Our Citroen Xantias suspension is bouncing around all over the place, the car bounces so much now that it is dangerous so we have stopped driving it and ordered new front and rear spheres.
We now need to fix them in, and here are the problems!
Our car is non hydroactive and we are not sure whether the posts on here relate to hydroactive or non hydroactive cars?
We have also noticed a shpere now under the radiator?
What is the easiest - simplest to understand way to change these spheres?! and do I need to change this "fifth" sphere too?
Any help you can give would be much much appreciated!
Citroen Xantia 94 "M" Spheres gone?
Moderator: RichardW
I changed the spheres on my car in which the setup is similar to yours a couple of months ago.
It's fairly easy. Just removing the rear rusty spheres can be a pain in the arse. I found it easier to "crack" these ones off with the system still pressurised (Car on stands of course!) I used the chisel method. It was very easy this way.
The fronts are pretty easy as are much less corroded. A couple of handy tips for allowing easy removal of the spheres in the future is to apply some silicone grease to the mating face of the sphere and to also remove the spheres with each oil change and clean and apply more grease to the face.
When putting the new spheres on, make sure you apply clean LHM to the new seals and place those in the carrier (not onto the sphere) or they'll get pinched.
With regard to the fifth sphere....this is the accumulator sphere which is attached to the regulator. If the regulator clicks more often than 30 seconds then it needs replacing. This is important to replace as it keeps the system working smoothly and also provides backup pressure if the system develops a leak allowing emergency breaking.
I'd also check the quality of the LHM while your there. If it's not a bright green then it'll need replacing. There's plenty of posts here on how to do this..it's a very straightforward job!
It's fairly easy. Just removing the rear rusty spheres can be a pain in the arse. I found it easier to "crack" these ones off with the system still pressurised (Car on stands of course!) I used the chisel method. It was very easy this way.
The fronts are pretty easy as are much less corroded. A couple of handy tips for allowing easy removal of the spheres in the future is to apply some silicone grease to the mating face of the sphere and to also remove the spheres with each oil change and clean and apply more grease to the face.
When putting the new spheres on, make sure you apply clean LHM to the new seals and place those in the carrier (not onto the sphere) or they'll get pinched.
With regard to the fifth sphere....this is the accumulator sphere which is attached to the regulator. If the regulator clicks more often than 30 seconds then it needs replacing. This is important to replace as it keeps the system working smoothly and also provides backup pressure if the system develops a leak allowing emergency breaking.
I'd also check the quality of the LHM while your there. If it's not a bright green then it'll need replacing. There's plenty of posts here on how to do this..it's a very straightforward job!
2004 Berlingo Multispace HDI, 105000
Oh, another tip - CHECK THE STRUT TOPS FOR SIGNS OF CORROSION
It'd be a shame to replace all those spheres and then have a strut top fail. Although the spheres look all nice and shiny when you change them, thats no reason to allow them to push through the bonnet so everyone can see!
It'd be a shame to replace all those spheres and then have a strut top fail. Although the spheres look all nice and shiny when you change them, thats no reason to allow them to push through the bonnet so everyone can see!
2004 Berlingo Multispace HDI, 105000
Please dont chisel the spheres off.
A sphere is a pressure vessel, the chances are if you have decided to change them, they are fairly low on pressure, but you dont know how low.
It is very bad and bodgy practice to remove the spheres in this way and what happens when the chisel slips as you belt it, bye bye pipe!!!
Get youself a proper tool and do the job properly.
Rear spheres.
Select high, run engine untill full height is reached.
stick a couple of stands under the car
Using a sutable wrench (band wrench not a chisel) turn the sphere approx 20' of its rotation, ie looking at a clock face, 6 o'clock to 4 o'clock
Start the engine and let the car depressurise onto the stands.
You can now remove by hand.
Dig out the old "O" ring and wipe the dirt from the suspension cylinder.
Dip a new "O" ring in fresh LHM and put this in the grove.
Put the new spheres on as tight as you can by hand only.
Front spheres
Select low (engine running)
When the car has depressurised switch off.
