Xantia difficult to start when cold

scon1 · Post by **scon1** » 19 Dec 2002, 15:29

I have a '96 Xantia, 137k on the clock...regular use 120 miles per day.
Been difficult in this cold weather to start. I have had a cambelt change, changed the fuel filter. Tried the primer, to pump fuel through to start and things have not improved. The engine will fire as soon as it would when warm starting, but refusing to run. I activate the glow plugs twice, counting to 10 or waiting for the click of the relay each time and this appears to help a little. I have tried flooring or blipping the throttle while turning the engine over and this again helps a little, the car will eventually start on the last gasp of the battery (Also new!).
The car will start no problem straight after the initial start, or at any other point up to 8hrs after! Ideas appreciated

Post by **Jon** » 19 Dec 2002, 16:54

and, have you fitted new glow plugs?
Jon Wood
forum@andyspares.com

scon1 · Post by **scon1** » 19 Dec 2002, 17:04

Not been brave enough yet, I am not liking the look of access to the first one (at the cam belt end)!
Is it more likely to be plugs than air?
How do I know if a glow plug is dead?

fatbugger · Post by **fatbugger** » 19 Dec 2002, 17:13

I think Jon has the correct answer there. Had to do my own and my wifes glowplugs a couple of months ago. Bit of a pig to do but well worth the time and effort spent. Both start like a dream now. Biggest problem I had was getting the connecting wire back on.
Mike

huwhop · Post by **huwhop** » 19 Dec 2002, 20:18

I had this problem on my 1.9 diesel BX..in the end we renewed the main pump seal and changed the fuel filter housing..not sure which was the culprit as the jobs were done at the same time..personally I feel it was probably the fuel filter housing with a hairline crack..but not 100% sure

Gaz · Post by **Gaz** » 19 Dec 2002, 21:17

Garage people have called me a liar but I have personally changed all 4 glowplugs without removing anything of the engine. I admit it wasn't easy and had a scrapped knuckle but it is possible (even with big hands). To test: take the connecting bar that crosses all four plugs off, just off the plug thread/nut not out of the car. Put a multimeter across them individually, each one should be around 1 Ohm resistance, much more shows that they are shot. Do not try to do this whilst they are connected together because one good plug will show that all are fine due to the calculations required. I had real trouble with the same problem when I first had the car, three of the four were shot. I still wait 5 seconds after the pre-heat light goes out to make sure of a good solid start, it has not failed me once since (down to -4 the other morning). Good luck Gaz

pete woods · Post by **pete woods** » 19 Dec 2002, 23:27

Look back a week & you will see I have had the same problem. I found out that the prev owner got rid of it because of poor starting after spending a fortune at a main dealer trying to sort it out. It had a new cam belt, battery & glow plugs with no inprovement. Most people suggested I start by changing the glow plugs again so I went to do this today. I took out 2 but they looked perfect & when I tested them they went orange at the tip within 3 secs. I put them back & started looking else where for a fault. all the fuel lines have what appear to be the original lines & clips on them. When I pulled at the outlet pipe from the fuel filter it was firm but when I twisted it it seemed to come unstuck & could be moved freely even with the clip still on. The same happened with the top fitting. The pipes also seem to have hardened although that may just be the cold. I had a couple of fuel pipe clips in the garage so I put them on in place of the originals.
I started the car after priming it then left it sitting for about 6 hours.
I have just been down to it & it started after about 3 secs rather than the 30 odd i've been used to.
It may be a false dawn but it seems better & putting new clips on may do the trick for you too.
ps
There was not a hint of a leak from the pipes before

timmsd · Post by **timmsd** » 20 Dec 2002, 02:20

It sounds to me like either glow plugs or air in the system.
To check the plugs do as suggested. Disconnect the electrical line and check for continuity between the end of the plug and earth. High resistance or infinite means it is shot. To check for air remove the return pipe from the top of the pump and put a length of transparent pipe from the outlet. Put the other end into a container to catch the returning diesel. Start up and look for air in the return. Rev up a little and check. There should be no air showing. I have had both plugs and air cause problems starting. Air leak is worst after a few hours as the fuel drains back to the tank.
Good luck.

huwhop · Post by **huwhop** » 20 Dec 2002, 03:57

For what it's worth I'd check for all potential fuel line leaks..pre-heater?..and then I'd think about swapping the fuel filter housing. From my experience be wary if they suggest the pump as the culprit at the very outset..it'll be a dear job in the end I'll wager and I'd eradicate all other faults before removing the diesel pump from the system. Huw

scon1 · Post by **scon1** » 21 Dec 2002, 03:39

I have checked the glow plugs, and 1 was shot. This I have changed, but I cannot see that 1 plug caused the starting problems. It has been suggested by a techy that the engine could be low in compression due to the mileage, would there be any other symptoms. Once started the car drives as it did at 137 miles, does not feel at all like 137k.
Where would the most likely air leaks be??? or could it be low in compression..