Xantia 1.9td (1998)
M.O.T is due in a few weeks and I noticed yesterday that both rubber boots, left and right hub ends, are split. I've had a look but can't seem to find any threads on procedure for doing this job, going to put a set of front pads in at the same time. If anyone can point me in the right direction and special tools required it would be appreciated, I've changed all the spheres and done the infamous clutch clip thanks to this site so should be able to tackle this job. Cheers Paul.
Changing xantia driveshaft gators?
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Paul -
Replacing driveshaft gaiters is a laughing easy job - if you love to get greasy black dirty hands 8)
You must remove the driveshafts from the hub. Then you can remove the CV joints and replace the gaiters.
To do this :
1) Drain gearoil from diff drain plug.
(if you dont - the gearoil will try fill your driveway when LHS driveshaft is removed - or slides out)
Remove center nuts from driveaxles (35mm socket - 3/4" 4drive - matching tommy bar)
2) Disassemble lower end of of the ARB link to allow for better space the driveshaft needs when removed from hub.
3) You must in some way allow for the hub to swing outwards to free the driveaxle. Your choices are to disassemble lower swivel joint - or free the lower end of the front strut from the hub clamp.
I alway choose the latter - as then I'm sure I dont damage the swivel joint (very easy to do
)
4) when hub is free to angle out - then tap out the CV joint from hub.
5) clean the CV joint and old gaiter well - then prise back the old gaiter - when retaining clip is removed.
6) now the greasy CV joint is open. Angle it to access the inner part of the cage - on which you give one single smart blow outwards away from the diff - while you hold back the drive axle againts the diff. Then complete CV joint will part the axle.
7) remove old gaiter & clean well the axle. Insert new gaiter. Top up with CV joint grease (supplied with kit) into the new gaiter - and reverse this description.
Notes :
Its imperative your wheelarches are clean & dry to prevent dirt falling down into your open CV joints during work
The LHS drive axle complete may easily be witdrawn from the diff.
The RHS cannot do so - as it is retained by the special L-bolts - and the friction of the aux bearing on the engine block.
Despite this rather bothersome job - do NOT be tempted to use split gaiters
Stock 2Liters of fresh gearoil - and a new diff plug seal (alu) - before you start on the job.
Be sure you have an extra supply of CV joint grease - and new gaiter clips. Both items should come with the gaiter kit - check it.
Insert half the grease into each new gaiter when fitted on axle. The gaiters are not intended to be packed fully with grease.
During work on the LHS gaiter - you may have noticed a single larger bolt on end of gearbox housing. This is the filler & level plug. Clean well the bolt surroundings then remove the bolt - which is a plug with washer (19mm socket). Then inject the 2L gearoil here - using whatever smart setup of some PVC hosing from the bottle. Continue until most of the 2L oild is injected - then th oil should slowly start flowing out again - telling you the correct level is reached.
There is an alternative way of filling in the gearoil : you can remove the reverse lights switch - or the plastic breather plug - from top of the gearbox housing - and then inject the oil here.
Its up to you what fits your spine and selection of tools/materials.
The level is still checked by the flow from housing plug.
REMEMBER to refit the diff plug before filling oil on the gearbox (even old farts like me forgets these simple things
)
Replacing driveshaft gaiters is a laughing easy job - if you love to get greasy black dirty hands 8)
You must remove the driveshafts from the hub. Then you can remove the CV joints and replace the gaiters.
To do this :
1) Drain gearoil from diff drain plug.
(if you dont - the gearoil will try fill your driveway when LHS driveshaft is removed - or slides out)
Remove center nuts from driveaxles (35mm socket - 3/4" 4drive - matching tommy bar)
2) Disassemble lower end of of the ARB link to allow for better space the driveshaft needs when removed from hub.
3) You must in some way allow for the hub to swing outwards to free the driveaxle. Your choices are to disassemble lower swivel joint - or free the lower end of the front strut from the hub clamp.
I alway choose the latter - as then I'm sure I dont damage the swivel joint (very easy to do
)4) when hub is free to angle out - then tap out the CV joint from hub.
5) clean the CV joint and old gaiter well - then prise back the old gaiter - when retaining clip is removed.
6) now the greasy CV joint is open. Angle it to access the inner part of the cage - on which you give one single smart blow outwards away from the diff - while you hold back the drive axle againts the diff. Then complete CV joint will part the axle.
7) remove old gaiter & clean well the axle. Insert new gaiter. Top up with CV joint grease (supplied with kit) into the new gaiter - and reverse this description.
Notes :
Its imperative your wheelarches are clean & dry to prevent dirt falling down into your open CV joints during work
The LHS drive axle complete may easily be witdrawn from the diff.
The RHS cannot do so - as it is retained by the special L-bolts - and the friction of the aux bearing on the engine block.
Despite this rather bothersome job - do NOT be tempted to use split gaiters
Stock 2Liters of fresh gearoil - and a new diff plug seal (alu) - before you start on the job.
Be sure you have an extra supply of CV joint grease - and new gaiter clips. Both items should come with the gaiter kit - check it.
Insert half the grease into each new gaiter when fitted on axle. The gaiters are not intended to be packed fully with grease.
During work on the LHS gaiter - you may have noticed a single larger bolt on end of gearbox housing. This is the filler & level plug. Clean well the bolt surroundings then remove the bolt - which is a plug with washer (19mm socket). Then inject the 2L gearoil here - using whatever smart setup of some PVC hosing from the bottle. Continue until most of the 2L oild is injected - then th oil should slowly start flowing out again - telling you the correct level is reached.
There is an alternative way of filling in the gearoil : you can remove the reverse lights switch - or the plastic breather plug - from top of the gearbox housing - and then inject the oil here.
Its up to you what fits your spine and selection of tools/materials.
The level is still checked by the flow from housing plug.
REMEMBER to refit the diff plug before filling oil on the gearbox (even old farts like me forgets these simple things
)
Last edited by AndersDK on 25 Jun 2006, 10:26, edited 1 time in total.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
when removing the shaft from the diff there is no need to drain the diff at the drain plug,because the oil will run out from where the shaft goes and you normaly just loos 1lt of gear oil not 2,also you MUST NOT hit the cage which retains the ball bearings as this will split readily,you should tilt the joint over as far as it will go then hit the crown of the castleation,which is tight against the shaft,then on refitting you only need one sacha of grease,after all of this remove gear box plastic vent plug just beneeth the battery tray to put 1lt of oil back in
ps.
never hit the end of the thread of the cv joint without the nut wound ou a few threads
regards malcolm
ps.
never hit the end of the thread of the cv joint without the nut wound ou a few threads
regards malcolm
I tried a split gaiter once too, it lasted just long enough to drive the car to the MOT station then one end of it popped off as the tester was checking itreblack68 wrote:I tried to use split gaiters once. It was really frustrating because the split part gave no trouble but the gaiter was too short to allow the joint to bend.
Yes - the fluid will flow out.xantia_v6 wrote:Does anyone know if transmission fluid is lost when the driveshafts are pulled from a 4HP20 auto transmission?
There are 2 drain plugs - one on the autobox sump and one on the diff. Remove the one from the diff and note when the oil finishes flowing out. Measure the amount drained - as that would be the amount to refill.
Note : the gearbox is not completely drained this way. Its only some 3Liters maximum that drains out if both drain plugs are removed.
To be failsafe - never re-use drained oil. The autobox is a nasty money eater if failure occurs
Follow the procedures in your owners handbook for checking/topping up the fluid level. If I understand correctly, topping up can only be done by the air vent plug removal method.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image