Xantia Rear Suspension Bouncy - 97 td vsx hatchback

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gadgetgricey
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Xantia Rear Suspension Bouncy - 97 td vsx hatchback

Post by gadgetgricey »

Hi everyone, looking for a bit of advice/guidance if that's O.K.
Just bought a xantia and I think there is reduced pressure to the rear suspension. You can push the back of the car down with ease. The front of the car is fine.
Checked the service history and both rear spheres were changed less than two years ago.
Also if you increase the ride height to the one above normal (not maximum) the rear suspension becomes rock hard.
I've rung four garages and had seperate answers ranging from spheres are knackered, the middle sphere was not replaced, its the ECU as its a hydractive suspension or its the height adjuster bar??

Also the system stays firm when the ignition is off. Cant move the back end it stays rigid.

What's the concensus of opinion. What would happen if the non-hydractive sphers were fitted in error. is there a way to check on the speheres that are fitted which ones they are.

Unfortunatly I'm not mechanically minded so need to take it to a decent garage in the West Mids area, but dont want to pay to have four things replaced, when its probably/hopefully only one of them.

Sorry for all the questions and thanks to anyone who takes the time to respond. Cheers Dave :wink:
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Mandrake
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Re: Xantia Rear Suspension Bouncy - 97 td vsx hatchback

Post by Mandrake »

Wow, thats a confusing lot of contradictions and questions, but I'll give it a go.... :)
gadgetgricey wrote:Hi everyone, looking for a bit of advice/guidance if that's O.K.
Just bought a xantia and I think there is reduced pressure to the rear suspension. You can push the back of the car down with ease. The front of the car is fine.
Ok, first up, being able to push the rear of the car down by hand easily is normal.... :lol:

When spheres age they gradually lose their gas and the suspension becomes stiffer, not softer. If the spheres were old and stuffed the suspension would be stiff, and eventually become rigid...

So when you say the front of the car is "fine" do you mean it is stiff ? If it is, it's probably not fine... ;) (Although the front should feel approximately twice as stiff as the rear)
Checked the service history and both rear spheres were changed less than two years ago.
So chances are they're probably ok.
Also if you increase the ride height to the one above normal (not maximum) the rear suspension becomes rock hard.
That could just mean the manual height override linkage adjustment at the rear is a bit out. There is a kind of sliding clamp arrangement on the rod that travels along the underbody from the height control, which is set by losening the bolt, sliding the rod along a bit and tightening it again.

Normally you set it by having the height lever at the normal ride position, and the rear suspension sitting at the normal height - losen the clamp (NOT the rollbar clamp) slide it so the peg is in the middle of the elongated slot and tighten it again. Somewhere on the forum there are some diagrams of this. (Note: the rear of the car needs to be driven onto ramps to do this)
I've rung four garages and had seperate answers ranging from spheres are knackered, the middle sphere was not replaced, its the ECU as its a hydractive suspension or its the height adjuster bar??

Also the system stays firm when the ignition is off. Cant move the back end it stays rigid.
Well on a Hydractive 2 model such as yours there is a soft mode and a hard mode. The soft mode is the normal driving mode, while the hard mode is activated for a short time by the computer during vigorous cornering, accelerating or braking, to improve handling.

Because the soft mode requires significant power to energize the solenoids, 30 seconds after you turn off the key (or 10 minutes if you leave any doors open) the power to the solenoids is cut off and it reverts to hard mode.

Opening a door with the key off will energize the solenoids again for up to 10 minutes or until 30 seconds after the doors are closed again.

Hard mode is rather stiff, especially the damping, and if you just try to bounce the suspension by hand you'll find that the heavy damping prevents it from moving significantly, especially the front.

However if you sit on the back and get someone to measure the height drop (dont open the boot or it will go back to soft mode) you should find it will still go down a couple of inches. And when you get off it will slowly (1 - 2 seconds) return to the previous height. Thats how stiff the damping is in hard mode.

The hard mode is controlled only by the "corner" spheres, while the soft mode is a composite of the corner and centre spheres, but is affected most by the centre sphere.
What's the concensus of opinion. What would happen if the non-hydractive sphers were fitted in error.
If non-hydractive strut spheres were fitted in error, the soft mode would become much too soft to the point of floatiness, and the hard mode would be approximately as soft as the soft mode should be.
is there a way to check on the speheres that are fitted which ones they are.
Yep, find the code number printed on the sphere and post it here and several regulars to the forum have part number tables to look up the spheres...

There are usually two numbers - a two digit number stamped near the end filler plug which is the gas pressure in bars, and a longer number about 6 digits beginning with a 9 which is the part number for a genuine sphere, or a number starting with N for a GSF (Amtex?) sphere.

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
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Post by gadgetgricey »

Simon,

You are a star, thanks for such a detailed response.

The front does move. and has the resistance of normal suspension. The rear, if I had to take a guess, is about four times easier to move.

From what you have said, looks like it might be the wrong spheres + an issue with the height override linkage.

I'll try and have a look over the weekend at the codes on the spheres and post them here to see if anyone is able to advise.

Once again Thanks

Dave :lol:
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Post by RichardW »

"The front does move. and has the resistance of normal suspension. The rear, if I had to take a guess, is about four times easier to move. "

Remember a Xantia VSX is NOT a normal car! With the engine running both ends should have about 4 - 6" of silky soft movement and be very easy to push down - the car should literally float along. It sounds to me like your car is right at the REAR, but hard at the front. It rather sounds like the front hydractive sphere is flat.
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Post by gadgetgricey »

Hopefully its just me, when I'm driving the car its great for 98% of the time.I Just have this awareness that the back end "drops" more than I wound expect when drive away in first.

Also underbreaking it seems to rise more at the back end than I would expect. Its not a massive amount, but previously used to "normal" suspension, it just seemed odd.

Its also difficult to judge the amount as you are in the car. I've found myself next to glass bus shelters/shop windows and trying to watch the reflection as I drive off.

Its probably just me, I might be cheeky and go and have a test drive in a xantia that's for sale near to me. Just for comparison purposes. Obviously turn up in the wife's car, or it might look a bit suspicious.

Thanks both.
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Post by Mandrake »

gadgetgricey wrote:Hopefully its just me, when I'm driving the car its great for 98% of the time.I Just have this awareness that the back end "drops" more than I wound expect when drive away in first.
Yeah it's a little annoying, but unfortunately its perfectly normal. You can't have soft suspension and soft ride without the rear squatting under acceleration.

Even on my automatic anything more than about half throttle from a stationary start will pretty much bottom the rear suspension for a few seconds.

To work around that a bit the hydractive system actually switches to the hard mode when you accelerate quickly to minimize the effect of this, and the hydractive models also include modified rear bump stops which are more progressive than the usual limit stops, which prevent the squat from fully compressing the suspension and leave a bit of travel for bumps during hard acceleration.
Also underbreaking it seems to rise more at the back end than I would expect. Its not a massive amount, but previously used to "normal" suspension, it just seemed odd.
Ok well thats not right.... as it should not rise much under braking - this is an area where the Xantia should be better than the average car.... I find that most other (brands of) cars I've driven lift quite a bit at the rear under braking, but the Xantia doesn't.

The usual culprit is rear brakes which are not working as well as they should - either the rear brakes need bleeding (very common) or the pistons could be a bit stuck due to lack of use (the rear brakes dont do much work to "exercise" them) or the pads may not be great...

Try bleeding the rear brakes first (check elsewhere on the forum for the best way to do it as the procedure is different to normal brake systems) and if that doesn't help pop the rear pads out and check their surfaces, and work the pistons in and out a few times to free them up...

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
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