my front driver side e/window has packed up.
Ordered a second hand one but it turned up to be a different one. The one I have has a 6 pin plug (with 4 wires) and the one he sent has a simple 2 pin plug and 2 wires.
can I somehow modify that to suit?
I am ok with electrics but I was a bit puzzled when I checked them out with my multi meter.
the 6 pin plug in my car, 2 were blank, the middle 2 wires has +12v when its on ign, then the 2 other pins will have + 12v when you press the button, but funny that they both have the +12 v no matter when you open or shut the window
Then one he sent is simpler, but still I think I need some kind of relay. if I feed power to one and have the other one earthed, it operates one way, and if I swap the wires, it operates the other way. Fine, but How can I add a relay that will swap them and change the polarity??
any advise is appreciated
cheers
electric windows on my xsara
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Josewick -
Firstly : have you checked that it really is the lock motor - and not simply the wiring ? It is by far the most common problem that one or more wires is torn apart in the rubber bellow door to pillar. You can check by wiring up a lamp to the lock motor wires. Lamp should light up briefly (1-2 seconds) while the lock motors are energised.
If you find that one or more wires are disrupted, then using careful violence, pull each motor wire to try if it slips into the door.
The wires that cant resist mild violence are obviously to be replaced.
This is done by sacrificing a sound wire to use as a pull-wire, pulling 2 new wires through he bellow. You may use any wire as a pull wire, if you observe the correct gauge of the new wire.
Secondly : Any lock motor will require only 2 wires for the motor feed. To L or UNL - you simply reverse the polarity.
The front door motors have a special feature requiring 3 extra wires. This is the L or UNL position sensor switches build on to the motor. These position sensor switches are activated when you turn the key in the lock barrel., as the lock rods is pushing the motor in either position (the motordrive is very easy to push/pull).
The common design is that one of these extra 3 wires is a ground wire, then either position switch returns a ground signal to the CL unit.
In other words : you have been given a rear door (or sometimes a front passenger door) motor with no lock position switches.
Have a fiddle and please report back
Firstly : have you checked that it really is the lock motor - and not simply the wiring ? It is by far the most common problem that one or more wires is torn apart in the rubber bellow door to pillar. You can check by wiring up a lamp to the lock motor wires. Lamp should light up briefly (1-2 seconds) while the lock motors are energised.
If you find that one or more wires are disrupted, then using careful violence, pull each motor wire to try if it slips into the door.
The wires that cant resist mild violence are obviously to be replaced.
This is done by sacrificing a sound wire to use as a pull-wire, pulling 2 new wires through he bellow. You may use any wire as a pull wire, if you observe the correct gauge of the new wire.
Secondly : Any lock motor will require only 2 wires for the motor feed. To L or UNL - you simply reverse the polarity.
The front door motors have a special feature requiring 3 extra wires. This is the L or UNL position sensor switches build on to the motor. These position sensor switches are activated when you turn the key in the lock barrel., as the lock rods is pushing the motor in either position (the motordrive is very easy to push/pull).
The common design is that one of these extra 3 wires is a ground wire, then either position switch returns a ground signal to the CL unit.
In other words : you have been given a rear door (or sometimes a front passenger door) motor with no lock position switches.
Have a fiddle and please report back
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
Tx J 8)