Hi. My ABS has been broken for awhile now, the light comes on after a few minutes and the car returns to normal braking. It has always braked fine, with no problems....until today.
The ABS was kicking in at any speed or however hard i braked. I've checked the system over and the two front timing rings for the ABS are split The O/S ring was completely out of allignment, so i've squared it back up, but this can obviously only be a temporary thing.
They look like a pain to replace. It looks like either the axle has to come out or the hub has to come out. Any thoughts? Also any idea on the price of the part?
Xantia: Split ABS Timing Ring
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia: Split ABS Timing Ring
307SW HDi 110
The rings can be replaced but I have not got a clue as to how much or even if they are sold seperate to the CV joint.
My guess is that they are only available as part of the CV joint.
In the past, when I wanted to replace a CV joint, the one in the box was a non ABS one, with no ring, so I took the ring off the old joint and fitted it to the new.
The ring is "sweated on" this is achieved by warming the ring up to expand it, then placing it onto the CV joint and letting it cool down, this will then shrink back to size and not come off.
I would say that a scrappy would be the best place to look, but beware, there are 2 x different rings, you need to count the teeth.
As far as doing the job, remove the wheel, undo and seperate the lower ball joint, undo the center nut off the drive shaft and with the suspension depressurised, you will be able to lift the hub off the drive shaft, then it's up to you, either drain the gearbox and remove the shaft or peel back the gaiter and remove the CV joint alone.
Regards
Slim.
My guess is that they are only available as part of the CV joint.
In the past, when I wanted to replace a CV joint, the one in the box was a non ABS one, with no ring, so I took the ring off the old joint and fitted it to the new.
The ring is "sweated on" this is achieved by warming the ring up to expand it, then placing it onto the CV joint and letting it cool down, this will then shrink back to size and not come off.
I would say that a scrappy would be the best place to look, but beware, there are 2 x different rings, you need to count the teeth.
As far as doing the job, remove the wheel, undo and seperate the lower ball joint, undo the center nut off the drive shaft and with the suspension depressurised, you will be able to lift the hub off the drive shaft, then it's up to you, either drain the gearbox and remove the shaft or peel back the gaiter and remove the CV joint alone.
Regards
Slim.
Working your way into the CV joint is always a hassle because of the job undoing the lower balljoint
There is an alternative to undoing the lower balljoint, as this job nearly always damages the joint
Intead you unclamp the suspension cylinder from the hub and lift it out the hub. You shold first remove the linkrod though. If this is admaged during removal (or found to need replacing) its a much easier job than replacing the lower balljoint 8)
Believe you have to undo the steering track rod too ...
There is an alternative to undoing the lower balljoint, as this job nearly always damages the joint
Intead you unclamp the suspension cylinder from the hub and lift it out the hub. You shold first remove the linkrod though. If this is admaged during removal (or found to need replacing) its a much easier job than replacing the lower balljoint 8)
Believe you have to undo the steering track rod too ...
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image