I've got to get under the car to get a few bits done tomorrow, and thought while I'm there I'd clean and re-lube the height correctors.
I was going to use a general purpose thinners type engine cleaner to do this, but what would the best lube/protector be for these?
I was thinking waxoyl, but would that foul them up?
Cheers
Cleaning & Relubing Height Correctors
Moderator: RichardW
Cleaning & Relubing Height Correctors
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The problem with waxoil is that it goes hard when its dried out and cold, doesn't matter on rigid metal surfaces but on anything that moves it is likely to chip off. I would think ordinary grease would be the best thing, the stickier the better. I think you can get waterproof grease. As previous post, clean and loosen up with WD40 first.
So best thing is really to clean and then apply grease with a good stiff brush and repeat every 6 months or so?Peter.N. wrote:The problem with waxoil is that it goes hard when its dried out and cold, doesn't matter on rigid metal surfaces but on anything that moves it is likely to chip off. I would think ordinary grease would be the best thing, the stickier the better. I think you can get waterproof grease. As previous post, clean and loosen up with WD40 first.
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When I first read the topic I thought you were going to be stripping the height correctors and cleaning them, but apparently not.
I should point out that cleaning the *outside* of a height corrector will do nothing as all the moving parts are inside, and its sealed
You can lubricate the spring/linkage assembly which is connected to the height corrector, but the height corrector itself (the small drum with the pipes going into it) can only be cleaned by stripping it down, and cleaning any grit/gunk out with petrol and compressed air, then reassembling it.
Regards,
Simon
I should point out that cleaning the *outside* of a height corrector will do nothing as all the moving parts are inside, and its sealed
You can lubricate the spring/linkage assembly which is connected to the height corrector, but the height corrector itself (the small drum with the pipes going into it) can only be cleaned by stripping it down, and cleaning any grit/gunk out with petrol and compressed air, then reassembling it.
Regards,
Simon
Simon
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The problem with anything oily or greasy is that dust will stick to it and absorb it, thats why Waxoil is better for rustproofing. Oil is better inside enclosed surfaces because it 'creeps' and gets into the seams which Waxoil doesn't do once its dried out, except perhaps in very hot weather.
Going back a few years most moving parts on a car had to be greased every 1000 miles or so, then the invented rubber gaiters / boots which protect the grease from the elements so that ball joints and things last almost indefinitly now. This is ideally what you want to do with your height control linkage, but unless you want to go into manufacturing, yes, what you suggest is the best course of action.
You can get 'sticky' oil, chain saw oil for instance, if you could get grease like that it would last much longer. The trick people used to do with leaf springs, was to grease them and the bind them with canvas or something similar, but that might be a bit difficult with your job.
Going back a few years most moving parts on a car had to be greased every 1000 miles or so, then the invented rubber gaiters / boots which protect the grease from the elements so that ball joints and things last almost indefinitly now. This is ideally what you want to do with your height control linkage, but unless you want to go into manufacturing, yes, what you suggest is the best course of action.
You can get 'sticky' oil, chain saw oil for instance, if you could get grease like that it would last much longer. The trick people used to do with leaf springs, was to grease them and the bind them with canvas or something similar, but that might be a bit difficult with your job.
What about spray grease...it seems to have a 'carrier' which penetrates and then evaporates leaving the grease behind. I use it on my door hinges etc.
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I make up a lovely mixture of chainsaw oil, grease, paraffin and engine oil then apply it to the linkages with a paintbrush, the idea is that when applied its rather runny but once the paraffin evaporates it thickens up, motorcycle ghain lube aerosol is good too, if the height corrector itself is seized then petrol is the recommended solvent for cleaning it out.
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Yes! this is what I used on my late Xantia and the previous BX, and every couple of years or so cleaning them down with gunk, before respraying. What I want to know is, should I treat my C5 the same way?f00lzz wrote:What about spray grease..
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