I've now got all the bits fitted to my car. (Hdi 110). I had to buy the extra (red) brake switch, the nylon clip which holds it in place (very important, I thought it would be supplied with the switch-it wasn't And of course the steering column mounted switch.
The job took about an hour, working slowly and carefully. I used a continuity tester to ensure the brake switch operated as soon as the pedal was slighly depressed. The wiring and plug for it is already there. Also, the steering column switch just plugs into place after first cutting the shroud, again, helpfully marked with the bit to be removed.
Now, all I have to do is get the RVV setting changed in the ECU, and it's going to be done at one of our local dealers this Monday. I'll report back if its a success. Also, if anyone is interested I can supply a list of the part numbers needed.
C5 Cruise control DIY
Moderator: RichardW
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I have a C5 with cruise control which isn't working. It hasn't worked since I got the car 2 weeks ago.
Looks like your info could point me in the direction of finding out what is wrong with it.
Cheers, Kev
Looks like your info could point me in the direction of finding out what is wrong with it.
Cheers, Kev
Cheers, Kev
02 plate C5 2.2 Hdi Exclusive SE (now 170k miles 03/21).
Used to have:- Xantia 1.9 TurboD SX. 1996 Blue & 1998 Silver Activa. + 1992 BX TZD Turbo.
02 plate C5 2.2 Hdi Exclusive SE (now 170k miles 03/21).
Used to have:- Xantia 1.9 TurboD SX. 1996 Blue & 1998 Silver Activa. + 1992 BX TZD Turbo.
I drove the car into my local dealer yesterday. 20 minutes later, and for the princely sum of £23.50 in labour, I drove out again with a perfectly functioning cruise control. I'm well pleased, the whole thing has only set me back about 70 quid.
Just as well since cambelt/front pulley renewal is due in a few months!!!
Just as well since cambelt/front pulley renewal is due in a few months!!!
The Xantia cruise control is susceptible to corrosion of the metal contacts in the brake pedal.
If you take the pedal rubber off then flick off the top of the pedal (2 springs pop out) you can then see 3 thin contacts on thin pieces of metal.
If you flick the metal bits you can see where they make contact.
Clean the conections with a bit of emery clotch and re-assemble. Did my Xantia a few weeks back. Worked for a while but it's now packed up again!
I assume the longer term solution is to replace the switch. Not sure what the cost is but i've got a heater matrix to do which is a little more important!
If you take the pedal rubber off then flick off the top of the pedal (2 springs pop out) you can then see 3 thin contacts on thin pieces of metal.
If you flick the metal bits you can see where they make contact.
Clean the conections with a bit of emery clotch and re-assemble. Did my Xantia a few weeks back. Worked for a while but it's now packed up again!
I assume the longer term solution is to replace the switch. Not sure what the cost is but i've got a heater matrix to do which is a little more important!
1983 2CV6 Charleston 110k (Re-build in op!)
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
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