fluid return pipe leak

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 24 Mar 2007, 14:06

Hello, I've got a LHM leak from the front strut fluid return pipe on my Xantia, On the back of the strut theres a rubber block with a rubber pipe coming out of it that widens with what looks like another rubber pipe pushed into it, it's this part that's leaking. Can this pipe be changed separate from the rubber block and if so can it just be pulled apart, also can I use any bit of pipe to replace it?
Thanks,
Fangy.

Stewart(oily) · Post by **Stewart(oily)** » 24 Mar 2007, 15:06

Cheap enough from GSF or the dealer, they can sometimes be repaired using a bit of metal brake pipe pushed inside .
Stewart

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 24 Mar 2007, 15:12

Should be a rubber block with molded on rubber hose. If its possible to separate it sounds like its been 'repaired' already in the past.

Its a common part : Xantia front strut cylinder leak-off pipe.
Available from GSF, Eurocarparts etc etc and of course your Citroen stealer.
approx £15 my est.

Note : its a low pressure leak-off pipe.
If you experience high pressure flow rate from this pipe, the front strut cylinder is defective and must then be replaced.

The return flow is the same pipe as the feed pipe - the one you can see at the sphere in the engine bay. I.e. the hydraulic fluid runs both ways in this pipe depending on the working condition.

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 24 Mar 2007, 21:35

Thanks for the help once again, Does this rubber block come of by just cutting the metal band round the strut and is it easy to seal up again?
Fangy

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 24 Mar 2007, 22:54

fangy wrote:Thanks for the help once again, Does this rubber block come of by just cutting the metal band round the strut and is it easy to seal up again?
Fangy

Exactly 8)

mpr1956 · Post by **mpr1956** » 25 Mar 2007, 22:06

Hi Fangy.. the new front strut cylinder leak-off pipe should be supplied with the metal retaining band, which is secured by using a special plier which "pulls" the band tight around the strut.. the band has a cutout and lip which snaps into position thereby securing the block against the hole in the strut. I manage this by using slip joint pliers and a screwdriver, but I have heard that a jubilee clip is an effective alternative to the clip if you don't mind a bodge to get you mobile again till this clip can be secured properly. This fault is such a cheap and easy fix that it is worth doing properly, really. Best wishes, Martin

Post by **Peter.N.** » 25 Mar 2007, 22:24

Mine are held on with plastic cable ties!

mpr1956 · Post by **mpr1956** » 25 Mar 2007, 22:46

I hadn't thought of that Peter ! now cable ties have been mentioned, I have found that those sold by Halfords are the strongest I have ever used. I have always wondered how people on this forum have managed effective seals on cv gaiters with them, as the ones I tried always broke before sufficient tension was applied. But I was in a bind and bought some "long blue ones" and they worked so well that I have left them in place. Best stop now as endorsing H******s and going off topic could be too much !! Best wishes, Martin

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 29 Mar 2007, 14:01

Thanks for the advice.
Just received my new fluid return pipe through the post from GSF, with the clip you mentioned. Do I have to dismantle the strut to get this on or does it unclip and come apart? The cable tie option is becoming very appealing if I have to strip this damn strut.
Cheers,
Fangy.

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 29 Mar 2007, 14:35

No dismantling required- just have a clean up around the strut and then cut the steel band, the pipe will then just come away.

Mine are attached with jubilee clips, and cable ties are just as good-it's low pressure,if you use ties just don't overdo it by pulling them too tight, or the block at the base of the pipe will distort and leak.

Stewart(oily) · Post by **Stewart(oily)** » 29 Mar 2007, 15:01

I normally use the stainless plate meant to keep the block in shape and a large hose clip, I have found cable ties not to be too effective, though very good ones might be okay, I generally cut the old steel band using pliers and I have heard of folks having some success fitting the standard steel bands using pincers but have not tried it yet myself.
Stewart

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 29 Mar 2007, 20:14

Does anyone know the name of the pliers that I need to close the clip on the band? and can anyone describe how to close it, do you just crush the two raised up bits together?
Fangy.

mpr1956 · Post by **mpr1956** » 29 Mar 2007, 23:22

Hi Fangy.. I'll try to describe it as best I can... Position the rubber block and clip correctly, then - using slip joint pliers position the "upper" jaw of the pliers over the V shaped outcrop of the metal clip. I then position the side edge of a flat-bladed screwdriver where the lip of the clip snaps over to secure the whole thing. the "lower" jaw of the plier is then placed against the other side edge of the screwdriver and squeeze until the lip of the clip snaps into position. I hope you can see what I mean, as I am not sure how to post pictures !! Best wishes, Martin

fangy · Post by **fangy** » 30 Mar 2007, 20:55

Thanks for the help but I still don't get it, I've uploaded a picture of the clip if someone could explain using the letters I've put on.
Fangy.

mpr1956 · Post by **mpr1956** » 30 Mar 2007, 21:32

Hi Fangy.. It makes more sense(hopefully) with a picture... Position the rubber block and clip correctly, then - using slip joint pliers position the "upper" jaw of the pliers over the V shaped outcrop of the metal clip("C" in the pic). I then position the side edge of a flat-bladed screwdriver where the lip of the clip snaps over to secure the whole thing("A"). the "lower" jaw of the plier is then placed against the other side edge of the screwdriver and squeeze until the lip of the clip snaps into position. As the clip is tightened, "D" will click onto "B" in the "first" position allowing you to make any final adjustments -then hopefully a further squeeze will both allow "D" to engage with "B" and "C" can clip over "A" due to the blade of the screwdriver holding the jaw of the plier away. As you can probably guess, I do not write technical manuals but hopefully things are a little clearer ! Best Wishes, Martin