Is replacing one of these pumps a massive job at all?
Im guesing i have to lock the cam and take a zillion pipes off to get at the thing(will probably do the glowplug while im at it as well) but how do you time one up if you buy a 2nd hand unit at all as im tired of my one leaking as its only a dribble and once the engine has stopped as well
Any help appreciated
Last edited by KP on 09 Oct 2006, 12:44, edited 1 time in total.
In theory you can do it without disturbing the cam belt - this is why the pump sprocket has 2 bolts in it. I think the route is remove the front belt cover, fit the two timing bolts, remove the pump mounting nuts, then the sprocket nut - and I think the nut incorporates a self puller mechanism to get the sprocket off the taper. You will need one of those bendy restricted acess spanners to get the mounting nuts undone - even then it doesn't look easy! You will need a dial test indicator to set the timing with the new pump fitted. Yes - change the glow plug behind the pump whilst it's out, it will take about 15 seconds!
hmmm sounds like its better to give the cash and a second hand pump to a friendly car mechanic who does foriegners than take it on to be honest....
Is there anything i could do to the new(er) pump before it goes on other than posibly give it a dam good cleaning with engine degreaser on teh outside to make the job easier for him? i was going to try and work out what part of the pump its leaking from and try something to seal it up but its right on the side that faces the block/head and i cant actually even see it
Just to note as well ive noticed the drops are coming from the end with the High Pressure outlets so im going to ensure they are tightened up. there is a bolt i the middle of the 4 outlets, is this to hold the housing together as i may ensure thats tightened as well. Is there anything else i can ensure hasnt rattled loose possible as all this has started to come about since the lower rear mount blew itself to bits so im guessing something has flexed or vibrated more than it wanted to possibly
Its the sensor thread on the top above the HP outlets in the pictures above that its leaking from
Im going to take as much piping off tomorrow morning and try and reseal it with some thread lock and see if that helps as i have to go norfolk and back it should lock it in
Hello kp it looks like it's the stop solenoid if I am looking in the right place, they can leak where they are crimped together, trying to seal them does not work very well as it is difficult to clean the fuel off well enough. The bolt on the end of the pump in the centre of all the (4) injector pipes seals the port for use with a gauge for timing the pump. It has a very thin copper washer under the head. One place that can leak is the max fueling screw which is sealed with an "O" ring, the fuel can creap along the thread and drip onto the solenoid.
If the rear bracket has fractured then it should be sorted. The throttle cable looks as if it is about to part company.
Cheers.
Geoff.
My Cars: Citroens since 1990, BX Diesel, GTI, TZD with 1.9 TD running extra boost before it was fashionable!, ZX Volcane TD, S2 Xantia break 1.9TD, Xantia HDI 110, currently zipping about in a C2 Diesel. C2 died from the dreaded worm, C3 Picasso HDI Exclusive, the adventure continues.
I am in the middle of replacing a Bosch pump right now, I have seen the stop solenoids leak where they are crimped together, if thats your problem then congratulations, Re the pump replacement its not a bad job, I would replace the cambelt at the same time, I am going to time this one initially by lining it up with the dirty marks left by the original one, though I have had to rotate them in the slotted mounting holes to get sweet running, its very surprising how a millimetre or so can turn a misfiring spitting smoking heap into a smooth runner, wish me luck.
Stewart
BXs since 1993 built 1.9 TZD turbo, got a S2 Xantia estate, brilliant car! 2013, Xantia HDI LX 110 2000 new car with 122,000, l C2 HDI Rusty rocket, C3 Picasso HDI new to me.
Cheers guys, guess i have a lot of pipes to remove in the early morning
The cable has been a bit rough for a while and been one of those things i have on the list to do for her and the spare is in the car as well just incase really
she has a new cambelt on her which has done 2k but with the price of them id prob just get another anyway for her if it has to come off
Thanks again for the advice guys, lots of ripping apart to do tomorrow
Well im sure its 23mm but the leak doesnt appear to be coming from there there is a very very small seep from there but nothing like the dribble im seeing come from the pump
The search goes on i guess Thanks all for the advice though
Just to update after checking the stop solenoid and around abouts over ther is hardly a drop coming from there at all
I have tracked it down to som form of plate on the back of the IP pump right down near the head. I am assuming this is some for of take off plate for another application but serves no purpose on an XUD engine. It may have been knocked during replacement of the head but it has now started to eat thru the rubber mount i have recently replaced(its come awy from its metal sheath. the internal rubber section i mean) so that will be a french fix on that one easily enough of re-glueing it.
Any ideas what this plate is and if there is a part number for the gasket or if its just an instant gasket thing and let it dry for a bit and then torque the plate down and araldite the bugger, or maybe liquid metal it....
