Sometimes my wiper will not re-start if it parks in a certain position. I have to stop, get out and pull on the arm, then away it goes again.
A previous posting brought the response that it was inevitably a bad connection.
I have tried to get the wiper arms off so that I can remove the plastic scuttle cover which is glued to the bottom of the screen, tp get to the motor and cables, but I cannot shift the arms. So far I have applied penetrating oil, blowlamp, unbelieveabl leverage (on the glass behind), angry taps with hammer on nut screwewd onto shaft
Anyone know the secret please?
98Xantia Wiper intermitent, arms stuck
Moderator: RichardW
Stupid question no.1.
You have folded up the bottom end of the wiper arm and removed the spindle nut, havn't you?
The splined socket at the bottom of the wiper arm that fits over the splined spindle is slightly conical, so with lots of penetrating oil, you should be able to "rock" it off the spindle.
Your problem doesn't have to be poor contacts (even if it is a Citroën!) I've had trouble with the spindle shafts rusting up and providing an uneccessary load for the motor - funny they usually work better when its raining!
//NiSk
You have folded up the bottom end of the wiper arm and removed the spindle nut, havn't you?
The splined socket at the bottom of the wiper arm that fits over the splined spindle is slightly conical, so with lots of penetrating oil, you should be able to "rock" it off the spindle.
Your problem doesn't have to be poor contacts (even if it is a Citroën!) I've had trouble with the spindle shafts rusting up and providing an uneccessary load for the motor - funny they usually work better when its raining!
//NiSk
'85 BX 16TRS, '91 XM injection 241,000 km (company car), '93 XM TD12 (515,000 km), '98 XM 2.5TD Break (320,000 km)
There ya go! I just knew there had to be a tool for the job. Looks lovely!
I had a ball joint splitter in mind but his looks like the real thing.
If it stops raining at all tomorrow I will give it one last chance to co-operate . I~ have used an open ended spanner under the arm as a lever but to no avail. (Even my largest screwdriver is fa too thin)
I fear it has grown together. Unfortunately the arn is probably made from a relative of Mazack ie zinc and floor sweepings alloy and has "Grown" on to the steel shaft. Being of different materials there will always be elecrolysis and I know the splines are very fine thus the surface area in contact is maximised and also the corrrosion potential due to electrloysis.
I m might try some coca ccola or other acid on the joint first. Anyone know what dissolves zinc oxide??
If all else fails I will buy the tool.
I had a ball joint splitter in mind but his looks like the real thing.
If it stops raining at all tomorrow I will give it one last chance to co-operate . I~ have used an open ended spanner under the arm as a lever but to no avail. (Even my largest screwdriver is fa too thin)
I fear it has grown together. Unfortunately the arn is probably made from a relative of Mazack ie zinc and floor sweepings alloy and has "Grown" on to the steel shaft. Being of different materials there will always be elecrolysis and I know the splines are very fine thus the surface area in contact is maximised and also the corrrosion potential due to electrloysis.
I m might try some coca ccola or other acid on the joint first. Anyone know what dissolves zinc oxide??
If all else fails I will buy the tool.
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Thanks guys
Well I did manage to get the arms off eventually (By rocking with a large leverage) and cut the scuttle cover off and was amazed to find no drainage arrangement for the scuttle area, still it wasnt full of water (just mud and leaves) so I guess there is a drain hole somewhare that I couldn't find.
When I got the wiper/subframe assy out and checked the connectors, to my disappointment they were perfect as, new, (so were the connections on the housing itself) so i gave them a shot of electrolube and re-assembeld. The arm and link pivots and plastic bushes all looked in good nick, so I gave them a drop of WD40. Now I have to look elsewhere for the problem.
Is there a relay involved in the wiper operation? If so is it on the fuse panel or adjacent under the right side lower dash/knee panel?
Note: must remember to seal the scuttle cover back on to the w/screen when its all dry again.
Well I did manage to get the arms off eventually (By rocking with a large leverage) and cut the scuttle cover off and was amazed to find no drainage arrangement for the scuttle area, still it wasnt full of water (just mud and leaves) so I guess there is a drain hole somewhare that I couldn't find.
When I got the wiper/subframe assy out and checked the connectors, to my disappointment they were perfect as, new, (so were the connections on the housing itself) so i gave them a shot of electrolube and re-assembeld. The arm and link pivots and plastic bushes all looked in good nick, so I gave them a drop of WD40. Now I have to look elsewhere for the problem.
Is there a relay involved in the wiper operation? If so is it on the fuse panel or adjacent under the right side lower dash/knee panel?
Note: must remember to seal the scuttle cover back on to the w/screen when its all dry again.
You might also be suffering from wear inside the actual wiper motor. The wiper on one of my XM's wouldn't park at all - it just stopped where you turned it off. I opened up the wiper motor gearbox and discovered that ther had been poor contact between the wiper arms and the circuit tracks stuck to the side of the nylon gear wheel. this had cuased heat, which made the tracks sink into the nylon! so ther was no or poor contact i various places.
I repaired it with some strips of copper that i araldited to the gear wheel and it held for a year or so. I then got hold of a complete wiper assembly incl. internal arms, joint etc. for only £20, so I replaced the lot.
If your game, you can try checking out the wiper motor gearbox contacts.
//NiSk
I repaired it with some strips of copper that i araldited to the gear wheel and it held for a year or so. I then got hold of a complete wiper assembly incl. internal arms, joint etc. for only £20, so I replaced the lot.
If your game, you can try checking out the wiper motor gearbox contacts.
//NiSk
'85 BX 16TRS, '91 XM injection 241,000 km (company car), '93 XM TD12 (515,000 km), '98 XM 2.5TD Break (320,000 km)