lhm change
Moderator: RichardW
-
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 26 Feb 2007, 00:00
- Location:
- My Cars:
lhm change
hi guys whats involved in a complete lhm change and filter clean on a 95 m reg xantia 1.9td.i presume the brakes have to be bled but what bout the steering/suspension?is it imperative to get all the old stuff out?the car has done 152000 miles and has never had the fluid changed...overdue yeh?thanx
- Xaccers
- Posts: 7654
- Joined: 07 Feb 2007, 23:46
- Location: Milling around Milton Keynes
- My Cars:
- x 184
I followed the BoL (Haynes manual) and it covers it quite well.
The pipes that come out of the resevoir are held in place by a plastic rack clipped to the side.
I was able to unclip this and remove the filter unit (which I protected with a washed and dried coke bottle with it's top cut off) and move it out the way.
The resevoir has a peg out the bottom which fits very tightly into a hole underneath making it a pain to get out.
No idea when my car had it done before, but the stuff I poured out of the resevoir was brown not green, making me think they may have replaced the lhm with hydraflush, but then neglected to replace the hydraflush with lhm!
The pipes that come out of the resevoir are held in place by a plastic rack clipped to the side.
I was able to unclip this and remove the filter unit (which I protected with a washed and dried coke bottle with it's top cut off) and move it out the way.
The resevoir has a peg out the bottom which fits very tightly into a hole underneath making it a pain to get out.
No idea when my car had it done before, but the stuff I poured out of the resevoir was brown not green, making me think they may have replaced the lhm with hydraflush, but then neglected to replace the hydraflush with lhm!
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
It's an easy job.
Lower the car into the lowest on the height lever.
Undo the 12mm bleed screw on the regulator.
Useing a piece of clear hose, syphon as much from the tank as you can.
Undo the spring wire clip thingy fron the top.
Remove the 2 x M6 nuts that hold the tank in place.
Pull the tank up and tip (thats why you syphoned)
The hose and fliter assembly will come out complete.
Put some rags around to soak the drips.
Remove the strainers from the tank top assembly.
Wash the tank and strainers with parrafin
Clean the tank top assembly with parrafin.
(parrafin is cheaper than petrol and will not harm the system)
When clean, dry as much as you can, then re-fit
Fill with Hydraflush approx 4 x litres
Start the engine and leave on tickover for about 2 mins
Tighten the bleed screw on the regulator.
Lifit up to high.
Check the level (top up if needed)
Remove the wheels and bleed the brakes.
NOTE, The back brakes will not bleed unless the car is in high.
Bleed untill flushing fluid appears at each caliper.
NOTE, A decent accumulator sphere will hold enough reserve to bleed the brakes, if the flow stops you will need to start the engine.
Put the wheels back on.
Start up and check level again (in high)
Drive as normal for 2 weeks.
Do it all again, but this time use LHM instead of hydraflush.
In my opinion (for what it's worth) use only Castrol or Total LHM.
Hope this helps a bit.
Regards
Slim.
Lower the car into the lowest on the height lever.
Undo the 12mm bleed screw on the regulator.
Useing a piece of clear hose, syphon as much from the tank as you can.
Undo the spring wire clip thingy fron the top.
Remove the 2 x M6 nuts that hold the tank in place.
Pull the tank up and tip (thats why you syphoned)
The hose and fliter assembly will come out complete.
Put some rags around to soak the drips.
Remove the strainers from the tank top assembly.
Wash the tank and strainers with parrafin
Clean the tank top assembly with parrafin.
(parrafin is cheaper than petrol and will not harm the system)
When clean, dry as much as you can, then re-fit
Fill with Hydraflush approx 4 x litres
Start the engine and leave on tickover for about 2 mins
Tighten the bleed screw on the regulator.
Lifit up to high.
Check the level (top up if needed)
Remove the wheels and bleed the brakes.
NOTE, The back brakes will not bleed unless the car is in high.
Bleed untill flushing fluid appears at each caliper.
NOTE, A decent accumulator sphere will hold enough reserve to bleed the brakes, if the flow stops you will need to start the engine.
Put the wheels back on.
Start up and check level again (in high)
Drive as normal for 2 weeks.
Do it all again, but this time use LHM instead of hydraflush.
In my opinion (for what it's worth) use only Castrol or Total LHM.
Hope this helps a bit.
Regards
Slim.
Just a little note of warning re the extremely sharp inside edge of the lhm reservoir. This has been known to be the cause of many accidents when cleaning out the debris etc with a cloth or paper towels and can cause a nasty cut on the forearm etc etc.....just a word of warning.
Mike
1993 BX TXD EST mmm. nice. 1990 Bx 19TZD Auto Lhd (now lives in France) 1998 Xsara 1.9d lx.
1993 BX TXD EST mmm. nice. 1990 Bx 19TZD Auto Lhd (now lives in France) 1998 Xsara 1.9d lx.
-
- Posts: 365
- Joined: 04 Aug 2002, 04:01
- Location:
- My Cars:
if i remember rightly the lhm tank on a xantia is ok for sharp edges, it's mainly on the bx and yes i have been sliced by one beforemicitroen wrote:Just a little note of warning re the extremely sharp inside edge of the lhm reservoir. This has been known to be the cause of many accidents when cleaning out the debris etc with a cloth or paper towels and can cause a nasty cut on the forearm etc etc.....just a word of warning.