These aren't BIG jobs, but I've been putting them off and the MOT looms...
The windscreen washers have stopped working!! I know! Wow, big deal!
Still an MOT fail though!
The motor can be clearly heard and I've done the obvious checks; Yes,
there is plenty of water in the bottle, and the pipework appears to be clear
and unblocked. Now the thing is, the damned bottle is down in the front
right wing behind the bumper and I don't fancy removing the bumper as
Mr Haynes suggests! Is there enough access if the wheelarch liner is
removed? I've scrapped three Xantias now, One ages ago, another I didn't
take the rubbish wings or bumper off and the latest had it all removed by
it's front impact on the M6 before I got hold of it...
Ok, another! The bonnet release cable! With this one Mr Haynes says
remove the dashboard AND heater!! Oh Joy, pass me the tin
opener instead...! Anyone been here with this one before with some hints?
After the elation of very successfully fixing the seized front height
corrector today (what a pain in the ar5e job that was...!) these jobs have
deflated me a tad.
Andrew
Piddly Xantia jobs - your suggestions!?
Moderator: RichardW
Piddly Xantia jobs - your suggestions!?
Last edited by andmcit on 23 Sep 2006, 22:25, edited 1 time in total.
With the winscreen washers, is it only the front ones that don't work, or do the rear ones not work as well ? Both run off the same water supply and the same pump....
I'd be checking if the nozzles are blocked first....if you disconnect the hoses at the nozzles (careful as the nozzles are quite delicate!) do you get water then ?
Oh, and to get at the bottle, you have to take the entire bumper off... sorry....
Regards,
Simon
I'd be checking if the nozzles are blocked first....if you disconnect the hoses at the nozzles (careful as the nozzles are quite delicate!) do you get water then ?
Oh, and to get at the bottle, you have to take the entire bumper off... sorry....
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Mine exhibited the same and I found that the pipe to the squirts was not connected into the bonnet rubber seal (strange arrangement) just re-connected and all was fine again.
Ian
Account Ref: 6419
Current Cars
Nissan X-Trail SVE
Saab 2.2TiD
Merc E270 Estate
Past Citroens
2001 Xantia 3.0 Exclusive
1999 Xantia 1.9TD
1997 Xantia 3.0 Exclusive
1995 XM 3.0 Exclusive Estate
Account Ref: 6419
Current Cars
Nissan X-Trail SVE
Saab 2.2TiD
Merc E270 Estate
Past Citroens
2001 Xantia 3.0 Exclusive
1999 Xantia 1.9TD
1997 Xantia 3.0 Exclusive
1995 XM 3.0 Exclusive Estate
as Simon said
have you checked for screen wash at the pipe with it removed from the jet,if there is not check where the pipe comes up by the bonnet hindge as they get trapped and creased,or some times the pump just stops pumping one side,so for MOT purposes you could just switch the two pipes over where they come off the pump and use the rear switch setting at the MOT,and you can get at the water tank and pumps from under the wing
regards malcolm
have you checked for screen wash at the pipe with it removed from the jet,if there is not check where the pipe comes up by the bonnet hindge as they get trapped and creased,or some times the pump just stops pumping one side,so for MOT purposes you could just switch the two pipes over where they come off the pump and use the rear switch setting at the MOT,and you can get at the water tank and pumps from under the wing
regards malcolm
Not 100% sure, but I think that it was on a Xantia, that I replaced the washer pump by removing the O/S indicator and putting my hand in through the hole.
Try it !!!
But there is no need to remove the bumper, just remove the wheel and pull the inner lining up as far as it will go, the bottle will reveal itself.
Regards
Slim
Try it !!!
But there is no need to remove the bumper, just remove the wheel and pull the inner lining up as far as it will go, the bottle will reveal itself.
Regards
Slim
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If you have to take the bottle out it will come out if you take off the front wheel and remove the liner, fiddly job but not too bad. You should check that the breather pipe is not blocked, access can be gained by removing the indicator pod.
It infuriates me to be wrong when I know I'm right
Lexia ponce
http://perception.dyndns.biz/~avengineering/index.htm
Lexia ponce
http://perception.dyndns.biz/~avengineering/index.htm
Update!! Thanks all for your suggestions!
