Engine Swop Auto To Manual

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 02:04

Does anyone know if the engines are the same, will an engine from a car fitted with auto transmission fit in a car with manual trasmission, will the engine mate up correctly, both cars 1998 MK2, the auto box is AL4, this box is faulty it drives briefly when engine first started and then very shortly afterwards no drive in any gear, if you switch off leave for a short time then you have drive again briefly, I am going to check fluid level shortly but these boxes are not supposed to need topping up. I cannot see if there are any leaks yet as this car has the shield fitted under the engine, the first one that I have owned that has one. I have only just bought this car just for something to play around with and if I cannot solve this problem then maybe I can salvage the engine as a spare for the other 2 Xantias that I have. The engine is a 1905 TD XUD9.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 30 Sep 2006, 09:33

I havn't had any experience with this particular engine but generally both are pretty much the same with the exception of the gearbox spiggot bearing which on some engines is in the flywheel and others in the end of the crankshaft. If its in the flywheel, no problem because you will be changing that over anyway, if not you will probably have to fit one. I am sure someone else will come up with any other problems.

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 09:43

Hello Peter, Thanks for your reply, it is the end of the crankshaft bit that I am unsure about, how is the drive trasnsmitted from the end to the auto box, will I be able to bolt the flywheel on to the shaft or is the end different for the auto box. It really is a nice engine and if the problem with the auto box is too difficult to fix it would be a shame not to have the engine as a spare.

John

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 30 Sep 2006, 09:57

The engines are the same. The diesel distributor pump however is a bit different as it has an extra timing modifier device built on. Believe you could simply leave it as it is not connected when used as a manual power unit.

An autobox is a nice add-on feature if the car is used for everyday commuting in town traffic. Its amazing how much higher comfort you get when you dont have to do thoese endless up/down gearshifting.

If that box takes up drive initially and then looses its drive in any gear - I'd say the chance is for a fluid level problem - or the valveblock failing.
If you are a wizzard on car DIY work - give the box a chance. An autobox is complicated allright - but not THAT complicated. A nice winter project.

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 11:21

Hi Anders, Thanks for your reply, I also notice that the Turbo Boost pressure is fed to the pump via an electro valve, I have bought this car to play about with, it was very cheap, I do not need it, it is just something to occupy a bit of time. I would like the auto transmission though, this box seems to be electronically controlled, it does have an ECU and I beleive torque lock in the top two gears to help with fuel consumption. It also has some sort of device that tells the ECU when the fluid is dirty, this I think has to be reset at the Main Agent if you change the fluid, this is a nuisance. I have worked on auto boxes before, clutch changes etc. but this was years ago on on old Austin 1800, this box was very simple , no elactronics

John

Post by **Peter.N.** » 30 Sep 2006, 11:43

Hi John. In my experience with other engines the crankshaft has been the same, its usually just a question of unbolting the torque converter and bolting on the flywheel.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 30 Sep 2006, 12:07

There are many independant auto box specialists - and it may be worth your while to look for one near you and let him have a look after you've done basic checks.

Strange thing is that there are many more auto box specialists than manual ones.

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 12:27

Hi Jeramy, Thanks for your reply, I have had dealings in the past with auto gearbox specialists and they frighten me, they seem to be very expensive, in most cases the type of cars that I have are not worth a lot and the specialist seem to want more than it would cost to buy another vehicle that was in full working condition. The car at the moment is not really driveable, you only get a few yards and then you have to switch off wait a few minutes and then repeat the process to make any progress. I did trailer the car home and would have to trailer it to the specialist. With a bit of luck it will be short of fluid, my theory is that I get drive after the engine has been stopped due to the fluid draining out of the various bits allowing the torque converter to function untill all the bits have been filled up again thus reducing the level, I suppose this is wishfull thinking but you never know. I have no access to my garage at the momentb as my Grandson has his Autograss Racer in for an engine change, should be done tommorrow with a bit of luck.

John

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 12:32

Hi Peter, Thanks for your reply, if this is the case then I should not have a problem, but from somewherev in the dim and distant past I worked on a car I thinkn it was a Mini but not sure and the end of the shaft was machined differently on the Auto. The shaft on the Mini was different to norma cars, I think it was tapered with a thead cut in the end.

John l

Post by **Peter.N.** » 30 Sep 2006, 14:06

Hi John.. Well my last experience was with my sons 3 litre Capri, into which a fitted an engine from a Granada auto, it was a straight swap apart from the spigot bearing, but they do vary. What you say about the cost of auto box repairs is quite true, which is one of the reasons I wouldn't have one, another is their inneficiency and also the fact that if a manual box develops a fault it doesn't usually prevent you using the car from being used. If you live and drive in a city, I can see the case for one, but I live and drive mostly in the country and wouldn't have one for a gift!

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 14:29

Hi Peter, Yes I know were you are coming from with you comments, but these boxes are supposed to be designed with economy in mind, all this electronic control and torque lock on at least the top two gears is with fuel consumption in mind, |I have been told there is not a lot of difference between this auto and a manual box, this remains to be seen. I have had other automatics, a Nissan Bluebird and a Honda Accord and these were a delight to drive, just press one pedal to go and another to stop, these cars wre petrol but the 2 litre bluebird gave 35mpg on a run and 22mpg towing, this also had lock on top. The Honda was a 2.2 also with lock on top, this gave 30mpg on a run. The one thing that spoils the pleasure of driving my Xantias is the clutch they always seem heavy and a little juddery, my Artritis is begining to object. I have only bought this car to play around with but if I sort it I know I am going to enjoy a relaxed drive.

John

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 30 Sep 2006, 19:13

I have come across this cold problem with automatics before- on of all things a Bristol 408, - all 5.3 litres of it! - Cold it would just sit there and wobble - warm - it was fine.

I like autos myself - as a city dweller but don't currently have one. Enjoyed my Jaguar XJ6's - when in any case the clutches were so heavy and the handbrake so awkward that the thing would have been unpleasant for a towny.

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 19:39

Jeramy, I do not think this has anything to do with the oil temp., it does this when it is up to temp as well as when it is cold, you get drive for a short time after starting and then if you switch off for a minute or two you get drive for a short time again, hot or cold.

John

Post by **ekaftan** » 30 Sep 2006, 20:38

acrowot wrote:Jeramy, I do not think this has anything to do with the oil temp., it does this when it is up to temp as well as when it is cold, you get drive for a short time after starting and then if you switch off for a minute or two you get drive for a short time again, hot or cold.

John

Thats is normally a sign of a clogged inlet filter.

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 30 Sep 2006, 20:58

Hi ekaftan, Were would this filter be please.

John