

There is a certain practice needed to get the two hammers to apply blows together and to get the intensity right. If you can imagine clapping with a hammer in each hand and bringing their heads together, that is the technique you need to practice. Now imagine the eye of a wishbone between the heads and the resultant jarring from the blows will cause the balljoint taper to jump out of the eye. Generally about 5 good blows are needed to release the average balljoint taper.

Some say you risk damage to either arm or balljoint but in 30 years I've never damaged anything. The trick is to rain down steady, effective blows and not to try beating the living daylights out of it!

If it is still not clear I'll try to do a picture of it...

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 21 Jul 2007, 21:59

citrojim wrote:If it is still not clear I'll try to do a picture of it...

Thats defo a new method to me very diferent from what I thought you did 8)
Please picture it. I cant see how to do it not damaging the threaded part of the bolt.

PS : could you do it in a new thread - then I can move it to handy T&T forum.