I elected to try the 'easy' approach of checking behind the liner first so got
the car all supported up at the front first with the plan to remove the wheel
as well and have a closer look-see!
The fault actually made itself obvious after an intensive 'hit' with it - I ran the
screen washers for absolutely ages until I found a puddle of water forming
at the rear end of the driver's wheelarch area (I hadn't run it this long before
as the wipers weren't too happy juddering over a dry smeary windscreen so
I made sure they were up in the air out of the way today).
Got the car jacked up and removed the wheel and wheelarch liner and found
the problem straight away - there's a joint in the feed pipework that had
popped apart probably due to a well blocked nearside washer jet - the water
was running down the liner and getting absorbed into a massive pile of built
up crud that was BEHIND the liner against the A pillar...
Ok, one job off the list!! Any suggestions about dash out with heater jobs
for the bonnet release cable - I like the idea of string on the end before
pulling the old one out as Mr Haynes suggests, BUT I don't like the dash
out suggestion!
Andrew
I elected to try the 'easy' approach of checking behind the liner first so got
the car all supported up at the front first with the plan to remove the wheel
as well and have a closer look-see!
The fault actually made itself obvious after an intensive 'hit' with it - I ran the
screen washers for absolutely ages until I found a puddle of water forming
at the rear end of the driver's wheelarch area (I hadn't run it this long before
as the wipers weren't too happy juddering over a dry smeary windscreen so
I made sure they were up in the air out of the way today).
Got the car jacked up and removed the wheel and wheelarch liner and found
the problem straight away - there's a joint in the feed pipework that had
popped apart probably due to a well blocked nearside washer jet - the water
was running down the liner and getting absorbed into a massive pile of built
up crud that was BEHIND the liner against the A pillar...
Ok, one job off the list!! Any suggestions about dash out with heater jobs
for the bonnet release cable - I like the idea of string on the end before
pulling the old one out as Mr Haynes suggests, BUT I don't like the dash
out suggestion!
Andrew
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- Location: not applicable
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- x 1
Sorry to jump into your thread but I couldn't believe what I was reading when the Haynes BOL said that to remove the centre console the handbrake cable have to be released from the calipers! I already had the passenger seat out so I chocked the wheels and unbolted the handbrake lever. Only took 5 minutes. Haynes...
Good luck with the other jobs.
Steve.
Good luck with the other jobs.
Steve.
not applicable
Interestingly enough, I've just got back from further spannering on a Xantia
estate I've been breaking for spares. Mr Haynes in this instance is talking
more 'off his head' than is usually the case!!
The cable runs along the nearside wing across the bulkhead and enters the
driver's footwell about level with the middle of the car directed towards the
pedals - it emerges into the cabin between the heater and the pedalbox and
then goes a bit skippy, in that it loops upwards through a massive metal
dashboard support armature and back down to the centre of the steering
column. The only pain is a clip the cable is held by in this support, all in the
quest to hold it up away from the pedals.
I think a swap is dooable, although I don't think it needs such a complicated
route once inside the car, and I'll give it a go when the weather is more
condusive to scrabbling about on my hands & knees in the driver's footwell
- next May then...
Things look quite scary once the dash has come out - I should have taken
some piccies showing the fabled heater matrix...
Andrew
estate I've been breaking for spares. Mr Haynes in this instance is talking
more 'off his head' than is usually the case!!
The cable runs along the nearside wing across the bulkhead and enters the
driver's footwell about level with the middle of the car directed towards the
pedals - it emerges into the cabin between the heater and the pedalbox and
then goes a bit skippy, in that it loops upwards through a massive metal
dashboard support armature and back down to the centre of the steering
column. The only pain is a clip the cable is held by in this support, all in the
quest to hold it up away from the pedals.
I think a swap is dooable, although I don't think it needs such a complicated
route once inside the car, and I'll give it a go when the weather is more
condusive to scrabbling about on my hands & knees in the driver's footwell
- next May then...
Things look quite scary once the dash has come out - I should have taken
some piccies showing the fabled heater matrix...
Andrew