No Blower, No Aircon

Gregg1100 · Unread post by **Gregg1100** » 14 May 2006, 16:22

Hello All,
I was trying to check out no blower fault this morning. The fact that the air con seems dead as well--no sound from aircon clutch kicking in-no nothing. I got as far as pulling a plug from heater motor. When I checked to see if any current from Red and Black wires, test light worked. So perhaps current going to motor. There were two more wires in this block---an orange one and a white one. The heavy Black one had burn marks on plug.
I have no manual for this Series 2 Xantia, so I was wondering if there was an inline fuse kicking around. I am looking at the fact that it seems odd that both fan and aircon are as dead as a dodo.
ALL fuses have been double checked--the lot by the drivers right knee, and the ones in the engine bay by the LHM res.
This is son`s car, and he wants the blower going and the air con. I personally wouldn`t bother with the aircon. Consign the lot of it to a skip.
I am going to have to get car to an auto electrician, as I am no good with electrics. I have no trouble with the mechanical side.
Trouble with electricity, you can`t see the pigging stuff coming

.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg

Clogzz · Unread post by **Clogzz** » 15 May 2006, 12:40

Hi Greg,

Some 1999 Mk II’s have the relay modification, others don’t.

The air conditioning won’t work unless the blower spins.
That’s to prevent the evaporator from frosting up when no ‘cold’ is being taken off it.

The test lamp will light even if the ‘switch fault’ is there, when the plug is disconnected from the blower.
The relay modification actually still uses the ‘faulty’ switch contact for the low current to operate the modification relay, and also the rear demister timer.
The faulty switch contact will therefore also light the test lamp because the lamp current is relatively low.
Since the lamp lights, it means that you have no blown fuse, not even the ‘in-line’ one, if fitted.

The thin orange and white wires are the blower speed control, and are not an area of problems.
The blackened thick black wire terminal is the likely cause of the problem.
A good clean and scrape may sort it.
If not, the overheating of the terminal may have caused the wire to melt inside the blower.
To check on that, poke the lamp wires into the backs of the thick red and black plug terminals, with the plug connected to the blower; with the engine running and the blower set to some speed setting.
If the lamp lights bright, there’s no supply voltage fault, and the blower motor is open.

If you have a multimeter, you can check for continuity between the blower pins where the 2 thick wires go.
You could also check the motor with a torch lamp and battery, but as you write that electrics aren’t your favourite, I’d better not put you off with more complications yet.

I can easily understand that you would turf the air conditioner in the bin.
When I used to live there, there was no thought of air conditioning.
The main concern was a good heater.
Best of luck, and keep us posted.

Regards,
Terry.

Gregg1100 · Unread post by **Gregg1100** » 15 May 2006, 21:10

Hi Terry,
Thanks for your reply. I wii have a go at what you said, if it ever stops raining. I will post results.
Greg

stevenlizuk · Unread post by **stevenlizuk** » 16 May 2006, 01:32

Hi Gregg,
Your blower motor problem might be the main feed to the ignition switch (rotted through under the bonnet) or the ignition switch.

If you look at the three multi-plugs coming from the ignition barrel one will be brown.
With the car running and the blower turned on, short out the brown plug on the car side of the circuit. If the blower motor starts running then the ignition switch has burnt out.
If there is no power to this plug then the main feed to it has possibly rotted through under the bonnet.
The best place to start looking is the big bundle of cables that run along the front of the car under the radiator inside a plastic protector (water gatherer).
Cheers
Steve

Unread post by **alan s** » 16 May 2006, 02:58

Mine did exactly the same thing but I was recently in this car when the thermometer outside was showing 50 degrees, so with us it was a necessity not a luxury.

Here's a link to the permanent cure.

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=17322

Alan S

Gregg1100 · Unread post by **Gregg1100** » 20 May 2006, 23:49

Hi Terry,
I took heater motor out of car. I put it on bench and hooked up a battery charger to it. After chasing motor all over shed, I realise it was working ok. I re-fitted it to car, cleaned up the burnt Black wire terminal--and Hey Pesto--it worked. so did the air con. YIPPEE
Thanks for your help,
Greg

Clogzz · Unread post by **Clogzz** » 21 May 2006, 11:09

Hi Greg,

And congratulations for a keen motor hopping all around the shed.
It's very nice to read about another good outcome.

$\:D/$

Regards,
Terry.

Gregg1100 · Unread post by **Gregg1100** » 22 May 2006, 19:43

Hi Terry,
Maybe I spoke too soon. Cars heater motor working well till Sunday(21 st ). Went out tonight, started car up, turned on fan, and zilch. Cleaned up the burnt black lead on 4 pin terminal to heater. Started engine again, still no fan. Restarted engine again. Away it went. Swine of a thing

. Will check it again tomorrow eve, if still intermittent, it must be that pigging ign switch.
Greg

Clogzz · Unread post by **Clogzz** » 23 May 2006, 12:01

Hi Greg,

And yes, that’s got the switch feel about it.

When my switch went, turning the key always cured it for a short while.
To confirm that, you could stick the lamp into the backs of the two thick wire terminals at the motor plug, and let the lamp dangle.
If the lamp goes out at the same time as the fan motor stops, then it’s loss of voltage to the motor, caused by the switch.
If the lamp stays on when the motor has stopped running, then the fault is inside the motor, hopefully worn brushes, though that’s rare.

You’ve got my best wishes, because I know how infuriating it is, especially because this fault is the consequence of penny splitting.

Regards,
Terry.