Using the sutable wrench again remove the front spheres.
When the fronts are loose, it helps if you place a bag over the spheres and undo inside the bag, this way you will catch the spilt fluid.
Remove the old "O" ring
Again as with the rears, dip the "O"ring in LHM and fit the "O" ring into the grove.
Fit the new spheres
Main accumulator
Select high engine running and swich off when full height is reached.
Place stands under the front.
Undo the 12mm bleed screw 2 turns
Using your sutable tool again (because you have now binned the chisel) remove the sphere.
Dip the new "O" ring in LHM and fit the "O" ring into the grove.
Fit the new sphere
Run the engine for 2 x mins
Tighten the 12mm bleed screw.
Now unless you have an old Xantia, the anti sink sphere at the back will need changing, do this one whilst the rear end is in the air and depresurised, but also do the following.
Undo the 12mm bleed screw on the regulator 2 x turns
using a 9mm flare nut spanner, slacken the 4.5mm pipe going into the back end of the sphere.
When this pipe has turned a couple of turns, put you wrench on the sphere and undo it, if you hold the spanner on the pipe fitting, both will come undone together.
Put a new rubber seal on the pipe and refit the pipe and sphere.
When all is done all you have to do is run the engine and lift the car up and down a few times then stop in the high position and check the fluid level, then return to normal height.
Please do not hit a pressure vessel with a hammer and chisel.
I allways get spheres from Pleiades (and anything else hydraulic) if you get spheres from them and ask, they will send with the spheres a comprehensive fitting sheet, this explains the procces and make an easy job even easier.
Regards
Slim
A sphere is a pressure vessel, the chances are if you have decided to change them, they are fairly low on pressure, but you dont know how low.
It is very bad and bodgy practice to remove the spheres in this way and what happens when the chisel slips as you belt it, bye bye pipe!!!
Get youself a proper tool and do the job properly.
Rear spheres.
Select high, run engine untill full height is reached.
stick a couple of stands under the car
Using a sutable wrench (band wrench not a chisel) turn the sphere approx 20' of its rotation, ie looking at a clock face, 6 o'clock to 4 o'clock
Start the engine and let the car depressurise onto the stands.
You can now remove by hand.
Dig out the old "O" ring and wipe the dirt from the suspension cylinder.
Dip a new "O" ring in fresh LHM and put this in the grove.
Put the new spheres on as tight as you can by hand only.
Front spheres
Select low (engine running)
When the car has depressurised switch off.
Using the sutable wrench again remove the front spheres.
When the fronts are loose, it helps if you place a bag over the spheres and undo inside the bag, this way you will catch the spilt fluid.
Remove the old "O" ring
Again as with the rears, dip the "O"ring in LHM and fit the "O" ring into the grove.
Fit the new spheres
Main accumulator
Select high engine running and swich off when full height is reached.
Place stands under the front.
Undo the 12mm bleed screw 2 turns
Using your sutable tool again (because you have now binned the chisel) remove the sphere.
Dip the new "O" ring in LHM and fit the "O" ring into the grove.
Fit the new sphere
Run the engine for 2 x mins
Tighten the 12mm bleed screw.
Now unless you have an old Xantia, the anti sink sphere at the back will need changing, do this one whilst the rear end is in the air and depresurised, but also do the following.
Undo the 12mm bleed screw on the regulator 2 x turns
using a 9mm flare nut spanner, slacken the 4.5mm pipe going into the back end of the sphere.
When this pipe has turned a couple of turns, put you wrench on the sphere and undo it, if you hold the spanner on the pipe fitting, both will come undone together.
Put a new rubber seal on the pipe and refit the pipe and sphere.
When all is done all you have to do is run the engine and lift the car up and down a few times then stop in the high position and check the fluid level, then return to normal height.
Please do not hit a pressure vessel with a hammer and chisel.
I allways get spheres from Pleiades (and anything else hydraulic) if you get spheres from them and ask, they will send with the spheres a comprehensive fitting sheet, this explains the procces and make an easy job even easier.
Regards
Slim