removal of xantia front bumper help!!!!!!!!

admiral51 · Unread post by **admiral51** » 01 Jun 2007, 18:07

hi all
im removing fan assembly from my 1996 1.9d xantia and need to get front bumper off
have followed haynes (bol) manual but cant get to front bumper screws/bolts as i dont have fog lights and book says to get to them i need access through front fog light space in bumper
my bumper does not have holes for fog lights any panels are not pop out style

any ideas how to get them ive got all the rest out and the wife is now giving me lots of earache

thanks in advance
colin

mezuk04a · Unread post by **mezuk04a** » 01 Jun 2007, 18:23

Im only having a guess but surely you would have to reach all the way under the bumper and possibly back inside it (

)

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 01 Jun 2007, 18:53

I haven't had to remove the front bumper to get the fans out!

The main rad comes out and then you undo the two bolts holding the
fan enclosure through the main nose headlight panel. The fans then
lift vertically out in one cassette...

Well, that's what I remember doing recently with a 1.9TD '94 and
a 1.8i 16v '97!!

As far as front bumper removal;

There's a small torx screw fastening the ear of the front bumper onto
the wing's bottom ledge lip, a pair of bolts threading into the captives
on the main side bumper bracket and then IIRC several vertical 10mm's|
up into the base through the front cross member and although I can't
remember 1005 clearly, possibly another couple beneath the middle
grille section.

Andrew

mezuk04a · Unread post by **mezuk04a** » 01 Jun 2007, 19:14

Does that mean I was close or way way off the mark

Im betting a tenner on way way...

exect · Unread post by **exect** » 01 Jun 2007, 21:09

Hi,
I did take my bumper off to replace the fan motors and did not have to remove the foglights. The main bolts are accessed from inside the wheel arches. Now I know what I am doing it is just possible to replace the motors without removing the bumper.
Regards
exect

admiral51 · Unread post by **admiral51** » 01 Jun 2007, 21:59

thanks one and all job now sorted

undo all side and under bumper bolts and give it a pull and off it came
think i must have trusted the BOL to much
i had to take fan housing out as it had been attacked by someone with no mechanical sense whatsover and one fan only in assembly
now that is out and cooling system drained does anyone have any hints on most idiot proof way of refilling without getting air blocks
do you put heater controls to high??
i have only found 2 bleed screws one on radiator and one on heater hoses but BOL says there should/could be one on thermostat housing

thanks for your ideas but i didnt get to read them before i solved it amazing what you do when the wife keeps nagging

Unread post by **alan s** » 01 Jun 2007, 22:08

Cooling system is quite simple to do on mine. (95 Xant 2.0i)

There was one on the thermostat housing that looks like a cap on a tyre valve, one at the header tank (I think) and another at the U piece on the hose to the heater on the firewall.
I usually open all bleeders & just fill the coolant right to the top, then close the bleeders from the lowest point up to the highest without the engine running. Start the engine and when it's warm, open the top bleeder on the heater hose until I get clear coolant coming out.
Be certain the coolant is kept filled and then I run back down the bleeders and then back up to check all are blowing coolant minus bubbles. Takes only a couple of minutes to do and is always 100% correct.

Alan S

admiral51 · Unread post by **admiral51** » 01 Jun 2007, 23:06

thanks alan will give it a go tomorrow when i put things back together have tested fans and relays with brown plug removed from thermostat housing and both kick in on slow for approx 3secs then on full.ignition off and both go to slow so all seems ok on that side of things
next on agenda is aircon and im sure i have seen a thread on here about fault finding from you or clozz( prob got name wrong been a long day) so thanks again for everyones help would have cost me a fortune in a dealers

a little knowledge goes a long way

Clogzz · Unread post by **Clogzz** » 02 Jun 2007, 13:42

The air conditioning faults are discussed mostly here:

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... m.php?f=12

Depending on what you need, here is a map to start with.

More maps in this bucket:

http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q23/Clogzz/

admiral51 · Unread post by **admiral51** » 02 Jun 2007, 18:24

thanks to all think problems solved 8)
everything back in no leaks both fans do as they shoukl
just tried a/c not working but wasnt before i started so no surprise
put a/c on and internal fan and both cooling fans spin at slow speed
shorted thin wires on dryer switch and both spin fast
shorted thick wires and compressor kicks in

can i safely assume that dryer switch is doing what it should and that as compressor kicks in (only let it run for 3-4 secs) that it must be low on gas??
no idea when last regassed as last owner seems to have been a bit of a caveman :lol
thanks clogzz previous threads extremely helpful what an excellent forum this is and miles cheaper than a dealers

Clogzz · Unread post by **Clogzz** » 03 Jun 2007, 12:58

Cavemen happily get by without air conditioning,

so the system must be low on gas, causing the pressure switch to prevent the compressor from starting.
Since shorting the thick compressor wires at the pressure switch starts the compressor, it is indeed an indication of low pressure in the system, or a faulty pressure switch, which is less likely.
There are do-it-yourself refill bottles, but they don’t pay off in case of leak, while an aircon place can test for that.

admiral51 · Unread post by **admiral51** » 03 Jun 2007, 15:46

thanks clogzz for that if it is the pressure switch can they be replaced without having to regas or would you recommend getting a new switch before i get it regassed
also when i said compressor started all i could see was outer wheel on compressor turning when wires shorted assume this meant compressor was running
cheers

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jun 2007, 16:51

admiral51 wrote:if it is the pressure switch can they be replaced without having to regas or would you recommend getting a new switch before i get it regassed

Yes, the pressure switch can be replaced without the loss of the gas. There is a Schrader (sp?) (tyre type) valve behind the switch that seals the gas in when you unscrew the switch. You'll get a little hiss as you unscrew the switch but nothing more.

And yes, if you see the outer edge of the pulley rotating, the compressor is running. This shows the clutch has engaged.

admiral51 · Unread post by **admiral51** » 03 Jun 2007, 18:33

thanks jim much appreciated
i assume switch is a normal r/h thread. dont want to run compressor for any lenght of time in case no gas in it but dont want to regass and find it wont kick in may have to short wires when regassed if no joy from switch

just wondering the gas in the system should be r134a as its a 1996 p reg hopefully no need for a conversion kit

am going to get a specialist in to have look at system test regass etc
have used one previous when i had the vectra highly recommended
for those of you in poole/bournemouth area this is the web address
www.poolecool.co.uk
thanks again
colin

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jun 2007, 18:48

Yes, a normal RH thread Colin.

There should be a label on the compressor to say what gas is in there. A 1996 car will almost be certain to have R134a as R12 was banned in 1995.

I think you'll find compressors with green labels are R134a whereas R12 compressors will have red labels. That was the case with my old 405. Red label and R12.