Xantia Front Handbrake Cables

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49er_Jerry
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Xantia Front Handbrake Cables

Post by 49er_Jerry »

The nearside handbrake cable snapped a couple of days ago. From advice in the archive I bought a pair of cables. I was planning to do the replacement this evening, but my jack won't lift the car high enough.

Question. Is the replacement straight forward, or should I get my local garage with a ramp to fit them? I have access to a larger jack and axle stands.


Any tips would be appreciated.
bxbodger
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Post by bxbodger »

It should be straightforward but you have to get well under the middle of the car, so don't rely on the jack alone- ramps are best for this job, drive up, set suspension on high, put axle stands under the back and then lower the suspension for safety.

The ramps will give you enough height at the front and the stands will hold the back up.

If you don't have ramps use axle stands to raise whichever side of the car needs doing.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

If you are not familiar with driving your car onto DIY service ramps :
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=4323

I must say I dont like it anyway - I always jack up the car then lower the front wheels down onto the ramps. But then again years ago I had an accident where the ramps tilted because I hitted the end stops too fast driving up. Suddenly the car's sills were resting on the ramps. Not a pretty sight :cry:
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davethewheel
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Post by davethewheel »

last time i did that job i just did one side at a time on axle stands, i don't care to much for ramps i've also had a bad experince using them.
49er_Jerry
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Post by 49er_Jerry »

So, as I understand it, it is better to lift one side of the car at a time (front and back) rather than the front only.

Would I be advised to get some ramps rather than the axle stands? I'm not sure where the axle stands should be located. All the strong points on the underside of the car appear to be flat, rather than round and fitting snugly in the stands.
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Post by dnsey »

Your axle stands should be secure if the're properly located.
The jack only need to be adequate to reach the first 'hole' on the stand. You can then use the stand to support the car, place a large, strong wooden block under or over the jack (according to type), and raise it to the next hole. Repeat as required!
DON'T use blocks under the stands, though, or the jack as the only support when you're under the car (it can remain in place as a safety backup, but ensure that the full load is on the stand).
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Post by andycarter »

I'm going to do this job at the weekend.

After reading the above advice I'm curious what the best sequence is when using ramps, as presumably you need to have the wheels off at some point to connect the caliper end of each cable.
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Post by lexi »

This is the problem with ramps........ok for checking quick stuff or working on anything except brakes CV joints etc. Cant beat a big trolley jack and good serious axle stands.
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andycarter
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Post by andycarter »

Having just finished the job, here is my experiences:

- Forget using ramps. You really need to access both ends of the cable at the same time which means wheels off.

- Removed the engine undertray and the fasteners from the front section of exhaust heatshield. The heatshield won't move very much.

- The tip I read on here about wedging the heatshield out of the way with a block of wood worked well, but it is impossible to see how the cables attach to the compensator. For info the compensator is located at the very front of the tunnel on one side.

- To remove the cables from the compensator it is necessary to have plenty of slack on the inner cable. Using a small torch and one of the wife's make-up mirrors you can just about see inside the compensator mechanism. Pull the outer cable from the compensator leaving just the inner cable still attached, then poke a finger into the hole in the side of the compensator and press the inner cable down (lower cable) or upwards if you're doing the upper cable. The inner cable then pulls out too.

- Reattaching new cables is fairly easy, just shove the inner in first followed by the outer and pull tight to check they have engaged. Check with the mirror to make sure.

- As others have said: carefully study the route of the old cables before you pull them out, each cable passes through 4 eyelets.
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