when it gets warmer i am going to replace the flow & return pipes that run down between the engine & the bulkhead to hopefully cure an air leak. I'm sorry if this is a dumb question but what is the best way of cutting off the diesel so it doesn't pour out when the old pipe is removed? are there flexible pipes you can clamp or do you have to drain the tank?
Also I can't see a note about the correct adjustment for the cold start cable. how is it done?
xantia fuel pipes & cold start cable 1.9 td
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RichardW
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Pete,
Don't know about the fuel pipes - should be possible to disconnect / plug them somewhere to avoid losing all of it!
The cold start cable should function like this - engine cold the cable should be taut, and the lever on the pump (assuming it's a Bosch pump, and the cable goes to the back of the pump) pulled right up towards the flywheel end of the engine. You can check by starting the engine from cold, and then trying to push the lever in the direction of the flywheel - if it moves the engine speed will increase. When the engine is hot the cable should be slack, and the lever should have moved to the timing belt end of the engine - push the lever to the flywheel and the engine speed should increase. If it's not taut / slack , then it's probably shot. If it does not pull the lever right up, you may be able to adjust it using the cable adjuster on the pump, otherwise you'll have to undo the cable clamp, and then perform a 3 handed trick to push the lever over, pull the cable back, and tighten the cable clamp all at once!! Note that there is usually one other cold start adjustment on the pump (which usually vaires the timing), but how this is operated varies on the age of the car I think - some may even be vacuum operated on later engines.
Richard
Don't know about the fuel pipes - should be possible to disconnect / plug them somewhere to avoid losing all of it!
The cold start cable should function like this - engine cold the cable should be taut, and the lever on the pump (assuming it's a Bosch pump, and the cable goes to the back of the pump) pulled right up towards the flywheel end of the engine. You can check by starting the engine from cold, and then trying to push the lever in the direction of the flywheel - if it moves the engine speed will increase. When the engine is hot the cable should be slack, and the lever should have moved to the timing belt end of the engine - push the lever to the flywheel and the engine speed should increase. If it's not taut / slack , then it's probably shot. If it does not pull the lever right up, you may be able to adjust it using the cable adjuster on the pump, otherwise you'll have to undo the cable clamp, and then perform a 3 handed trick to push the lever over, pull the cable back, and tighten the cable clamp all at once!! Note that there is usually one other cold start adjustment on the pump (which usually vaires the timing), but how this is operated varies on the age of the car I think - some may even be vacuum operated on later engines.
Richard
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mbunting
- Posts: 712
- Joined: 21 Dec 2001, 15:19
The fuel is sucked from the tank into the pump ( asuming diesel )
What I would do ( not necessarily correct ).
Since you are replacing the pipe, I would be inclined to make a small cut in the feed pipe while the engine is running. This will then suck air into the engine, reducing the amount of fuel in the pipe. Stop the engine before it dies, and drain the fuel from the pipe into a container.
Obviously the system would need bleeding afterwards anyway.
I would also make sure the tank is reasonably empty ( perhaps 1 gal ) to reduce the head of pressure. This way you won't get too much leaking out.
Mat.
Edited by - mbunting on 13 Jan 2003 12:49:40
What I would do ( not necessarily correct ).
Since you are replacing the pipe, I would be inclined to make a small cut in the feed pipe while the engine is running. This will then suck air into the engine, reducing the amount of fuel in the pipe. Stop the engine before it dies, and drain the fuel from the pipe into a container.
Obviously the system would need bleeding afterwards anyway.
I would also make sure the tank is reasonably empty ( perhaps 1 gal ) to reduce the head of pressure. This way you won't get too much leaking out.
Mat.
Edited by - mbunting on 13 Jan 2003 12:49:40