Well I am starting to get mightily peeved with my 405, having just fitted a new rad it has now decided to start killing its fuel pump.
Got it started to drive to Cheltenham on Friday and noticed the top of the fuel pump was wet, had a sniff and it turns out to be diesel, great!!
Watched it for a few minutes and it seems to be leaking from the throttle cable arm support, the bit with the return spring on it. However when I checked the engine over the weekend down in Cheltenham it was fine. This morning in the slightly cooler temperature of North Wales it was leaking again. So I'm guessing as the temperature warms up it seals.
Just had a quote from the main dealer of over £1000 for a new pump, or about £200-250 for new seals, so will look at the local garages and see what they say. At least I'll be able to fix the stop solenoid at the same time. Scrap yard wouldn't sell one to me last week so will have to arrange the funds for a new one, joy!
What is going to break next on this b****y vehicle? Its done 85500 miles give or take.
Edit: Since I've had it has had: New Battery, Alternator, Cambelt Handbrake Cable, Brake Cylinder, Brake Hoses, Speedo Cable and Drive, Glowplug Relay, Water pump, Track Rods, an assortment of hoses, and lastly a new rad. This is in 23000 miles and two years.
Fuel Pump Problems
Moderator: RichardW
Fuel Pump Problems
2001 406 Rapier 2.0 HDi 90 Estate - Sold Scrap after being viciously attacked by a falling tree
2001 Toyota MR2 1.8 VVTi - To be sold for spares/repair - dead gearbox
2014 Seat Ibiza Eastate 1.4 FR ACT (bought in an emergency, but a nice enough low mileage car)
2001 Toyota MR2 1.8 VVTi - To be sold for spares/repair - dead gearbox
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CitroJim
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Don't dispair Owen 
If it's a Lucas DPC pump than this is not a serious problem. All you need is a repair kit so you can replace the "O" rings around the throttle and cold-start spindles and the lid.
The job is very easy as long as you observe strict clenliness and work methodically. The repair kit contains 20 million "O" rings and other bits and pieces needed to overhaul the pump and costs about £25.
I can guide you through this job. I've done several.
There is a similar kit available for Bosch pumps and I'm sure they'd respond to the same treatment. I've not yet done one but the principle will be the same.
I noticed our local scrappy does not value old pumps so I reckon it would be an idea to get a scrap one and practice on it before attempting yours...
If it's a Lucas DPC pump than this is not a serious problem. All you need is a repair kit so you can replace the "O" rings around the throttle and cold-start spindles and the lid.
The job is very easy as long as you observe strict clenliness and work methodically. The repair kit contains 20 million "O" rings and other bits and pieces needed to overhaul the pump and costs about £25.
I can guide you through this job. I've done several.
There is a similar kit available for Bosch pumps and I'm sure they'd respond to the same treatment. I've not yet done one but the principle will be the same.
I noticed our local scrappy does not value old pumps so I reckon it would be an idea to get a scrap one and practice on it before attempting yours...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Its the Lucas pump. So guidance would be very much appreciated, where would I go about getting such a kit?
Unfortunately the local scrappy will not sell those bits as they tend to sell the entire engine as intact as possible, ancillaries we can have, but main engine components are a no no. Pity really as there is a P-reg 1.9 TD in the yard.
Unfortunately the local scrappy will not sell those bits as they tend to sell the entire engine as intact as possible, ancillaries we can have, but main engine components are a no no. Pity really as there is a P-reg 1.9 TD in the yard.
2001 406 Rapier 2.0 HDi 90 Estate - Sold Scrap after being viciously attacked by a falling tree
2001 Toyota MR2 1.8 VVTi - To be sold for spares/repair - dead gearbox
2014 Seat Ibiza Eastate 1.4 FR ACT (bought in an emergency, but a nice enough low mileage car)
2001 Toyota MR2 1.8 VVTi - To be sold for spares/repair - dead gearbox
2014 Seat Ibiza Eastate 1.4 FR ACT (bought in an emergency, but a nice enough low mileage car)
-
CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 49658
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- Location: Paggers
- My Cars: Bluebell the AX, Polly the C3 Picasso, Pix the Nissan Pixo, Propel the duathlon bike, TCR Pro the road bike and Fuji the TT bike...
- x 6203
- Contact:
Hi Owen,
I got my last kit from here. very friendly and helpful company. You'll have to supply the pump type and serial number found on the blue plate under the pump. Use a mirror to see it and practice mirror reading/writing. If you have not got a mirror that will go in there, use an old CD. It works well as a mirror!
http://home.btconnect.com/AutomarineDiesel/
To do the job:
Remove the throttle and cold start levers.
Clean the pump body and levers you have removed very thoroughly.
Remove the leakoff (fuel return) union.
Undo the four top cover securing screws and carefully lift up whilst pushing the throttle and cold start spindles down. Beware that the coldstart quadrant will become loose and detach itself. Note how it goes as you lift the lid.
Some say the lid should be replaced but this in my experience, is not necessary.
Very carefully remove the two sets of O rings on each shaft. I found it is easiest to cut them wih very sharp knife and recover them with a pair of tweezers.
Fit the new O rings, dipping them in diesel to lubricate them.
Discard the big O ring under the lid and replace it. Reassemble. Tighten the lid screws evenly(like a cylinder head, to avoid distortion) and not too tightly.
That is basically it. You need to work under very, very clean conditions. You'll see as soon as you lift the lid that the pump is full of diesel and at times your fingers will be dipping into this pool of diesel. Be very careful not to let even the tiniest speck of dirt or water get into the pump internals.
Be very careful doing this job if you know you have (or think you may have) a sensitivity to diesel that causes contact dermatitis. The job will be very difficult to do with gloves on as a bit of dexterity is needed to remove and fit the shaft O rings.
It is a shame you cannot get just the O rings you need but unfortunately you have to buy the whole kit.
I got my last kit from here. very friendly and helpful company. You'll have to supply the pump type and serial number found on the blue plate under the pump. Use a mirror to see it and practice mirror reading/writing. If you have not got a mirror that will go in there, use an old CD. It works well as a mirror!
http://home.btconnect.com/AutomarineDiesel/
To do the job:
Remove the throttle and cold start levers.
Clean the pump body and levers you have removed very thoroughly.
Remove the leakoff (fuel return) union.
Undo the four top cover securing screws and carefully lift up whilst pushing the throttle and cold start spindles down. Beware that the coldstart quadrant will become loose and detach itself. Note how it goes as you lift the lid.
Some say the lid should be replaced but this in my experience, is not necessary.
Very carefully remove the two sets of O rings on each shaft. I found it is easiest to cut them wih very sharp knife and recover them with a pair of tweezers.
Fit the new O rings, dipping them in diesel to lubricate them.
Discard the big O ring under the lid and replace it. Reassemble. Tighten the lid screws evenly(like a cylinder head, to avoid distortion) and not too tightly.
That is basically it. You need to work under very, very clean conditions. You'll see as soon as you lift the lid that the pump is full of diesel and at times your fingers will be dipping into this pool of diesel. Be very careful not to let even the tiniest speck of dirt or water get into the pump internals.
Be very careful doing this job if you know you have (or think you may have) a sensitivity to diesel that causes contact dermatitis. The job will be very difficult to do with gloves on as a bit of dexterity is needed to remove and fit the shaft O rings.
It is a shame you cannot get just the O rings you need but unfortunately you have to buy the whole kit.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...