Rev Counter....Now Not Counting !

[ACTIVE8]

I went out to the car to check on something, and it wouldn't start !

Now, normally this 98 Xantia Activa does not have a problem with turning over, but it was obvious when it would (not.....edit) start up, the battery was a bit down. I have now charged up the battery, and with the boost charge it now seems O.K. although I will now actually remove the battery, and give it an overnight charge, and check it with a meter tomorrow to see how the battery is then.

The reason why I am posting is to find out if anyone else has had a problem with a flat battery, and while they crank it over, and see it just about starting, have found that the rev counter needle has spun round to maximum revs.

So the engine did not start initially, and now the rev counter needle is not where it should be. Even now the needle has not returned despite the fact, that I now have the engine running.

How can I get the rev counter needle back to where it should be ?

Is this a common problem ?

[Clogzz]

This rings a distant bell.
It may be the battery terminals working loose from the tapered posts, causing loss of reference voltage.
Disconnecting the battery for a good while may bring the needle back down.
Also switch on the sidelights with battery disconnected to totally discharge the loom.
Hope those who know more aren’t far behind.

[CitroJim]

Like Clogzz this rings a distant bell....

I believe the needle is jammed up against the end of its physical travel and it's an instrument panel dismantling job to rectify it. All you will need to do is gently touch the needle and it'll fly back. Before doing that, try giving the panel a short rap with your hand (fist) and see if you can gently shock the needle back.

[ACTIVE8]

Hi citrojim

I tried the tapping method, and so far no luck !

Is there a certain specific place on the panel that you have tapped before to get your method to work ?



Hi Clogzz

I will try what you have suggested tomorrow, when I will be refitting the battery.


This is a question for the both of you. When you have encountered this problem before, has it occured on a Citroen, or another make of car, and what model was it ?

[CitroJim]

Hi citrojim

I tried the tapping method, and so far no luck !

Is there a certain specific place on the panel that you have tapped before to get your method to work ?

Hi ACTIVE8,

Try a good rap on the top of the dash above the tacho and then a "flick" (thumb and index finger as if you were flicking a small piece of paper - you know what I mean ) against the glass in the vicinity of the tacho. Try flicking by the end of the needle and in the middle by the needle spindle.

This is a question for the both of you. When you have encountered this problem before, has it occured on a Citroen, or another make of car, and what model was it ?

I've had it happen on a Peugeot 405, and a couple of 205s. My own Activa occasionally needs a little flick in the vicinity of the temperature gauge to make it behave. I have seen it happen on another Activa when it was being jump started (rather unsuccessfully from a low battery) and in that case the needle flew round hard but came back of it's own accord.

The tacho is normally driven from a pulse derived from the ignition coil and I guess low battery and starting attempts cause some nasty spiky pulses to be sent to the tacho.

It is not as bad a job as it looks to pop the instrument panel apart to get the needle back in place.

Good luck!

[Clogzz]

Hi ACTIVE8,

The instance I’ve had was with SWMBO’s 1995 Nissan Pulsar LX 1.6 twin cam.
The alternator went open when hot, and the undersized battery was on the way out at the same time, needing top-ups, and whitening the positive terminal.
The starter went ‘clonk’ and the dash lights went dim.
Transferred the battery from the Xantia, and found the earth terminal coming off too easily.
Started the Nissan and she drove it to work without looking at the counter.

When replacing the battery that night, saw the counter flat-out.
Disconnected the positive terminal and earthed it to a metal pipe while we went feeding.
After that, the counter had returned to zero by itself … voodoo electronics.
That was over 6 years ago, and it’s been good since.

The Nissan has consumed 2 more batteries since, and so has the Xantia.
We cannot get proper batteries at reasonable prices here.
They never last 3 years, and all of them come from the same factory in Indonesia, irrespective of brand.
The original Japanese batteries used to last 6 years.

[ACTIVE8]

Hi citrojim

I got the impression from your reply that this only seems to occur with French cars. Although reading through the reply from Clogzz (Hi Clogzz ) he's experienced it on a Nissan. I've not actually experienced this before on any car I have owned till this one.

[CitroJim]

Hi ACTIVE8

In recent years French cars are all I have known

Did you see this from Pete the Bus?

I also managed to get the rev.counter working by drilling a tiny hole in the panel and using a piece of wire to nudge the needle back to the start. Seemed easier solution than taking the whole panel off!

Now there is some first-class lateral thinking!

[DickieG]

I had the same problem with the rev counter when I flattened the battery on my V6.

The problem only seems to occur with facelift Xantia's as unlike early models the rev counter doesn't have the usual return spring on the needle.

Haynes states that the instruments are 'solid state?'. All I know is that if you turn the instrument panel upside down the needles fall downwards and need to be coaxed back into position.

Luckily on facelift Xantia's you don't need to remove the steering wheel to remove the instrument panel although there is the small matter of 25 screws you need to undo.

[CitroJim]

Haynes states that the instruments are 'solid state?'.

It really means it has a collection of electronics within and all the gauges are moving-coil meters controlled by electronics. Have you noticed how they move in little steps rather than a smooth, linear movement. That's the controlling electronics for you You'll also notice on these that the speedo registers when you're going backwards

I seem to recall the BoL saying the panel lamps cannot be replaced on the Facelift panel

"Solid-State" is an old term coined in the early 60s to differentiate electronic equipment using semiconductors (transistors) from that using valves. So, do we infer fom the use of that term that pre-facelift instrument packs contained valves?

That is a blindingly good idea to turn the pack upside down! To save taking all those screws out, try using one of those body rollers

[ACTIVE8]

Hi ACTIVE8

In recent years French cars are all I have known

Did you see this from Pete the Bus?

I also managed to get the rev.counter working by drilling a tiny hole in the panel and using a piece of wire to nudge the needle back to the start. Seemed easier solution than taking the whole panel off!

Now there is some first-class lateral thinking!

Hi citrojim

Yes, I have now seen that method that Pete the Bus has used, it's tempting as a quick way of dealing with the problem, although I am concerned about drilling a hole in the panel, I assume that this is the perspex cover, as I don't want to damage the cover, as I would not want it to split, and I am left with a hole where there wasn't one.

I am sure I have seen cars in the past, which have a stop which physically stops the needle going too far. 8)
Not having a stop is penny (or Euro) pinching thanks to the manufacturers accountants budget.

[pete the bus]

Yes, it is the clear perspex cover, and i doubt if it will split if you use a sharp enough drill. I think i used a 3mm bit, and it can easily be covered up with a tiny bit of tape after to keep the moisture out. You need to be careful that you dont go too far with the drill whilst drilling!
Regards
Peter