Front plastic height corrector lever

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 28 Jun 2007, 19:01

When I bought the car I was told of a small plastic clip that had come off and simply needed "popping" back on and fixing in place

Well I did that but ok but today I noticed it's off again

It's a PITA working under these cars without a proper ramplift.

Does anyone know what the real fault is and how do I stop it coming off again? I've thought of using cable-ties but as this is an articulated & dynamic link I don't think that's a good idea somehow?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 28 Jun 2007, 21:36

Mike,

I'm assuming you mean the little white plastic link between the height corrector and the Anti Roll Bar (ARB).

They have a habit of popping off if the link itself is worn or there is a partial seizure in the height corrector mechanism due to general muck and corrosion.

Both are likely and I'd firstly order a new one from your loacl Citroen dealer. They cost pennies.

Then, when you come to fit it, give the height corrector mechanism a good dousing in WD40 and then liberally cover the mechanism in grease to lubricate it and keep out muck.

By mechanism I'm meaning the arrangement of springs and levers that connect the link ball-joint to the height corrector actuating shaft and not the height corrector itself. You'll see what i mean when you look at it.

The front height corrector is not easy to get to, being tucked in under and behind the front subframe. It gets very dry there unless you have a fortuitius oil leak (like on my old TD!) that keeps it well lubricated.

Mike, I am sorry to repeat yet again but when you go under your car to do this, please, please ensure the car is safely supported on axle stands and NEVER rely on the anti-sink valves to keep it up. Working on height correctors without adequate support can be LETHAL on a hydraulic Citroen. They can fall suddenly and kill you. Yes, I know you know this but I make no apology for repeating it once again.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 28 Jun 2007, 22:16

Hi Jim, yes that's the part(s) I mean.
When I popped it back on the first time I had just enough room to squeeze under the front (supported by short axle stands) and reach down to the linkage. I couldn't see anything else except the clamp on the anti-roll bar. I'd have to do a blind scattergun approach to lubing anything else.

Thanks for the warning and you are correct, apologies are not necessary. Only after reading a forum similar to this did I know about such dangers so keep on repeating I say!

p.s. After lubing the suspension leg today as you advised, I thought the front end when into freefall after I changing from High to Low suspension -it was so fast!

I actually grabbed the side of my seat thinking I was about to br dropped forward

Mandrake · Unread post by **Mandrake** » 29 Jun 2007, 00:02

Hi Mike,

Not everyone is in agreement about what can and does cause the plastic links to fall off, but heres my 2c.... (or 2p for you guys

)

It can be any one or a combination of:

* Height corrector spring assembly (the two big springs and the surfaces they slide against) are corroded, or gunked up with crud... cleaning and lubricating them and working them back and forth may fix it, but if they are too badly corroded you may need to replace the assembly.

* Nylon link worn - the ballcups in the link wear with age, eventually they become slack and prone to coming uncoupled. Once this happens the only choice is to replace the nylon link. Fortunately they are dirt cheap so there is no excuse not to replace it.

* The steel balls that the nylon link clips onto can reduce in diameter due to corrosion, same effect as above - prone to coming unclipped. If its the one at the rollbar end you can easily replace the clamp with the little steel rod on it. The nylon link should have no freeplay in it.

* The end of the nylon link that clips onto the spring unit must be able to pivot freely in the vertical plane. There is a small felt washer on each end of the link whose job it is to keep dirt and dust out of the ball coupling. If they are missing or squashed they let dirt get into the balljoint, eventually with a mix of water and dirt it can compact and go hard and prevent the joint from pivoting freely - the result is it will pop off. The solution to this is to clean the area and put new felt washers on. This is more an issue on the rear height corrector mind you, which gets covered in dirt.

Regards,
Simon

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 29 Jun 2007, 00:31

Hi Mandrake,
Thanks for sharing that. I was thinking of buying a new plastic arm just because they are so cheap. Although I couldn't see the other end of the arm, I do know it moved very freely - usually away from the ball I was trying to direct it to

My real problem is getting decent access. Two short axle stands and trolley jack high enough for this car.

Mandrake · Unread post by **Mandrake** » 29 Jun 2007, 02:11

Hi Mike,

I wouldn't attempt this job with axle stands and a jack. Last time I worked on the front height corrector I used a couple of drive on ramps and even that gave very awkward access since the height corrector is so far back and tucked up above the suspension cradle.

If you can't see what you're doing due to poor access you'll have a hell of a time getting the other end of the nylon link on...

Regards,
Simon

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 29 Jun 2007, 08:56

That's where Jim and I are lucky, our local airsoft site used to be a WW2 airfield, complete with vehicle inspection ramps, which were too thick to demolish so they're still in place next to the car park.
Perfect for working under xantias on, so if you happen to be up in this neck of the woods at any point...

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 29 Jun 2007, 10:35

Hi Simon, I was thinking of maybe getting another two axle stands - those DIY ramps have scared me since I overshot one and beached the chassis on it as well as causing damage to the car (not mine!).

That's interesting Xac, this area was full of airfields at one time too.

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 29 Jun 2007, 14:10

MikeT wrote: - those DIY ramps have scared me since I overshot one and beached the chassis on it as well as causing damage to the car

Exactly what I did many years ago

Ever since I've preferred to lift one end of the car high enough to place the ramps under the wheels, and place the car on ramps this way

AlanS suggest to use an old safety belt (or a similar idea) fastened on the ramps, then drive onto these belts before going up the ramps. That will prevent the ramps to skid forwards on the wheels while first driving onto the ramps.
Fine - but thats not the real problem.

The problem is in fact the ramps are too steep to keep controlling the car while trying to drive onto the ramps - and therefore the very large risc to overshoot - or tilt over the ramp ends when you stomp on the brakes.

Please note that there are lots of different manufacturers of these ramps worldwide, and the only thing they seem to have in common is the height which imperically is 10". But the lenght vary - a lot - and thats where the problem comes in.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 29 Jun 2007, 18:12

While there are better alternatives, I'll never want to use a ramp again, that's all I can say.

Anyway, today and with the help of wooden blocks, I managed to get the car high enough.... but not all was well.

Is it just me or does anyone else find it disconcerting to use a knife-edge lip of metal as a weight bearing area?

It's neat the way the jack fits and holds the lip in a v-slot, but then what?
The Haynes BOL says to place axle stands as close to the jacking point as possible, so I did, just behind the front one. Repeated this on the other side - looked good too - plenty of crawl space

On the crawl under I noticed shiny black oily wet areas around the steering rack

Moving on, I inspected the plastic corrector arm/linkage and sure enough, the plastic socket had popped off the metal ball. [Blanket spraying of carb cleaner and brake cleaner in the vicinty, allowed it to evaporate then loads of lube sprayed everywhere]. Unfortunately, the plastic arm was too far from the ball to refit so I started the engine and set the suspension height to low.....but nothing happened! The car stayed high

While thinking about a solution to how to realign the balljoint, I checked the n/s/f wheel for play and noticed the lower arm ball-joint had several degrees freeplay

Then the o/s/f strut mounting got a quick inspection - and underneath I see the rubber cover is bulging and lumpy indicating de-layering of the metal rusting away underneath

Anyway, leaving that for now and going by the logic that the manual suspension adjustment does work, I lowered the nearside to the ground and before I could fully unload the jack, the car started creaking and lowering - my theory of more weight on the supsension worked

I quickly checked the other side was still safely on the axle stand... and I notice the lip had buckled outwards from the forces of movement

So I crawled under, popped ball-joint together, packed away tools, set suspension to normal and drove home contemplating the endless list of faults.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 02 Jul 2007, 17:17

Drove off today and the front suspension was too hard. The plastic arm has come of it's ball joint again so I may be off to buy a new one shortly. If something is seized, could just cleaning do the trick or will certain parts probably need removing/replacing?

I can't see the other end of the plastic arm, can I get easier access removing something simple?

Jim, I've doused everything in grease - best I could do at the time. I'll try and soak it all in WD40 followed by some thin oil next time.

Simon, I saw one spring and could guess where the other is but couldn't see any way to manipulate movement in them. How is this accomplished or do I need to remove the assembly first and all will be revealed?

Thanks

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 03 Jul 2007, 20:56

Tee-hee

I'm not talking to myself or blogging xantia maintenance, honest 8)

I bought a new plastic clip today £1.99 and was suprised to note just how short it was and how it connects at the unseen end. It's tempting to just try and remove the old one and fit the new, hoping for the best.

Presuming I'll have to work partly by touch alone, does anyone know if it's easy to remove the old one and fit the new or will better access/visibility be required? I'm guessing it can be done without dismantling anything?

Would a cup of hot water be beneficial to fitting and should I use any grease?

Mandrake · Unread post by **Mandrake** » 03 Jul 2007, 21:01

Hi Mike,

Hot water won't help. To remove the old one you'll have to use a large flat blade screw driver to lever it off - as they're normally quite tight, and you usually leave marks on it in the process.

As for grease - its ok to put a little bit on the ball, but don't put grease in the cup as its easy to put too much and then the hydraulic action of the grease will prevent you from engaging the balljoint! (Been there, done that...

)

Remember to find and refit the felt washers. From memory to do the front most one I had to use a large screwdriver against the chassis as a lever to pop it on, and on the rear one I used a pair of poly pliers to get a nice parrallel squeeze to pop it on.

Regards,
Simon

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 03 Jul 2007, 21:18

Damn, I could have bought new felt washers

Is there one each end? Should they be inspected/cleaned? What to look for? Is it obvious how they refit?

Sorry to be so picky Simon, I have to work outdoors and the weather's not giving much opportunity. Cheers.

Mandrake · Unread post by **Mandrake** » 03 Jul 2007, 21:55

Yes there is a felt washer on each end.

You just slip it over the ball before pressing the cup on. The nylon links aren't available here in NZ so I got someone from the UK to post a couple over to me, but I didn't realise they didn't come with the felt washers, so I ended up reusing mine.

I know the feeling with the working outdoors - I have to do most of my car work outdoors and its winter here!

Luckily we are having an uncharacteristicly warm winter so far with very little rain and even some good temperatures - 21 degrees in the middle of the day yesterday in the middle of winter!

(But more often around 16-17)

Regards,
Simon